My 69 f100

69F100

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Hey guys, I have always dreamed of a class 8 or prerunner truck and now it's time! I have had this f100 for a couple of years and the original plan was to make it a short bed and hot rod it at the track... only because I moved to Oregon and I didn't see a use for a class 8 or prerunner.

Well I grew tired of compromising and here I go! I bought f350 beams with the 1 inch king pins and I plan to fab my own stuff. I will be sending my beams to AutoFab for their bending and alignment. Then I'll make my own beam extensions, shock hoops, cage etc..

BUT hey I don't know everything or anything so please please give me pointers or tips. My plans are to use it in the dunes and in the desert of eastern Oregon. Until I find a money tree NORA is only a dream.

THANKS!
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69F100

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Also not sure if I will run a sterling 10.5 or Dana 60 for a rear end. Since my f350 beams are 8/6.5 lug I want to keep it all the same. I have heard of a conversion back to 5 lug for the beams but it's $$
 

Bert is my name

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Wheel selection for 8 on 6.5 is not that great. But not that big of an issue. The sterling axles have an 8 on 170mm layout. Not the same so the drive flanges will require redrilling to 8 on 6.5. The hubs on a sterling are larger than a Dana 60 so they will need to be machined or wheel center opened up. If staying 8 lug I would run a Dana or g.m. 14b. Many more options for gearing and traction aids for these axles. I've also seen Ford 9 in with Dana outers grafted on. But for ultimate strength for cheap run a 14b.
 

Bert is my name

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Sandy cone used to make the conversion hubs. 14 bolt can be converted with machine work. Dana's do not have the room to fit 5 lug patterns.
 

69F100

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Wheel selection for 8 on 6.5 is not that great. But not that big of an issue. The sterling axles have an 8 on 170mm layout. Not the same so the drive flanges will require redrilling to 8 on 6.5. The hubs on a sterling are larger than a Dana 60 so they will need to be machined or wheel center opened up. If staying 8 lug I would run a Dana or g.m. 14b. Many more options for gearing and traction aids for these axles. I've also seen Ford 9 in with Dana outers grafted on. But for ultimate strength for cheap run a 14b.

Thanks! I have a 14 bolt in the back yard lol. It's in a wrecked 05 chev 2500 dirty max. I wasn't going to run it because I heard they are heavier and low ground clearance. But that works! You guys know what works lol
 

Bert is my name

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The rock donkeys "shave" the 14b. Google search it. Gains a couple inches of ground clearance. Tools required. Cutoff wheel. Torch to preheat housing welder with enough punch to glue it all together. Combine that with a truss and you get a strong axle for low cash. Cant remember the build thread but one of the guys here has a thorough buildup of his class 8 and discusses his modifications to the 14b in detail.
 

Bert is my name

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Yes they are heavier. Not always a bad thing. The extra weight comes from thick axle tubes. The added weight will help with traction too.
 

Bert is my name

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The newer 14b are different than the old ones. Not necessarily a bad thing. Something to be aware of as you collect parts.
 

69F100

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Thanks for all this info.. I'm glad to hear it, I want this thing done right at the end of the day. I'm going to look into sandy cone hubs. That would make this way easier as well, that way I can build up my 9 inch
 

Bert is my name

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If it still has the f.e. engine don't get rid of it. Aluminum heads and intake will get you a big block with close to small block weight. Put a c6 or th 400 behind it. Big truck like that needs torque.
 

Bert is my name

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The 14b is a better axle to build for that truck. The larger ring gear is not only stronger but it applies more leverage to the tires. The cone hubs are not as easy to come by as they once were. John at autofab is the guy to talk to if you want them. They are not cheap. You could buy coil overs for the front and rear for the cost of those hubs. The 8 lug stuff is plenty strong for a play truck. Spend the money to sort out the steering problems you will face after lifting the truck. Doesn't take much lift to make it scary at highway speeds. I have a 68 that is dangerous at high speeds after lifting it. The drivers side tie rod is way too short and causes all kinds of bump steer.
 

69F100

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Yea so my buddy is a f100 lover too and is selling me his built c6 and yes it's got the 390 in it. I love that engine, it has big port big valve heads, performer intake (soon performer rpm) cam and 650 carb. I'm going to build these heads because they make lots of power and I'm considering doing the fitech fuel injection kit.
I talked to John before, he recommended the f350 beams to me when I was on the hunt for camper special beams (same I know) and he informed me about the tie rod. I'm going to extend one until I either learn how to make swing set or buy theirs lol

Im glad there are fellow f100 lovers here.
 

69F100

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Oh also I'm keeping my 8 lug pattern, it's not worth the money to do the 5 lug
 

Bert is my name

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Buy John's. There is not really a good way to extend the short link. Look in the junk yards for beams. They are out there. Find an alignment shop in your are that has the tools to cold bend the beams. That is how Ford aligned these trucks. There are a couple shops in my area that have the tools to do it. Ask them specifically if they can cold bend the beams. If they don't know what you mean than they don't have the tools. Old school mom and pop alignment shops will be your best bet. John will get the beams bent to his specs. But they need to be done on the vehicle to account for variations in frames. Remember these are 50 year old trucks. They aren't as straight as you think.
 

Bert is my name

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Buy John's. There is not really a good way to extend the short link. Look in the junk yards for beams. They are out there. Find an alignment shop in your are that has the tools to cold bend the beams. That is how Ford aligned these trucks. There are a couple shops in my area that have the tools to do it. Ask them specifically if they can cold bend the beams. If they don't know what you mean than they don't have the tools. Old school mom and pop alignment shops will be your best bet. John will get the beams bent to his specs. But they need to be done on the vehicle to account for variations in frames. Remember these are 50 year old trucks. They aren't as straight as you think.
 

69F100

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Buy John's. There is not really a good way to extend the short link. Look in the junk yards for beams. They are out there. Find an alignment shop in your are that has the tools to cold bend the beams. That is how Ford aligned these trucks. There are a couple shops in my area that have the tools to do it. Ask them specifically if they can cold bend the beams. If they don't know what you mean than they don't have the tools. Old school mom and pop alignment shops will be your best bet. John will get the beams bent to his specs. But they need to be done on the vehicle to account for variations in frames. Remember these are 50 year old trucks. They aren't as straight as you think.

I have f350 front suspension already and I'm probably going to have John do the work.
 
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