Pro Stock build thoughts

Bricoop

Well-Known Member
Gents. as usual I have overloaded my axx w my mouth. I sold my RZR and picked up a 19 xx to be a twin sister pre runner. Looking to head to Baja the 14th-15th for some fun. I will do the speed clutch mod ,install radio,gps,intercom,roof,33" tires, and a light bar when I should be sleeping between working and doing all the interior tinwork on the race car. My question is shocks and springs. I just sent an email to shock therapy to see if they have an exchange set ready to go. I doubt they have time for me to ship mine back and forth. Does anybody know the factory spring rates on the stock shocks ? I have a full set from the race car I could play with if it would be a quick help. I don't feel like beating the rear diff up being too soft/overloaded w stuff.
The rears are definitely too soft. I looked around but couldn't find the exact rate on the stock.
If ST can't get to you in time, it looks like eibach offers new springs.

Also-consider putting a rubber mat underneath the rear diff.
 
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43mod

Well-Known Member
Todd at speed recommended Just put some more preload in it and take the crossover rain down a bit and go run some miles For the limited time I have it sound like the Way to go
 

Nessy

Well-Known Member
I like the stock rear setup tightened up a bit as it is super plush and really fun to drive. It will bottom on g outs but a little throttle tightens the suspension and helps quite a bit. I never tried it with a spare so I'm afraid you might really have to crank them. I ordered my ST spring kit for a 32 spare and another 40 lbs of tools but haven't been able to try it yet with the spare in, it definitely doesn't bottom though. I am currently having a flip up rack built that will hold the tire just above the bin so when it lowers it will keep everything inside. If you are carrying a lot of weight you may want to order the springs. You could probably have them in a few days.
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
Sounds good. I have been bleeding cash like a main artery is slashed so trying conserve a bit 😊. I am using the bed box from the race car and a couple of hinges to make a cargo box cover. A little sawzall work and it is a nice poor boy rig.
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Major headway on race rig interior tinwork today. Spent long day at Sarmento's perfomance. Me doing simple tasks and the owner Wade doing the smart guy stuff. Learned a lot today. 6 am start tomorrow.
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
Not a darn thing done other than make an axle nut / lug wrench over the last month. 2 trips to baja though 😊. Shop clean and ready to get back on it. Lil short legged stinker needed a seat mod to ride my childhood tractor. 3 generations

on it so far.
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
Finally back on it a bit. Switching from p stock to pro na has left me w a bunch of compromises in construction i dont like. The door bars being the biggest. At some point you just have to get over it and move on or cut out a s ton of work and start over. This is my compromise between the two. I may add another short 1.5 x .095 diagonal tube from the sq tube up to the bend point in door bar just to be sure to pass tech/ be safer. Window nets will still have a top rod and latch in case you cant swing the door open. Fire away w constructive criticism 😊.
 

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43mod

Well-Known Member
We trimmed a ton of weight to just make the sub 2000 pound regs. Main cage is 1.75x.095. Door bars 1.5 .095. Could have built main 1.5 but wanted a bit more strength. W factory door bars in place as well as 1.5 bars this thing is built like a brick s house.
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
Will be adding the forward diagonal. Spare tire mount close to done. have to decide just how low to hang them. I put some yellow tape on the bottom frame tube to make it easier to see. Tires will bolt onto mounts that will spin w ground contact. They will protrude about 6 inches behind rear bumper tube and absorb a little energy From those back marker TT and 10 cars 😱
 

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novaman64

Well-Known Member
Are you running the custom Pyrotect/SpeedSxS cellthat goes in the factory location, or mounting a fuel cell somewhere else?
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
Speed cell. Cell mounts easily enough. Seat mounts need to be pretty creative to get the seat as low as possible.
 

novaman64

Well-Known Member
Speed cell. Cell mounts easily enough. Seat mounts need to be pretty creative to get the seat as low as possible.
From seeing some pics of the cell, I was wondering how the passenger seat mounts, since it looks like the cell takes up majority of the floorboard.

