RacingTraX RS1 Ironman Challenge! Who's in?

RacingTraX

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Here she is. I got it home and my wife insisted on being the first to take it out... I didn’t have the heart to tell her no especially after she has agreed to support me in this crazy idea of mine... so now the car has 55 miles on it 🤨
I’ll put my own 200 on it at the Legacy Pre-Run next week.
FA24F5D6-605B-4884-BDDE-0FAD1C2DAB42.jpeg
 

BITD_1021

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David, Harmon Race Cells built my custom fuel cell for my RS1. All under the seat and 14.7 gal
You got some money to spend to get that race ready. Front arms and trail-arms... big $$. 4 race coils... big $$. The fuel cell to be legal... big $$. Expect to spend $25k-$28k on parts alone and another $20k in fabrication install. I own one, been building since end of 2019 and still not there.
 

RacingTraX

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David, Harmon Race Cells built my custom fuel cell for my RS1. All under the seat and 14.7 gal
You got some money to spend to get that race ready. Front arms and trail-arms... big $$. 4 race coils... big $$. The fuel cell to be legal... big $$. Expect to spend $25k-$28k on parts alone and another $20k in fabrication install. I own one, been building since end of 2019 and still not there.
That is some great insight, thank you! Any chance you’ll be joining the challenge in your RS1? 😃
Because you are already familiar with the RS1 let me ask a question.... Is it possible for it hold up to an endurance challenge like the one I’m proposing as is, meaning no upgrades to the suspension or drivetrain. Not saying I’m apposed to upgrading, but just saying if someone wanted to do this on the cheap could they.
In 2018 I got a new RZR XP4 1000, I put urethane arm guard on the front and rear, an aftermarket skid plate, bolted on 32’s, revalved the shocks and did the springs. Other than that it was 100% stock. In one year I put 7,000 miles on it which included pre-running the NORRA course, a Baja 500 and 1000 and countless trips from St George to Mesquite and Sand Hollow runs. In that time I never bent or broke anything and only replaced the clutches once. So technically, shouldn’t the RS1 be stronger than the xp4? I get needed to do all the upgrades if I was planning on “racing” the thing to beat out other competitors, but for this particular challenge all I’m looking to do it click along at a solid pace to try to finish in the allotted time. So in your opinion what NEEDS to be done?
 

Dhigbee

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That’s incredible. Get on a quad and drive it off road from St George to Salt Lake, get there and turn around back to St George... oh, but once you get back to St George you’re only 2/3rds of the way done... turn around and go back to Salt Lake. That’s how far you went! All without a cage and a cup holder... absolutely inspiring!
It was a long haul , don’t think I need to do it again . This memory popped up today on Facebook . Can’t complain about taking to Diana on the podium . Great memories . I look forward to following your race this year. You will have a blast !
 

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BITD_1021

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That is some great insight, thank you! Any chance you’ll be joining the challenge in your RS1? 😃
Because you are already familiar with the RS1 let me ask a question.... Is it possible for it hold up to an endurance challenge like the one I’m proposing as is, meaning no upgrades to the suspension or drivetrain. Not saying I’m apposed to upgrading, but just saying if someone wanted to do this on the cheap could they.
In 2018 I got a new RZR XP4 1000, I put urethane arm guard on the front and rear, an aftermarket skid plate, bolted on 32’s, revalved the shocks and did the springs. Other than that it was 100% stock. In one year I put 7,000 miles on it which included pre-running the NORRA course, a Baja 500 and 1000 and countless trips from St George to Mesquite and Sand Hollow runs. In that time I never bent or broke anything and only replaced the clutches once. So technically, shouldn’t the RS1 be stronger than the xp4? I get needed to do all the upgrades if I was planning on “racing” the thing to beat out other competitors, but for this particular challenge all I’m looking to do it click along at a solid pace to try to finish in the allotted time. So in your opinion what NEEDS to be done?
David, RS1 are not tough. The front arms fold like a lawn chair. Chromoly arms are a "must". The next weak spot are the radius rods on the back. Those need replaced. Next are the axles to replace. Stock axles are made to break to protect the transfer case. Polaris would rather have an axle break before a transmission. The good news is both the drivetrain and clutches are all upgrades on the RS!. Polaris installed all turbo drivetrain and clutches on the No Asperated RS1 to at least make those components beefed up. Failure will happen on a completely stock RS1. First thing that must go is the drivers cage. Need to replace with DOM or Chromoly 1-1/2" .095 or better yet .120 wall. The stock cage on the car can NOT handle a roll over. You will need a fuel cell to be legal otherwise BITD or SCORE will not allow you to race. Not all the aftermarket parts are interchangeable from the 2-seat XP Turbo and the RS1 that I've learned over the year. Front arms are different that race teams produce and don't fit on an RS1. For some reason, the mount tabs on the bottom arms are different. The drive line in an RS1 is totally different in length than the 2-seat. So not even drive lines are interchangeable.
One other thing, the stock alternator will not hold up. Expect to spend $1000-$1500 on an alternator kit. You have to have good lighting to do a race you're talking about. Remember safety first. Trust me, when you think you're going into a race to pace yourself and go easy on the equipment, that never works out that way. Preparing for fewer failures starts in the build. A stock RS1 will not finish a 400-500 mile race. I'll keep in contact with you this year.
Actually there's more planning with building this RS1 then there is in building a Class 10.
Steve
Grand Junction CO
 

