Overheating???

Sean

Well-Known Member
The last few days it has been hot i've noticed that my truck (01 4.3 S-10 auto) seems to run a little hot. I'll be driving the freeway just going along at 65-70mph with the AC on low and the temp is right dead in the middle, but in the am when i'm coming into work its just a below the middle by a few clicks. I don't hear the clutch fan coming on anything really change from this. Is there anything i should have looked at before my warranty is up? Any idea's about this or is it just normal?

Thanks Sean
 

tkr

Well-Known Member
The halfway point on your guage should be about 210 degrees. At that temp the fan clutch should be starting to engage. If it gets over 210 and doesn't engage, it should be replaced. But if its running at or below the halfway point, the dealer's probably going to tell you there's nothing wrong with it.
Two easy things I'd check:
1. Pressure test the radiator cap. It should hold 15 lbs of pressure. They only seem to last about a year.
2. Look inside the radiator and recovery jar for buid up from that Dex-Cool crap antifreeze. It can restrict the flow in your radiator quite a bit.
 

michael_loomis

Well-Known Member
what ever you take care of it soon !!

ive been fighting the same nagging overheating problem in my 97 sonono (4.3)

the build up that tkr is talking about got REALLY bad and i think its finally 86ed my radiator. anyways i'm in the middle of pulling the heads off right now cause i got it warm 1 too many times ! (its not fun either might i mention !)

thought i smoked a head gasket , but it appears the valve got stuck in the guide hit the piston and bent slighty , not allowing it to close completely . i didnt float the valve , and it wasant over 190 at the time , but lately ive been getting the flashing check engine light deal that everyone was talking about earlier. travis mentioned the dealer said his moms valve springs were worn. i thought to myself they were insane , but maybe this is the cause also , who knows.

not tryin to jack the thread ... but this and the fuel mileage thread all tie in together , atleast in my case , cause i had both happen in the last few months before it ate the exhaust valve.
 

Sean

Well-Known Member
Whats the problem that dex col causes? Should i have my entire cooling system Flushed?, if so what kind of coolant would be the best to use?
 

tkr

Well-Known Member
The Dex-Cool reacts with the plastic....if I remember right....in your intake manifold and radiator and forms a semi-solid residue. Why GM hasn't been sued for this yet, I have no idea. They sell it as "long life coolant", but after 30,000 or 40,000 miles, the radiator is usually 40-50% restricted with this crap. We've drained and flushed many systems, including some of our own, and put in good old fashioned green antifreeze with no problems. I've read some studies that say its not a good idea. Supposedly mixing the two causes other problems, but we've never seen any.
Anyway, if there's any sings of this "schmeg" in your radiator or recovery jar....you'll know it as soon as you see it....take the radiator out and have it disassembed and cleaned, remove the recovery jar and clean it out, and flush the rest of the system as much as possible.
 

Sean

Well-Known Member
I guess i'll be taking my truck to the dealer on Saturday to have the cooling system checked out before my warranty is up.
 

Kritter

Krittro Campbell
Water and water wetter...change it every 6 months...It will run cool!
 

tkr

Well-Known Member
with the engine cold, remove the radiator cap yourself and look at the underside of the cap and inside the radiator....you may have to suck out a little coolant to see. That way you know first hand what's there before you take it in.
 

Mintychip

Well-Known Member
My 94 s10 4.3 was overheating constantly with the AC on. I took it to the local radiator shop and they informed me that mine had the wrong radiator in it, the one meant for the 4 cylinder. He had the right one for it in his shop and now it won't rise above about 190 degrees with or without AC.
 

ntsqd

Well-Known Member
No replacement for good maint. but if you use distilled water (not just "drinking water") from the grocery store you can go a lot longer than 6 months.
I would add some water pump lubricant too though. Don't recall if Water Wetter does much for the seals in the pump which the lubricant will help.
 

toolex

Well-Known Member
I had a similar problem with my truck, however i dont believe it had anything to do with my radiator. it seemed to be running too hot for a while. In time i realized that my front cover somehow gave way and water got into the block
so im guessing my timing chain was runbbing against the cover and it began to leak, maybe the answer to my over heating problems. just a thought.
 

ntsqd

Well-Known Member
22R/22RE driver, eh ?

If the chain is hitting the timing cover you have a broken chain guide somewhere. Get one of the metal backed guide & chain kits out there. The dealer part may not be one of those.
 

toolex

Well-Known Member
haha, yes a 22re indeed. the truck actually didn't belong to me at the time, so it wasn't taken care of properly. so a $70 fix turned into a $1,620 rebuild
 

1992f150

Well-Known Member
the timing chain is a problem for some of those engines. According to a toyota mechanic, it happens when people don't change their oil enough, causing the chain to stretch. Then it starts to slap into the guides, which are plastic and break.
 

ntsqd

Well-Known Member
Knowledge gained from two yota specific off road listsover the last ~5 years is that past 120k and you are on borrowed time with a 22R/RE timing chain, no matter how well maintained. I know some have gone much further than that. For every one of those I'll bet I can dig up 3or 4 that failed near 120k. Those are interference engines, break the chain and it gets spendy fast.
 

1992f150

Well-Known Member
yes our 86 4runner with a 22re still had the original chain/guides at 235k miles, but we took good care of it.
 
whatever you do, dont put green coolant in it untill After your warranty expires. if you take out the dex cool your cooling system warranty will be void. but get that crap out as soon as you can after 36000. its total junk. run green coolant, water pump lube and distilled water. 210 is the normal temp to run at when its hot with the ac on. but it should never go over 230, thats when the fan clutch should be at 100% lock up.
 

michael_loomis

Well-Known Member
hey matt .... i just finished putting some new heads on my 97 sonono 4.3 . my thermo stat runs at like 160ish if i just cruise ... if i push it it jumps to 210 real fast or if im on the freeway it'll be at 160 then when i get off it immediately runs up in temp. i just put a new water pump . i say the radiator is plugged , do you agree ?

also what is a rough estimate on head bolt torque specs , since i sure as hell wasnt gonna by a degree angle indicator or whatever you need to do it factory style lol.
 
it runs at 160??? what thermostat did you put in it???? it should have a 195 t-stat. radiator could be plugged from what you are describing, or you might still have some air pockets in the system. either way, 160 is to cold, that is almost cold enough to keep it out of closed loop. i dont know those torque specs off hand but ill check at work tomorrow and let ya know.
 
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