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Paper or Foam Filters

Just picked up my first sand car, primarily cruise in Ocotillo/Superstition or Gordons Well... Car has LS1 and I noticed the K&N filter needs replacing.... Curious as to what y'all think is superior, paper filter elements or foam with pre-filters??? I don't have room for a canister filter due to 8 into 1 exhaust, wing and paneling around engine... Thanks in advance.
 

Ty Owings

Well-Known Member
There's no possibility for a canister? Not even the small ones? We had the K&N and switched to a smaller off-road swap meet canister filters. We love them and they really helped everything breathe cleaner. We just had a simple 90 bend then a T to 2 k&n's and we cleaned them every trip. Now we ran the canisters up and over the engine with a nice 45 cut so they merge with the best possible flow. Way better and the car isn't getting dirty air.
 

Ty Owings

Well-Known Member
There's no possibility for a canister? Not even the small ones? We had the K&N and switched to a smaller off-road swap meet canister filters. We love them and they really helped everything breathe cleaner. We just had a simple 90 bend then a T to 2 k&n's and we cleaned them every trip. Now we ran the canisters up and over the engine with a nice 45 cut so they merge with the best possible flow. Way better and the car isn't getting dirty air.
By the way we have a similar setup and we go to ocotillo all the time. Even just from casual trips you wouldn't believe how dirty everything is lol.
 

jon coleman

Well-Known Member
i was told all things being equall, a paper wix- fram flow better than k&n, until it gets dirty, , thats when a k&n keeps flowing/ working better than a paper one ,me, a paper with a oiled up foam rap for Glammis;)
 
Thanks Gents! I wound up buying a new K&N and a R2C paper element... I'll figure out which one I prefer and keep the other in the trailer as a spare. 'Preciate the input!
 

JWHracing

Active Member
most of the guys on glamisdunes.com hate the R2C filters. A lot of them were finding sand in their intakes from them.

I run a CBM filter in a UMP canister on my baja. I run an outerwear on the inlet to the UMP. My new buggy has a K&N with a prefilter. My quad has a K&N. I clean my filters every trip and oil them with K&N oil. A prefilter is a must in my opinion if it is in an open environment.
 

partybarge_pilot

Well-Known Member
i was told all things being equall, a paper wix- fram flow better than k&n, until it gets dirty, , thats when a k&n keeps flowing/ working better than a paper one ,me, a paper with a oiled up foam rap for Glammis;)
K&N's never work better at filtering. They do flow more, but they let a **** load of dirt through. I would never consider using one where you will be seeing any dust.
 

jon coleman

Well-Known Member
yup, i always used k&n, twin air, ect, mainly used the grease on my dirt bike, on the sealing flange & in side of air box, if real dusty i would throw on a shear stocking w a pull string to get a quick clean in the middle of no were, also seal Everything w silicone/ rtv & good clamps/ springs,ive had my share of ' cool filter set up' rattle loose, bet rDc has some good air filter horror $torys😬
 

jon coleman

Well-Known Member
whAat?, me?, never, and i never lit off a stainless braided flex brake line ( bad to ground rear end to frame that way),, then have brake fluid feed the flame, or have an errant glob of rtv light off on top of header pipe running up new eng( scarred the Sheeet outta me...but the best is a buddy welding up cracked out put slip yoke seal area on an ax 15 jeep speed, after cleaning area Really good w brake cleaner, trans was empty, drain plug off, fumes mixed to perfect rocket fuel ratio, as soon as arc from tig was struck,.... guesse what?, woooooSSSh!!! about a 10 foot blast out the rear of trans
 
whAat?, me?, never, and i never lit off a stainless braided flex brake line ( bad to ground rear end to frame that way),, then have brake fluid feed the flame, or have an errant glob of rtv light off on top of header pipe running up new eng( scarred the Sheeet outta me...but the best is a buddy welding up cracked out put slip yoke seal area on an ax 15 jeep speed, after cleaning area Really good w brake cleaner, trans was empty, drain plug off, fumes mixed to perfect rocket fuel ratio, as soon as arc from tig was struck,.... guesse what?, woooooSSSh!!! about a 10 foot blast out the rear of trans
Rad... that’s “experience” right there... when I was a kid, I wanted to see what would happen if I boiled gasoline in a lead kettle with a mapp gas torch... lost some eyebrows and half of my hair that day.... live and learn I guess....
 

Slippery P

Well-Known Member
Thanks Gents! I wound up buying a new K&N and a R2C paper element... I'll figure out which one I prefer and keep the other in the trailer as a spare. 'Preciate the input!
R2c’s are an engine builders best friend!
K&Ns will always let just a little bit of super fine particulate through there is no way around that, the R2C on the other hand once it gets even the slightest bit dirty the pleats tear in the creases. Typically at a glance you won’t even notice the tear or holes that are there so people knock, or blow the dirt off them (which is the worst thing you could do) and reinstall them and they will literally let sand in the engine it’s even worse with a turbo sucking air through it. People never believe me when I tell them their Free R2C filter is the reason they are rebuilding their engine after one trip to the dunes until I have them look at the filter with a flash light stuffed inside it.
 

BajaTriumph

Member
In heavy Baja silt, I have always run an K&N oiled filter, with a lightly oiled UNI foam hand-made to wrap K&N, then with a fine element dry PreFilter sock pulled over. Rarely has the K&N gotten dirty. Just swap PreFilter, if UNI foam dirty, swap that. Never had to remove K&N in a pit stop. I have run 3stage set-up in open and canister with same results
 
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