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Race cage for a X3

johndjmix

Well-Known Member
#1
Hey guys, I’m looking to do a cage on my 2 seat X3. Most likely it will never be raced (we race our trophylite) but If im doing a cage I might as well be sure it’s race legal. The most race action it would see most likely is NORRA.

A few questions.

I looked at the BITD and SCORE rule books, so I’m thinking 1.75 .120 DOM mig welded. Obviously a lot stronger than stock but want to be 150% sure it’s race legal.

Whats everything doing with UTV’s these days? Chromoly? Or just DOM. I see a lot of advertised cages out of DOM.

MIG or tig? I cannot tig, so that would be a bit more involved and costly.

Bolting to the chassis ok? Or has to be welded. I know the weld rule but I saw several BITD races x3’s at SEMA that were bolted to the plates can am provides. Where does the weld rule end on the cage. How far down before you can bolt stuff?

Doors. Ok or not? Then again with the side bars a door in front of it would be almost useless anyways.

Thanks for the help in advance guys


—John


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Zambo

Well-Known Member
#2
You can download the NORRA rule book very easily by going to their site. The stock UTV classes in NORRA have pretty simple rules. You can even run the stock cage if you want, which is what PJ Jones did in the winning car this year. Just about all the safety stuff you need is real seats and harnesses, window nets, and secondary door latches. That said, just about any aftermarket cage will also be fine in NORRA.

The rest of the series run the gamut. SCORE and BITD will require a fuel cell and aftermarket cage that is welded to the chassis and has welded door bars. You could do 1.5 x .120 DOM but most just do 1.75 x .90 for the main cage because it matches up nicely to the stock structure.

There are smaller series that allow you to pretty much 'run what you brung.' They all have slightly different rules. I run NORRA in my car with a Cagewrx shorty cage bolted in. You can buy it welded for about 1700 or a weld it yourself kit for about half that. Its a good cage, I only wish it was about an inch taller. Many if not most of the aftermarket cages are fairly short IMO because they look cool that way, but when you're wearing a helmet with aftermarket seats its a tight fit.
 

johndjmix

Well-Known Member
#3
Hey zambo, thanks for the info. I’m planning on building my own cage (I’m an experienced fabricator/welder) so just wanted to check on a few things before.

Looks like .090 is the way to go. I think I’ll do the two main side tubes that go front to rear out of .120 then the rest out of the .090.

I have my trophylite sitting in the shop of course, so I’ll model the cage after that as much as possible.

—John



You can download the NORRA rule book very easily by going to their site. The stock UTV classes in NORRA have pretty simple rules. You can even run the stock cage if you want, which is what PJ Jones did in the winning car this year. Just about all the safety stuff you need is real seats and harnesses, window nets, and secondary door latches. That said, just about any aftermarket cage will also be fine in NORRA.

The rest of the series run the gamut. SCORE and BITD will require a fuel cell and aftermarket cage that is welded to the chassis and has welded door bars. You could do 1.5 x .120 DOM but most just do 1.75 x .90 for the main cage because it matches up nicely to the stock structure.

There are smaller series that allow you to pretty much 'run what you brung.' They all have slightly different rules. I run NORRA in my car with a Cagewrx shorty cage bolted in. You can buy it welded for about 1700 or a weld it yourself kit for about half that. Its a good cage, I only wish it was about an inch taller. Many if not most of the aftermarket cages are fairly short IMO because they look cool that way, but when you're wearing a helmet with aftermarket seats its a tight fit.



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Zambo

Well-Known Member
#4
Sounds good, have fun. Since there’s really no option on where the cage has the land there’s only a few ways to build this thing. In my opinion, I would stay away from cages that land the rear bumper area on the radius rod plate. Seems like that would make maintenance kind of a pain back there.


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Zambo

Well-Known Member
#5
Also, I think even if you're an excellent fabricator, the WIY cage on a pallet from cagewrx would save you a ton of time and effort. You can easily reconfigure the top hoop cross bracing for more headroom, since the main conflict is the v bracing in the halo goes right over your helmet.
 

johndjmix

Well-Known Member
#6
Also, I think even if you're an excellent fabricator, the WIY cage on a pallet from cagewrx would save you a ton of time and effort. You can easily reconfigure the top hoop cross bracing for more headroom, since the main conflict is the v bracing in the halo goes right over your helmet.
Exactly what I was thinking. There’s a good spot to land in the rear on the side frame tubes. Just built a temporary spare tire carrier for Mexico and had it land there.

I don’t know what everyone has their cages land on that rear center bracket!


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