Moving from MN Tundra to CA Desert. Cooling tips?

MNGSX

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The cooling system of my 80 series landcruiser will be backflushed, filled with flush and water, ran.. drained etc.. basically cleaned very well and refilled. I may also find a higher pressure cap.

In the long term I really want to seriously upgrade its ability to keep cool.
So I think I want to add a high quality oil cooler with its own fan, upgrade the radiator and install hood vents. The fan clutch will get some TLC. A forged motor with an intercooled turbo will be going in.. I know it wont be legal in any class but it will be a really fast fun rig that can prerun and still waltz thru the rubicon. If I race I will find a salvage title 100 series and follow the rule book.
 

scottm

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I recommend you don't use cooling system flush. It uses organic acids to dissolve deposits, but it is very hard to get the acid out. The kits include a neutralizer, but it doesnt work very well. I used Prestone flush in my RV and followed the directions exactly. Then I put in new coolant and distilled water. I worked at a engine coolant testing lab at the time, so I tested a sample of the new coolant after a road test. Its pH was very low, meaning it was acidic - very bad. I had to change the coolant twice before ph was back to normal for healthy green coolant. If your system is running hot, take the rad out and have it cleaned at a rad shop.
 

MNGSX

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It does not run not now.. Atleast not in MN. I have used flush systems before usually on vehicles I got used from someone else. I was deployed last year and my wife did not get it done and the truck probably needed it when I got it in 2007. On most vehicles I flush in the spring and do a few drains and refills over the summer. In the summer months I either run a lower % of coolant to water or just distilled water and water wetter. By the time fall rolls around I doubt the PH is still off. The Ducati gets redline WW once it warms up and runs on PG antifreeze at the begining and end of the riding season.
 
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