That is some great insight, thank you! Any chance you’ll be joining the challenge in your RS1?
It was a long haul , don’t think I need to do it again . This memory popped up today on Facebook . Can’t complain about taking to Diana on the podium . Great memories . I look forward to following your race this year. You will have a blast !
David, RS1 are not tough. The front arms fold like a lawn chair. Chromoly arms are a "must". The next weak spot are the radius rods on the back. Those need replaced. Next are the axles to replace. Stock axles are made to break to protect the transfer case. Polaris would rather have an axle break before a transmission. The good news is both the drivetrain and clutches are all upgrades on the RS!. Polaris installed all turbo drivetrain and clutches on the No Asperated RS1 to at least make those components beefed up. Failure will happen on a completely stock RS1. First thing that must go is the drivers cage. Need to replace with DOM or Chromoly 1-1/2" .095 or better yet .120 wall. The stock cage on the car can NOT handle a roll over. You will need a fuel cell to be legal otherwise BITD or SCORE will not allow you to race. Not all the aftermarket parts are interchangeable from the 2-seat XP Turbo and the RS1 that I've learned over the year. Front arms are different that race teams produce and don't fit on an RS1. For some reason, the mount tabs on the bottom arms are different. The drive line in an RS1 is totally different in length than the 2-seat. So not even drive lines are interchangeable.That is some great insight, thank you! Any chance you’ll be joining the challenge in your RS1?
Because you are already familiar with the RS1 let me ask a question.... Is it possible for it hold up to an endurance challenge like the one I’m proposing as is, meaning no upgrades to the suspension or drivetrain. Not saying I’m apposed to upgrading, but just saying if someone wanted to do this on the cheap could they.
In 2018 I got a new RZR XP4 1000, I put urethane arm guard on the front and rear, an aftermarket skid plate, bolted on 32’s, revalved the shocks and did the springs. Other than that it was 100% stock. In one year I put 7,000 miles on it which included pre-running the NORRA course, a Baja 500 and 1000 and countless trips from St George to Mesquite and Sand Hollow runs. In that time I never bent or broke anything and only replaced the clutches once. So technically, shouldn’t the RS1 be stronger than the xp4? I get needed to do all the upgrades if I was planning on “racing” the thing to beat out other competitors, but for this particular challenge all I’m looking to do it click along at a solid pace to try to finish in the allotted time. So in your opinion what NEEDS to be done?
Great input Steve! Thank you. Keep it coming.
Does anyone one know if there is a rule about how long the filler line can be? If I were to run a 3 inch secured and shielded hose from the tank up towards the front of the car and have the fuel cap coming up through the left side hood, I could get an extra gallon of gas for every 2.7 feet of line.
Do you know if their suspension kits stretch the wheelbase? The 83” wheel base is honestly my biggest worry. Not very forgiving of you hit something wrong at speed.
You'll gain 2" in length on rear trail arms and 1-1/2" to 2" on front arms to accommodate 32" tires. Otherwise they will rub. Keep in mind that the move forward also changes the steering box angle that will cause the stock box/rack to fail. Shock therapy has designed a new heavy duty steering box/rack that is built proof. Plus heavy duty tie-rod ends.
I feel like you are confusing 74-76 with 84-86. Considering max width in most orgs is 80”
No I think he’s got it right. The stock wheelbase is 83”, with a long travel kit you obviously gain width but some kits also can increase wheelbase. It would be great to stretch the wheelbase to 86” and go 72” wide.
David, I think I mentioned a few weeks ago that extending is allowed but you have to be careful even moving the front arms forward 1-1/2" to 2". Some long travel kits get the 2" for 32' or 33" tire clearance. My point is when you move the front arms forward (all long travel kits do move forward 1-1/2" to 2" you change the angle of the tie-rods into the steering rack. That slight move forward will destroy the stock rack because of the design and angle changing.