Quick valving question

chatter_splatter

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Update:

Put the coilovers on with bypasses all the way open and tested. High speed was better, still harsh in the chop.

Pulled bypasses off, sloppy as a pig. But it handled the chop and medium hits without spiking.

This means the bypass is coming in too soon and the comp tube is all the way open so the single compression tube isn't flowing enough at high shaft speeds.

I probably just need another bypass tube, but I can try to lighten the compression valving in the bypass and see if I have enough bump zone left.

More to follow
 

brad inch

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is that really ride height?how much of the shock travel are you using?looks like you only have about 2 1/2 inches of travel before you hit the bump.maybe the wrong shock for you truck,or maybe just mounted wrong.
well good luck brad
 

chatter_splatter

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is that really ride height?how much of the shock travel are you using?look like you only have about 2 1/2 inches of travel before you hit the bump.maybe the wrong shock for you truck,
well good luck brad
The way I measured it, I have 3" of up travel with 2" of bump at the end of the stroke at 5" of ride height. With motion ratios this would mean about 5.4" of up travel and 3.6" of bump.

Seems mostly right to me, but I'm pretty new to this.
 

brad inch

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how much drop do you have from ride height?and overall shock and wheel travel do you have?
 

chatter_splatter

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I'm also playing around with the idea of welding a bypass loop on myself without an adjuster or check valve in it 2" above and below ride height. I wouldn't have any adjustability, but if I do pay fox to add a tube there it would probably stay open.
 

chatter_splatter

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how much drop do you have from ride height?and overall shock and wheel travel do you have?
I have 9" down and 9" up from ride height for 18" total. Motion ratio is a little over 1.8 to 1. Shocks are both 10" of travel. Trying to keep it as close to 50/50 as possible.
 

brad inch

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funny you say that,we welded a piece of gas line on to a kyb shock for a bypass worked great.around 1975.sounds good ,make sure you are using most of the bump
 

chevydude7

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I might be overlooking this, but I read that your tire pressure is at 30psi in the dirt. I think you will notice a world of difference in the chop dropping your PSI down to 15-20psi. No wonder your truck is feeling so rough and harsh lol.
 

chatter_splatter

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I might be overlooking this, but I read that your tire pressure is at 30psi in the dirt. I think you will notice a world of difference in the chop dropping your PSI down to 15-20psi. No wonder your truck is feeling so rough and harsh lol.
I've gone down to 25psi and lost a bead when running hard. If I'm cruising trails then I'm around 20-25 psi and it does help, but the issue I'm having seems more related to shock tuning. The truck just seems to have trouble with pot holes and cross ruts. It's fine with rock and edges most of the time, but rapid successive pot holes will upset the chassis and feel very harsh. Right now the coilovers have 70/45 (fox) in them and it feels close, but not quite there yet.
 

osidepunker

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I've gone down to 25psi and lost a bead when running hard. If I'm cruising trails then I'm around 20-25 psi and it does help, but the issue I'm having seems more related to shock tuning. The truck just seems to have trouble with pot holes and cross ruts. It's fine with rock and edges most of the time, but rapid successive pot holes will upset the chassis and feel very harsh. Right now the coilovers have 70/45 (fox) in them and it feels close, but not quite there yet.
what size?? I have 37x17 and I run 20 psi as an all around trail pressure. Only time I've lost a bead was when I flopped my truck on its side haha

In deep soft sand I'll do 16 psi without issue. Difficult rock crawling would be better at 16 psi also, but I never do enough of that to worry about airing down. 99% of the time I'm at 20psi in the dirt. On the street I do 36 front 32 rear
 

MTPyle

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I don't know what tires you guys are running but those pressures seem to be really low. Most people that race are in the upper 30's or mid 30's. The lowest I have heard is 28 psi and that was with inner liners.

We plan to do some more testing before LDC on pressures but there is absolutely no way we could run 20-25psi. What am I missing?

Maybe you guys with pre runners are just not abusing wheels and tires like we do with race trucks?

Mike
 

chatter_splatter

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what size?? I have 37x17 and I run 20 psi as an all around trail pressure. Only time I've lost a bead was when I flopped my truck on its side haha

In deep soft sand I'll do 16 psi without issue. Difficult rock crawling would be better at 16 psi also, but I never do enough of that to worry about airing down. 99% of the time I'm at 20psi in the dirt. On the street I do 36 front 32 rear
37x17 here too. I guess I'm thinking that it's cheaper to run a little more tire pressure then bend a rim haha. I do carry 2 spares so I could play around with less pressure and get home if I lose one. I'm just not sure it's a good idea with the type of terrain I'm running in. It's super rocky and sometimes I'll get up to 60-70 mph.
 

chatter_splatter

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I don't know what tires you guys are running but those pressures seem to be really low. Most people that race are in the upper 30's or mid 30's. The lowest I have heard is 28 psi and that was with inner liners.

We plan to do some more testing before LDC on pressures but there is absolutely no way we could run 20-25psi. What am I missing?

Maybe you guys with pre runners are just not abusing wheels and tires like we do with race trucks?

Mike
That's where I'm at. I try to stay at 30 because that's as low as I feel confident that I won't pinch a sidewall or lose a bead.
 
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