Ok... so if I raise the upper shock mount 2 inches i can either gain compression at the expense of droop and keep the 6 inch coilovers.
Or I can swap in 8 inch and the wheel compression location will stay the same as it is now but i will gain droop and NEED to go with a 930 or 934 inner cv.
best idea for the time involved is see how close I can get to the what ever that sits above the sheet metal and run an 8 inch shock and maximize stuff (the fiberglass and 35’s allow a lot more than can be currently attained)
If I can get The upper shock mount raised 4 inches, then the cvs will be good the tie rod end will be geometrically happy.... etc.
Im going to throw the Bajakits set up on there as JT made me a good deal and the repairs from the other stuff was just really expensive.
Initially this move the upper shock mount idea was just to gain compression travel at the same ride height, and two inches was my goal. But if i can gain 30% travel etc....
I wonder how high I can raise that shock mount before I need to consider a over the engine and triangulated to the firewall shock tower to shock tower brace? Any one wanna chime in on that one?
How far is it from the top of the shock tower to the frame? This number plus the amount you are raising it will tell you how much extra leverage you are going to have.
One issue you may not have though of yet, just going straight up with it will change the effective angle of the shock. It needs to move in also to keep your geometry the same. Then if your bumping farther up, what does that do to your shock angle at full bump?
Yea my plan was to follow the angle the shock mount is currently at.
I was going to make a jig that mounted to the lower control arm shock mount, and then had a plate with the three shock mount studs that are at the top. Making it “x” inches taller. So then I could make the correct shaped spacer.
But i haven’t thought of what the shock angle will be at full bump..
Not my truck. I was looking for the angle of the byoass bracket. And what would need to be modified to it. It uses the mounting holes at the top to locate it.
But yea. I’ll need to see if the spring etc will have adequate space at droop...
The baja kits use a 6 inch coilover with a 1/2 inch droop spacer. Limiting it to around 5.4-5.6 depending on stuff.
The bypass is an 8 inch bypass and it appears the max compression location is the same between the coilover and the bypass.
So the bypass sacrifices 2.4- 2.5 inches of droop travel.
this was one of my reasons for trying to sort measurement of different lifts of that upper coilover mount... 2 vs max inches...
I think if I lift that mount 2 inchesand run an 8 inch coil, I can get the full droop of both shocks only with a new inner cv.
If I lift the upper coil mount 2 inches and run a 6 inch bypass, then
That BP looks like the piston is sitting above the lower comp tube at ride height. Not really getting all the use it should, a single tube would work just as well at that point. I would say stick with the same length shocks whatever way you end up going. And make sure that you are using all the travel of those shock so you are actually getting the full benefit of the BP shock. Even with an 8" shock, 2 comp tubes is kinda useless. Not enough room to make use of multiple zones effectively. You will be going from the ride zone directly to the bump zone if you want it to work well.
Yep. Exactly why I’m trying to change things a bit. The pic above is how baja kits sells it.
I’m trying to figure out how hard it will be and if it’s worth it to maximize it. So a 6 inch coilover and a 6 inch bypass.... or an 8 inch coilover and 8 inch bypass (the 8 inch will take moving both upper mounts)