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Pioneer 72 F250 build

Bert is my name

Well-Known Member
The f.e. series engines all shared the same basic block with a few exceptions. Like the 427 side oiler, s.o.h.c. , and industrial applications. Trucks and passenger cars all used the same basic block with different crank and piston combinations to achieve varying displacement and power levels. 500 horsepower is easily achieved with a pump gas build. There are quite a few f.e. builds in the 700 plus horsepower range naturally aspirated on race gas. One of the features of these engines is shaft mounted rocker arms which add stability to the valve train at higher r.p.m. without the need of high dollar valve train components. I'm not trying to steer the o.p. in one direction or another. But the ability to get large displacement in an engine package that is only slightly larger and heavier than a small block was appealing to me for my truck. Check out survival motorsports and the f.e. power forum. They can better explain this than I can.
 
The f.e. series engines all shared the same basic block with a few exceptions. Like the 427 side oiler, s.o.h.c. , and industrial applications. Trucks and passenger cars all used the same basic block with different crank and piston combinations to achieve varying displacement and power levels. 500 horsepower is easily achieved with a pump gas build. There are quite a few f.e. builds in the 700 plus horsepower range naturally aspirated on race gas. One of the features of these engines is shaft mounted rocker arms which add stability to the valve train at higher r.p.m. without the need of high dollar valve train components. I'm not trying to steer the o.p. in one direction or another. But the ability to get large displacement in an engine package that is only slightly larger and heavier than a small block was appealing to me for my truck. Check out survival motorsports and the f.e. power forum. They can better explain this than I can.
I’m gunna crawl around in there too in just a bit. I like the idea of being able to utilize the block I already have, a dollar saved is a dollar I can spend on something else for the truck! Come New Year’s Day I think I’ll start the tear down process, I mainly want to pull the truck back out of the weeds again, kick the pack rat out of his house in the engine bay and start the drive train removal process/ or start stripping the interior, I’ve definitely taken notes from the Piggott kids build.
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
Try to break it down into parts of the project small enough to start and finish in a few days. Its pretty easy to get bogged down w nothing actually finished. Also FE engines just look cool !
 

Bro_Gill

Well-Known Member
Send Lantana Bob a PM. He can tell you what power to expect from just about any Ford motor combo. He can lead you in the right direction for the truck block build.
 
43mod good advice, lord knows the willing helpful hands of my 2 year old and 4 year old will eventually show up to “help speed things up” but hey that’s what it’s all about!

I’ll do that Bro_Gill, I know I definitely want it to scoot along relatively effortlessly! Nothin like an old rig that has some get up and go!
 

Bert is my name

Well-Known Member
Greg at total performance in santee did the machine work for my build. I originally thought I had a 390. When I tore the block down I discovered that I had 428 crank in my block. I had originally planned on building a stroker windsor. But when I saw what I had I decided to go ahead and build my engine. There are some simple oil system modifications that dont really cost anything other than time. They are well documented online. I performed the modifications myself prior to sending my block to the machine shop. I also saved some money by thoroughly cleaning my block at home and assembling the engine myself. I used edelbrock heads and dual plane intake. An elgin cam with 110 degrees of lobe separation and 214/224 degrees of duration. Holley 750 vacuum secondary carb. Zero decked the block. Compression is at 10 to 1.
38 degrees total timing. This combination has turned two drive shafts into pretzels. It runs on cheap gas. With a little more cam duration and tighter lobe separation I think this combination would scream. If had had more money to put into this thing I would also have bought Doug thorley headers with the crossover pipes. I'm about 7500 dollars into this engine. I drove it daily for a while and it was civilized enough for the street but, had more than enough go to be scary at times. People claim that the f.e. series of engines are expensive to build. I have found that they are on par with building any other small block and are slightly less expensive than building other big block and significantly less expensive than building a large cubic inch small block.
 
Well Shoot Bert I’ll have to explore that more once I get that motor out and see what I’m working with once I get it stripped down, for $7,500 that performance is kinda hard to beat. I wonder how the rear ending would hold up to that? For the trans I kinda liking the idea of a c6 with a manual throttle body but again I’m always open to suggestions and ideas. I’ve got time to work all this out, but I like getting a general idea of what I think I want to put into this thing as time goes by.
 

Bert is my name

Well-Known Member
A properly built c6 will have no problems holding up to it. I have a dana 60 rear. But a well built 9 inch will handle it too. If staying close to the original design of the truck is something you are interested in, this engine and your drive drive train ideas will work well for you. A.f.r. released a set of heads that flow more air right about the time I was finishing this engine. If was to build another one I would seriously consider using those instead.
 

Bert is my name

Well-Known Member
There is a company building adapters to use g.m. transmissions as well. Cant remember the name, but the kit runs about 700 bucks.
 
Nice! I like the idea of being able to use what I already have. If my end goal is to be able to race it at Norra in the legend class then I also want to build it to where it’s a strong and reliable as that class allows. So when it comes the drivetrain and suspension I’m also fine running what is the max tolerance for that class. When it comes to old cars I’m definitely a ford guy, I think I die little every time I see a classic ford with LS swap haha happy new year!
 

jon coleman

Well-Known Member
Ford, what other40+year old truck can u buy stock, & with Very little money, it Will finish the norra 1k?, im gonna build a dodge some day, but i wish i was doing an f100 shortbed;)
 
Alright so tear down has officially started. True to form my planned time to work on it got cut in half and a simple task took waaay longer than it should have, but the bench seat is out and what was left of the floor board matting is out. It’s the first time I’ve actually really looked it over and she’s actually in pretty good shape!
 

Attachments

Bert is my name

Well-Known Member
Looks like there's some cancer under those sill plates. But overall not too bad. I would wire wheel the floor and spray some rust converter on it. Cut out the cancer and weld in new steel before removing the cab. Also check the mounts at the core support. Mine rusted away. They can be fixed with the cab in place. Overall looks pretty solid.
 

Bert is my name

Well-Known Member
Axle maybe. Beams not too sure. I would be looking for king pin beams first. The lug pattern on that axle might need to be changed. I think it has 8 on 170mm. Not 8 on 6.5 inches like the older stuff.
 

Bro_Gill

Well-Known Member
I didn't think they went metric until the next body style. And those beams are probably ball joint instead of king pin. You want king pin.
 

TaylorAnderson31

Well-Known Member
another good thread, unless I missed someone posting it, is the original Beer Hauler thread here on RDC. Thats what got me hooked, and eventually I bought the truck..Norra is a blast, but get to work, daylight is burning. For both of us.
 
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