need help with a L.S.D.

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hey, I was wondering if anyone has used a detroit true trac or an auburn limited slip as I am considering putting one in the ass end of my '88 k-5 blazer. corp. 10 bolt 28 spline axles, 4.10 ratio. I expect to use it light/moderate off-road, light towing (open utility trailer, probably less than 1500 pounds loaded) mostly sand in glamis and ocotillo, along with mixed terrain for getting me to the pits and chasing at the races. I'm just looking for advice and past experiences you guys may have. again not for hard use. "33 mud terrains with a 2.5 inch lift. thanks everybody!

lock-right may also be an option, but not sure if I want to deal with some of the probs. associated with it. so far I've learned to drive well with an open diff. going places I didn't think I could go with careful throttle control.
 

F1shifty

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i have a truetrac in the front end of my f-150. i dont do any hardcore stuff just dunes and a few local hills. ive had mine for almost 3 years, street driven. my only complaint is for the d44 it doesnt keep the c-clips. which obviousy can cause issues. im sure this isnt the same for other applications. but as far as the functionallity of it has never let me down. i havent been stuck since besides when i woke up to my friend having my truck stuck for me with a broken axle shaft. i do have a detroit locker in the back, and honestly its pretty streetable in my opinion as long as your not in the pedal hard around a corner. but the locker isnt that bad.
 

partybarge_pilot

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Truetrack all the way, the Auburns like to burn up the cones on things with a lot of torque, weight and large tires.
 

Triaged

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While putting in whatever diff you choose get it in 30-spline and some 30-spline axles to go with.
 

Chris_Wilson

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I've used a Trutrac in the front of my bronco (with a rear spool) for years. Never an issue with the trutrac, provides nice high speed characteristics in both 2wd and 4wd (hubs locked in both cases). Had an Auburn Pro in the back of a Ranger and it never broke but it did not limit slip as well as new after a year or so. Have an Eaton LSD in the back of a Mustang Cobra and it works real well on the street. In the rear, for a truck used offroad, there is no substitute for a fully locked diff such as a Detriot, ARB, spool, etc. Avoid the Lock-Right and similar designs, especially in a full size or anything with oversized tires or anything with power. I broke many of those in a stock motor Ranger with 33's. And ditto the advice to upgrade your 28 spline axles at the same time.
 
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hey thanks for your help guys, but here is where my ignorance will really show. A couple of you have suggested I upgrade to 30-spline axles, and I'm wondering what all would need to be changed. can I keep my existing ring & pinion? (it's almost brand new!) what about bearings/seals and such? just want to know what i'm up against. I know chevy started using 30-splines in '89-'90 so parts wont be hard to find. (hell no I'm not using stock parts, I just know they were originally available!) I'm guessing I will just need the new shafts/locker. carrier will be replaced with locker, if I remember correctly.

thanks again
 

Triaged

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GM has made a few upgrades over the years. Yes 89'ish is when they went to 30-spline. In 99'ish they upped the carrier bearing size and started calling it a 8.6 (even though it uses the same 8.5" ring and pinion). Some of the newer diff's use the larger ID carrier bearings but there are bearings that will match up the new large carrier with the small bore housing. So it might just be diff & shafts or it could be diff, carrier bearings, and shafts.
 
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