Ranger balljoints

J_Dog

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I beleve there was a prior post on this, but I tried a search and looked back through a couple of months posts and did not find it. We need to replace a couple of the balljoints on our 85 Ranger (2wd). Any suggestions on brands? If you find the prior post let me know and I'll check it out, instead of making a whole new thread. Also, are the ball joint removal tools worth buying, or just the big hammer and punch theory better? Thanks

Jeff Matlock
<font color=red>Law Dogz Off-Road Racing</font color=red>
Class 7s Ford Ranger - VORRA
 

Kritter

Krittro Campbell
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Get the tool...hammer wont do the job. I picked up some balljoints at Autozone when I did my beams a few weeks ago and they were suprinsigly nice quality and the held up to a highspeed multiple bolder collision which blew a tire, front wheel bearing and rear wheel bearing and seal so I think they work pretty darn good so far.

Kris
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.barneysprecision.com/fabproducts.htm> Fab Parts</A>
 

hoeker

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www.rosshoek.com

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and some have greatness thrust upon them.
 

J_Dog

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Hoeker, that was it. Thanks

Kritter, where's a good place to get the tool and exactly which one. I saw one on Autopart. com for $103.00. little pricey

Jeff Matlock
<font color=red>Law Dogz Off-Road Racing</font color=red>
Class 7s Ford Ranger - VORRA<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by J_Dog on 04/03/03 05:30 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
 

hoeker

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rent one, 8 bucks a day.

i own one, and it is definately the tool for the job, but if you have a press or big bench vise that'l get you by.

Some are born great, some achieve greatness,
and some have greatness thrust upon tham.
 

tedmales

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moog, makes the best parts for front ends. or there is always the dealer.

life is too short to be small
 

hoeker

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i'll fight ya to the end on the moog point. i wouldn't run them if they were free! read the other thread.


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Some are born great, some achieve greatness,
and some have greatness thrust upon them.
 

tedmales

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i like moog parts for front end service. i have not seen any abnormal failures. but i do not think that they were racing anything in the desert. i did put napa balljoints in my last pick because the were offset, and they had them. worked fine for me. I guess people should stick to what works in their situation, which in this case seems like dana parts.

life is too short to be small
 

hoeker

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yeh, the moog parts are fine on street vehicles. i was just forced to go else where when i started racing because they failed miserably.

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and some have greatness thrust upon them.
 

bajaruner11

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Moog = junk for off road. Street use only
Napa commercial grade = great pre-runner and off road
Henry's or cone = true race balljoint

Nuff said
 

J_Dog

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I bought the Harbor Freight ball joint removal/installation tool today. Works awesome. Best part is it is normally $39.99 and I got it today for $29.99. The thing is way better than the BFH (big f 'n hammer) and punch method. For those wanting one it is called "3-IN-1 BALL JOINT/U-JOINT/C-FRAME PRESS SERVICE KIT" and is item # 38335-OVGA. You can get them at the store or their website. Definitely worth the money!!

Jeff Matlock
<font color=red>Law Dogz Off-Road Racing</font color=red>
Class 7s Ford Ranger - VORRA
 

J_Dog

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Another question. We replaced our broken spindle and as we tightened the lower ball joint nut to the spec. torque we couldn't move the spindle left to right. The upper ball joint has a little up/down play in it and is very easy to move (when the spindle is not on). As we tight the lower ball joint nut the whole spindle moves upward. Am I correct in saying that the upper ball joint is bad and that's what might be causing the bind when we tighten everything up to spec and the spindle moves up, maybe against the joint? Please help. Thanks.

Jeff Matlock
<font color=red>Law Dogz Off-Road Racing</font color=red>
Class 7s Ford Ranger - VORRA
 
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