I wasn't trying to mean, just messing around. I'm not going to make fun of your truck becuase its stock. You are smart and know that Chevy's can't handle the dirt so why waste your money fixing it up?! lol I think I'd better stop know 'cause I've already done enough damage....
After my experience with trying to pre-run chevy's with kits, it does not seem to work very well. I know that I have a Fabtech LT kit on my truck and the CST kit is much better but it just has no suspension control. It is either full bottomed out on the coil bucket or fully compressed, nothing in between. The geometry of the arms are all wierd as it cycles. Just a lot of problems. At times I wish I got a ford f 150. But this is what I got so I have to make due. Just be smart when trying to turn a stock chevy into a pre-runner and be ready to spend $ to make it work good.
wow, so chevs not so good for prerunning. i was interested in full size 73-87. thought 2x might be better then 4x4 straight axle. you guys tell me. with the aftermarket that is available and not going custom fab what would work better: a 2wd with a fabtech type kit or a 4x4 with a set of deavers or nationals. once again 73-87 full size.
Ollie Penchansky has a nice 2wd that is in that year range. You can see pics of it under on Prerunners.com under the sand blast event. I think either way you build it you will have fun. 4wd will take you anywhere though and you can just cruise.
I have a 85 full size chevy and have experience with getting a bolt on kit to work good. I started with the fabtech long travel kit with dual shock tower, the springs that come with it are to high spring rate and the shocks didnt control rebound at all. At this point it did work at high speed though.
After trying many spring and shock combinations I found that a set of new stock springs with a single 2.5dia bypass shock worked best for me. Also the lowered ride height over the lifted springs corrected the geometry and now the ball joints don't bind and the idler arm last longer. With glass fenders I run 35" tires with no problems. I go most anywhere in this truck and get there pretty fast to. To me the 2wd drive is just fun to drive...
Hope this helps,
I was out at the Baja Havasu race this weekend and there was a fullsize early 80's (I think with an updated 90's front clip) 2wd Blazer out there (no rear shell) that was pretty darn stock and it worked pretty darn good. The truck was ultra simple and it went against what just about everyone on this board thinks is the right way to do something. The front was stock-ish arms with dual 2.0 shocks running off the upper arm to a hoop. The rear was leaf springs with a bypass running to a rear cage. This truck made it through 4 heats and a bunch of practice sessions. The only problem appeared to be a driverside front wheel bearing... which was fixed before it broke. I don't know if "Mo" got any video of this thing in action but for the $$$ spent it would whoop most of what I've seen running around OC and the IE lately. The wheel travel was minimal and the expense to build it was even less. It was catching 2-4 feet of air every lap at least twice and it just sucked it up without a problem. It motored through the whoops and never got out of shape - no kicks from the rear and the front amazingly enough withstood the abuse. He even stuffed it into the face of a big roller and dug up a huge chunk of earth - and kept motoring without a problem.
My point is don't let others force you into building something just because they think it's the right way to do it. For $5000 bucks you could duplicate what this guy did and kick the crap out of most of what you see running around town.