Milled head = re-degree cam?

BIG_FAT_LOSER

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Is it necessary to re-degree an overhead cam when the head has been milled? I put a rebuilt head on when I reassembled my 22r. (old one was a waste) It was milled, or surfaced, but unsure of how much. Did not ask when I purchased it, was more concerned with getting it running again since its my daily driver. Just curious, because milling / surfacing the head shortens the chain slightly.


Thanks

If your gunna go.........go Ghetto...
 

jeff

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Pat,

I'd say yes. If you've swapped heads and are unsure of whether or not the cam is properly degreed it's in your best interest to make sure it's checked out. A few degrees - (negative cam advance) is quite a bit of lost power in a 22R - and it costs almost nothing to regain it. If I remember correctly when I built mine the best advice I got was 2 to 3* degrees of cam advance. If it's off you'll have to fix it and without an adjustable timing set that can be a bitch. When the 22R head is milled, decked, shaved, whatever you want to call it, you generally lose cam advance from ZERO. A retarded cam, is well, retarded.

Assuming you are NOT running an adjustable timing gear setup you'll have to slightly oval out the stock mounting holes to allow for some adjustability - if you are gonna go, go ghetto right? If the head has been milled you should have checked the clearances first. Assuming everything clears you'll at the very least have some cam advance to fix.

You could also go FULL GHETTO and just bolt it all together and run it for now and do things right later on down the road. Perhaps on the side of the road. In the middle of nowhere.

Aloha
 

BIG_FAT_LOSER

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Thanks for confirming my suspitions, I did rotate the motor prior to installing the motor and checked for vavle clearance with clay since I installed a higher lift cam.

I guess I need to make a call to L.C

Thanks, again

If your gunna go.........go Ghetto...
 
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