Opinions on Chevy Kits

TDORSloppy

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For the past couple months, I've been looking around the net for Chevy Kits. I have seen a lot of them but I haven't talked to anyone with experience with the different companies. My one friend has a Cali Supertrucks upper arm and spindle kit on his C1500. He says the upper bumpstop sits on the frame, giving it a kinda rough ride. I also seen a S-10 with the same problem. Is it because the wrong spring is in there? Does having upper and lowers solve this problem? I've seen that Camburg and H&M make kits. Does anyone have experience with them?

One other problem I've seen is those cast lift spindle breaking at the wheel bearings. I know that they all look the same but are there different manufactures? I mean are the Chassis Tech, Fabtech the same as the Bullseyes?
 

desertracer

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I have the fabtech long travel kit on my truck and it is ok. It has the uppers and lowers. The problem I am having is that my upper arm is slamming down onto my coil bucket. I am pretty sure the spring is to stiff and the shock to soft. Fabtech wants to fix it for me so in the coming weeks I may take it to them and have it looked at. I have heard a lot about the cst kit and all I have heard is that it is great. Good luck in your search.
 

John Bitting

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What year are we talking about.. One thing to save your upper ball joints is a limiting strap off the lower arm to the coil bucket. This will stop the lower arm just before the upper arm slams the coil bucket.. The problem is springs are too long. Get a 1" lower coil and the ride would be awesome..
 

Marshall

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I had a friend come to me with his fabtech kit, everytime he would go over even a speed bump the upper would slam the spring bucket and the tire would come off the ground. The local tire shop who had installed the kit put the balljoint on the wrong side of thre arm. We fixed that and put limit straps and it rides good (better than stock anyway). Just something to be aware of. Marshall
 

Mike_HKmtrsprts

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On Steves Tahoe we ran a 4" spindle with a 3" spring out of a standard cab short bed it gives about 6" of lift and a plush ride and plenty of droop so the arm doesnt bang on the coil bucket causing the mounts to rip off the frame.
 

desertracer

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John,
The next step I was going to take is adding a limit strap like you suggested. What about cutting some of the coil out a little at a time and trying it out? Am I asking for more problems if I start doing this? I don't really need the spring for lift since I have the lift spindle. Thanks for the help.
 

Ryno

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I only know about the CST kit. It's better than fabcrap by far, H&M is very similar, and have yet to see a Camburg Chevy. My friend has eibach coils in his 96, with the CST kit, and he has SAW 2.5's. Truck rides a little rough on the street, but does very nice @ Ocotillo through just about everything. He has an ext cab shortbed, 350. a 4.10 gear with do wonders for them as well...without killing the mileage.

Ryno

Build it like a Rhino, and Leave it be.
 

John Bitting

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Springs are cheap. I would just buy another set. Once you heat and cut a coil it is ruined and will always sag on you. So once your alignment is decent, it will settle again and then it will be off. I would just get a new coil, If you have an extra cab get a standard cab, if you have a standard cab v-8 get the v-6 coil. It will make a world of difference.

A man is not finished when he is defeated,
he is finished when he quits.
-- Richard M. Nixon
 

Donahoe

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First you need to remove the grill... Then place it on a Ford... Done... Its that easy...

NEVER LIFT!!!!!
 

Donahoe

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Or run an RCD kit. BEST FOR CHEVYS. Next Cal supertrucks. Next Fabtech.

NEVER LIFT!!!!!
 

Mike_HKmtrsprts

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I would go old school stock upper arm with a ball joint spacer...OH YEAH.
 

John Bitting

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How about dual rancho 9000's on the upper arm cranked to #3 to "slow" it down....

A man is not finished when he is defeated,
he is finished when he quits.
-- Richard M. Nixon
 

Waldo

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Would that be the old bolt on ball joint spacers or the turkey I failed spelling welded homemade ones? I prefer the latter.

BRAAAAAAAAP!
 

Ryno

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Kreg-

Oh Dear...where do I start. I'll deal with the easy stuff first. =) RCD has major driveline angle problems with the Chevys. They, like Fabcrap are good at powdercoating and making all the parts look pretty with those spiffy chrome stabilizer bars. I dunno, maybe they own part of Moog and get a kick back for every ball joint and tie rod end sold under a chevy part #.

Then there is my Boat anchor (Ford) issue. =) I will give them that they do make it easy to modify the truck for long travel. They also built (past tense), one of the best rear ends ever made. Now lets go to Power. Does anybody with a Old 30's or 40's Ford run a Ford motor? Very few? Why? Chevy-more power/ dollar, ease of installment, modification, etc. I can damn near guarantee you that if Chevy puts some $$$$ in the pot, You're gonna see alot more of the ol' Bowtie. Ragland has always been Chevy...How many times has he won the 1k?

Ryno

PS-I thought you were a Dodge fan? By the way...does anyone race those anymore? =) All this is in jest, not trying to dig on anyone...just trying to clarify =)

Build it like a Rhino, and Leave it be.
 

heavy8

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I have worked with both 73-88 and 88-up long travel kits. Both CST and Fabtech kits (the arms) will fit in the same jig. Problems with these kits are not the arms. (they both seem to be very strong) With the coils provided there is to much lift. To align it to factory spec's with that much lift to many shims are required, or on the newer chevys the alignment cams must be adjusted out to far. This makes the upper control arm hit the coil bucket/frame at full droop. With stock length springs the upper control arm is closer to being level with the ground pushing the top of the tire out, thus requiring less shims. (bringing the bump stop in were it will rest against the frame , not the a arm). I would purchase the control arms only (either brand) and run one 2.5 shock. Start out with the stock springs and go from there. The lower stance will help out all the steering components and make it handle much better in the dirt. As far as the spindles are I would wait and see if you need them. If your running glass fenders you shouldnt. Also as others mentioned limit straps are great but i would fix the source of the problem first.
hope this helps, I learned it the hard way..


What spell check
 

Mike_HKmtrsprts

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If you have worked with long travel kits as much as me and Steve have then you known that those two kits will NOT fit in the same jig. Fabtechs kit only cycles 9" the CST kit gets a true 12", fabtechs kit rubs the front bumper with 33's if you dont trim it the CST will clear the bumper just fine without trimming it, the CST arms are also about a 1/2 wider per side that fabtech.
 

heavy8

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Thats weird because I have both brads of arms for my early chevy and they are the exact same. The Fabtech arms are almost 3 years old and the CST arms are 2 years old. Has CST or Fabtech Made any changes since they were introduced ?
 
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