Pics ofSpindle pre-welding, 1 steering ? (toy)

geoff

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heres the toyota spindle i was working on which used a stock spindle converted to lift spindle using a uniball. The upper is a vertical heim, which may soon be replaced by a uniball, but at this point i just want to get the truck running, if it breaks, i wont be in a race so i dont care. i need to get to work on the cage...


the holes are there to fill with filler rod, makes the gusset *really* stuck on =)


that little square piece is not the final one used, just a piece of scrap i put there momentarily




everyoen strongly recommended that i gusset the lower arm, where the torsion mounts to. as a result the best thing i could come up with was the stock arm. I cut it up and welded it to the arm.



Now to the steering. Never really dealt with bumpstter before, just now. Anyway, how do you set it up, perfectly flat on the arm surface, or in line with the joints? It will be a misalignment 5/8" heim with a 1/2" bolt in double shear and a 5/8" normal heim with a 5/8" bolt in single shear on the stock metal thing


here is straight up and down



here is a pic on the same angle as the joints









"We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dreams." -- Willy Wonka
 

BIG_FAT_LOSER

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I may be wrong on this but, I beleive the lower pivot (balljoint) and the outer tie rod need to be on the same pivot axis, You raised the lower ball joint, and the outer tie rod needs to be raised the same ammount...?????? Dunno. Only cuz the chaos one raises both??

Yea, It can jump. No you cannot have a ride.
 

geoff

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yeah i was gonna raise it thats what that 1" piece was for, i just couldnt figure out if i needed to raise it on an angle or not. I measured the distance between the lower ball joint and the tie rod normally and ill keep the distance the same on here

"We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dreams." -- Willy Wonka
 

geoff

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i get 40 degrees of movement from this uniball..

40 degrees on a 17" long arm will only give me 10.9" of travel. This is nothing to brag about... i may be cutting it all up and ending up with something like this, which still looks like its based on the stock spindle.... this project may never end. i really need a new hobby! lol




"We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dreams." -- Willy Wonka
 

Kritter

Krittro Campbell
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Re: answered my own question

Making both upper and lower parallel and then the tierod parallel with that is a good start....actually the easiest to explain without drawings.

Kris
"Buy American before it's too late..."
 

geoff

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Re: answered my own question

right, but do you know if the location of the tierod mount (length of tierod, indirectly) would affect bumpsteer? If i am on the right track, it wont affect it, the only that affects it is the point where the tie rod mounts to the steering link. As long as this is inline with the pivot of the lower control arm and the upper control arm im thinking there shouldnt be any bumpsteer... or anymore than stock rather

"We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dreams." -- Willy Wonka
 

Kritter

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Re: answered my own question

Yes it does affect it. Download a bumpsteer calculator and you can figure out what it will do once you put in all your dimensions.

Kris
"Buy American before it's too late..."
 

ACID_RAIN28

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Re: answered my own question

The word around the water cooler these days is about 60% of the length between the upper and lower pivot work best. I like 50 havent had a chance to test the 60 yet. try this. Take the mesurement of the of the stock setup, how high it is on the spindle mounting plane, and give the new set up the same ratio. The tie rod needs to be in line with the mounts, or you will have bumpsteer.

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