RacingTraX

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David, RS1 are not tough. The front arms fold like a lawn chair. Chromoly arms are a "must". The next weak spot are the radius rods on the back. Those need replaced. Next are the axles to replace. Stock axles are made to break to protect the transfer case. Polaris would rather have an axle break before a transmission. The good news is both the drivetrain and clutches are all upgrades on the RS!. Polaris installed all turbo drivetrain and clutches on the No Asperated RS1 to at least make those components beefed up. Failure will happen on a completely stock RS1. First thing that must go is the drivers cage. Need to replace with DOM or Chromoly 1-1/2" .095 or better yet .120 wall. The stock cage on the car can NOT handle a roll over. You will need a fuel cell to be legal otherwise BITD or SCORE will not allow you to race. Not all the aftermarket parts are interchangeable from the 2-seat XP Turbo and the RS1 that I've learned over the year. Front arms are different that race teams produce and don't fit on an RS1. For some reason, the mount tabs on the bottom arms are different. The drive line in an RS1 is totally different in length than the 2-seat. So not even drive lines are interchangeable.
One other thing, the stock alternator will not hold up. Expect to spend $1000-$1500 on an alternator kit. You have to have good lighting to do a race you're talking about. Remember safety first. Trust me, when you think you're going into a race to pace yourself and go easy on the equipment, that never works out that way. Preparing for fewer failures starts in the build. A stock RS1 will not finish a 400-500 mile race. I'll keep in contact with you this year.
Actually there's more planning with building this RS1 then there is in building a Class 10.
Steve
Grand Junction CO
Great input Steve! Thank you. Keep it coming.
 

Dhigbee

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We were told that we could run the RS1 in pro stock utv for score. Won’t need a fuel cell for that class . I would not invest in a fuel cell for that rig . Gusset the a Arms, change radius rods ( which I think is legal for score ) and run it .
 

43mod

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When you have 5 hrs to finish and a couple of hundred miles to go you cant run 15 mph over the next 80 miles of 3 ft whoops to save the car . Make sure you glean out the known weak parts . So any answer on the must be RS1 question ? I could throw 3 seats out of my speed car . Sounds like fun .
 

Bro_Gill

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FWIW- Fusion down in Lake Elsinore, Ca. makes all the suspension pieces you would need for racing a RS1, cage as well. 11 year old raced one at BITD Parker Grand Prix last year, no issues. Car runs with Turbo cars all day long and lasts. Probably not as cheap as you would hope to run stock parts, but if you don't want to walk to La Paz, might be worth a look.
 

RacingTraX

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We were told that we could run the RS1 in pro stock utv for score. Won’t need a fuel cell for that class . I would not invest in a fuel cell for that rig . Gusset the a Arms, change radius rods ( which I think is legal for score ) and run it .
Does anyone one know if there is a rule about how long the filler line can be? If I were to run a 3 inch secured and shielded hose from the tank up towards the front of the car and have the fuel cap coming up through the left side hood, I could get an extra gallon of gas for every 2.7 feet of line.
 

RacingTraX

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FWIW- Fusion down in Lake Elsinore, Ca. makes all the suspension pieces you would need for racing a RS1, cage as well. 11 year old raced one at BITD Parker Grand Prix last year, no issues. Car runs with Turbo cars all day long and lasts. Probably not as cheap as you would hope to run stock parts, but if you don't want to walk to La Paz, might be worth a look.
Do you know if their suspension kits stretch the wheelbase? The 83” wheel base is honestly my biggest worry. Not very forgiving of you hit something wrong at speed.
 

Dhigbee

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My comments were framed around the Pro Stock Class. There are only a few changes you can make in that class. There are bunch changes that others have posted that are absolutely applicable. I would check with SCORE on what class you can run in first. I will be at Legacy this weekend and will stop by and say hello.
 

BITD_1021

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Do you know if their suspension kits stretch the wheelbase? The 83” wheel base is honestly my biggest worry. Not very forgiving of you hit something wrong at speed.
You'll gain 2" in length on rear trail arms and 1-1/2" to 2" on front arms to accommodate 32" tires. Otherwise they will rub. Keep in mind that the move forward also changes the steering box angle that will cause the stock box/rack to fail. Shock therapy has designed a new heavy duty steering box/rack that is built proof. Plus heavy duty tie-rod ends.
Total width not to exceed 86" outsite of tire to outside of tire in Pro900R class.
Most long travel kits will take you to 84"-86"
 
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Rcamp99

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You'll gain 2" in length on rear trail arms and 1-1/2" to 2" on front arms to accommodate 32" tires. Otherwise they will rub. Keep in mind that the move forward also changes the steering box angle that will cause the stock box/rack to fail. Shock therapy has designed a new heavy duty steering box/rack that is built proof. Plus heavy duty tie-rod ends.
Total width not to exceed 86" outsite of tire to outside of tire in Pro900R class.
Most long travel kits will take you to 84"-86"
I feel like you are confusing 74-76 with 84-86. Considering max width in most orgs is 80”
 

RacingTraX

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I feel like you are confusing 74-76 with 84-86. Considering max width in most orgs is 80”
No I think he’s got it right. The stock wheelbase is 83”, with a long travel kit you obviously gain width but some kits also can increase wheelbase. It would be great to stretch the wheelbase to 86” and go 72” wide.
 

BITD_1021

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No I think he’s got it right. The stock wheelbase is 83”, with a long travel kit you obviously gain width but some kits also can increase wheelbase. It would be great to stretch the wheelbase to 86” and go 72” wide.
David, I think I mentioned a few weeks ago that extending is allowed but you have to be careful even moving the front arms forward 1-1/2" to 2". Some long travel kits get the 2" for 32' or 33" tire clearance. My point is when you move the front arms forward (all long travel kits do move forward 1-1/2" to 2" you change the angle of the tie-rods into the steering rack. That slight move forward will destroy the stock rack because of the design and angle changing.
Shock-Therapy makes a beefed up rack from billet aluminum ($995) a must if you move the front arms forward from stock position.
 
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