Mint 400 released the rulebook, they dont have a pro stock class, but the Rally class (closes to a stock class) requires a fuel cell and aftermarket seats. Was looking at if I want to go with a suspension seat (something like a PRP) or a traditional racing seat with a hard pan (Corbeau, NRG or something similar). Looks like there are lots of opinions on which direction for dez racing.
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
Finally spent a full day on my build. Maybe not full day as there was plenty of puppy time. Where does your dog hang out while you weld ?
not a bolt left in it. I wish i could say all fab work was done but there are plenty of details to attend to. If i get it welded up and painted it can start going together.
 

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fastcash

Well-Known Member
Finally spent a full day on my build. Maybe not full day as there was plenty of puppy time. Where does your dog hang out while you weld ?
not a bolt left in it. I wish i could say all fab work was done but there are plenty of details to attend to. If i get it welded up and painted it can start going together.
43mod,
Make sure to spend a fair amount of time/steel of reinforcing the front subframe, Ours was definitely moving around and would
have been a major problem if left untouched.
Chris
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
All tabs are doubled. Do you suggest more mounting points to upper frame ? Appreciate the feedback. Now is the time !
 

fastcash

Well-Known Member
All tabs are doubled. Do you suggest more mounting points to upper frame ? Appreciate the feedback. Now is the time !
All tabs are doubled. Do you suggest more mounting points to upper frame ? Appreciate the feedback. Now is the time !
43mod,
We added two tabs (1 each side) between the lower subframe and the upper main frame, there are two threaded holes
in the lower subframe to bolt your new tabs to after welding the tabs in the very front of the upper frame.

We also added 4 new bolts at the rear mount for the lower subframe ( 2 on each side of the stock mount) into (thru) the
round main front tube in the area of where the main skid plate will mount. Our subframe was moving front to
back about 3/16ths of an inch.

Ck all the factory welds in the area, some of ours were poorly welded/cold/mis-aligned.

Good luck, Chris
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
I thought the key to unproductiveness was a 3 yo grandson,wrong its a 3 m old puppy. Finally have front firewall done. Changing the build from p stock to p na really left a lot of compromises that created a ton of work to close in nicely. Well as nicely as i can anyway ! It should make it super easy to work on at least. Almost all the interior panels are cut/ bent and need fit up and attachment. Changing that driveline flange should be pretty easy also 😊
 

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fastcash

Well-Known Member
I thought the key to unproductiveness was a 3 yo grandson,wrong its a 3 m old puppy. Finally have front firewall done. Changing the build from p stock to p na really left a lot of compromises that created a ton of work to close in nicely. Well as nicely as i can anyway ! It should make it super easy to work on at least. Almost all the interior panels are cut/ bent and need fit up and attachment. Changing that driveline flange should be pretty easy also 😊
43mod,
Car is looking good pal. Grandson and puppy are great attitude adjustment tools.
I'm glad you bought Dick's Speed 4 seater. I might have had to build both cars for him
to compare!!! We were almost together with our Norra XX car, now we have a little extra time (bummer),
but so do you, meet you with your car for the 1000 in Oct???
Chris
 

43mod

Well-Known Member
I still am unclear on the norra navigation program. I need to look in to it more. If it is 100 percent gps it would be great to run. If its a navigation test i will pass. I just dont have the people for that. So far w a TL i have a win,2nd and a DNF. Lots of fun for the cost
 

fastcash

Well-Known Member
I still am unclear on the norra navigation program. I need to look in to it more. If it is 100 percent gps it would be great to run. If its a navigation test i will pass. I just dont have the people for that. So far w a TL i have a win,2nd and a DNF. Lots of fun for the cost
43mod,
Gps + Lead Nav in your ear. Co-driver watches gps and road book, co-driver tells you the route (very easy)
and Lead Nav girl also gives you the route. Its very easy to get the hang of it after only a stage or two.
The navigation aspect increases the fun and safety of the race. Norra does a great job helping with
any questions you may have, and we would be there to help also.
Chris
 
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