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Ranger Floating Rear

singlehanded

Well-Known Member
#1
I am almost done with my suspension and have been thinking about next project for my truck. I am going to beef up rear end and driveline then get some better spindals and bigger front brakes. I was wondering if you can have a floating rear and keep the ranger lug patten or if you need to go to a f-150 pattern. I may just get a regular 9" and put a warn floating kit on later, but I would like to keep all lug patterns the same. So that I dont buy some ranger lug beadlocks then have to change over to 5 on 5.5. I hope this is making sense. Also what is the best way to strengthen front spindals and brakes. I have forged ranger beams. Will f-150s work, will they need to be fabbed to fit. I want to do it all at once if I need to go to change lug pattern to f150, so I can get new street rims and sell the old ones.
-THANKS


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ntsqd

Well-Known Member
#2
I know you can get 5 x 5 in the stock car hubs, not sure if the two smaller passenger car bolt patterns are available or not. 5 x 4.75 is the common small GM pattern and 5 x 4.5 is the common small Ford pattern (including Ranger). Check the AFCO, Coleman, and Port City Racing pages for what patterns are available in the various floater hubs. Vogel and PCR both make billet steel hubs if you feel you need that kind of strength. The PCR hub has a small advantage over the Vogel hub in that the flange the rotor bolts to is itself a bolt on part. The Vogel flange is part of the hub so you're stuck with that rotor mounting bolt circle and spacing, whereas with the PCR part you can make different flanges to fit what you want/need to use. With any of these hubs it will be real easy to get too much rear brake, so you'll most likely need to address getting bigger front brakes on the truck. One option I've toyed with is making my own floater kit ala the Warn parts using 4wd hubs and spindles. No rear locking hubs for me though, drive flanges from Summers Bros, Cone, or similar.
Bigger wheel bolt circles do have a strength advantage.

TS

"Teach you all I know and you're still stupid"
-- Howdy Lee
 

Kritter

Krittro Campbell
#3
A full floating kit is available for the 8.8 check out rangerstation and they have it on their site.

Kris

"Revenge is best served cold"
 

singlehanded

Well-Known Member
#4
Does anybody know the web address for stock car products. I was told about them a long time ago but never found a site when I searched for it? Or a web address for warn?

Kris- I think Im going to go with a nine inch. Since I need gears and a spool. I would also like a little wider rear, since my front is 8" wider total. It would also give me disk brakes and a higher splined axle like 35+ and be a lot easier to work on. I am coming to the conclusion that I will be changing almost everything but the housing building up my 8.8. Does that sound right to you?

local
 

singlehanded

Well-Known Member
#5
I just checked out the rangerstation and the floating rear end section went to the warn website. The 8.8 must have a 5 on 5.5 lug pattern. Also it is a little unclear exactly if it would fit a 9" out of a versille, it only said around 70 something to 86 ford fullsize/bronco with 35 spline. Any body put one of these kits on a 8.8 or 9" before.

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jeff

Moderator
#6
How about using some wrangler parts to frankenstein the rear together? I wonder if Warn could do something like that for you. Do you really need the full-float capability in your Ranger? Is it running big power? A small diameter bolt pattern is nowhere near as strong as a larger pattern. The VW pattern is SUPER strong whereas the Ford Ranger pattern is pretty wimpy - even though the VWs were never big torque or horsepower monsters. If you really require the strength of a full-floater rear end go ahead and upgrade to the 5 on 5.5 - otherwise just stick with a semi-floating rear end and the Ranger pattern. I agree full-floating is the cool way to go, but if weight and horsepower are things your truck lacks, it might be overkill. What are the other reasons for not converting?

What type of motor is going to propel you through the desert? What is the purpose of the truck?

Aloha
 

ntsqd

Well-Known Member
#7
Stock Car Products:
http://www.afcoracing.com/

Port City Racing:
ttp://www.portcityracing.com/

Pegasus:
http://www.sealsit.com/

TS

"Teach you all I know and you're still stupid"
-- Howdy Lee
 
#8
Currie Enterprises also has a new bitchin rear end that is already trussed..

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.currieenterprises.com>www.currieenterprises.com</A>

 

toddz

Well-Known Member
#9
Warn doesn't make a floater kit for the Versailles rear end, but you could get one with the 36.5" blank shafts(P/N 61759) and have them cut and splined to fit. The Versailles have the same housing ends as the big bearing truck/Bronco rear ends. I have a FF kit on the rear end of my Early Bronco and I'm quite happy with it.

Todd Z.
 

singlehanded

Well-Known Member
#10
Jeff- the truck has a 4 litre and is extended cab. I know that I really dont need a floating rear but it would be nice. Im doing the engine and trans last so I dont know exactly what I going to end up doing. I am probably gonna get a versaille or other old 9" rear and build it myself and trussed it. Unless I find a used one that will work, maybe a floater. I just want to be sure I have the option to make it a floater and change to 5 on 5.5 and get some beadlocks and bajas.
John- I know thats a bad ass housing. I saw there ad in the last few offroad mags. I live right down the street from currie. But I think it a little steep for someone who can trussed it myself. If I had a lot a money to blow definetly.
Todd- that sounds good probably the way I'll go if I dont find a good used floater. So they could just make the blank shafts into a 40 spline? They dont stop at 35 spline thats what I heard before.

Thanks for all the info any ideas on the best way to do the front spindals and big brakes?cone beef up spindals and a set of willwoods. ouch that might run alot. Any good cheaper ideas?

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ntsqd

Well-Known Member
#11
Part of the front ouch would depend on which wilwoods you go for. Racer on a billet Dynalite is $132.29, racer on a Superlite IIA is $142.50, Superlite III is $232.50, GN III is $367.50, and a Prolite is $2025.00 (No I didn't get the decimal in the wrong place). I'm sure most every place sells them for less. I know Summit does. The Superlite IIA would be my generic choice.
Not sure of piston diameters or rotor thickness', but the caliper on the front of late 300ZX's are 4 piston aluminum bodied fixed calipers. I've seen one set in the junkyard. The rears off that same car are 2 piston aluminum fixed calipers that might work well for the rear of a light truck.

TS

"Teach you all I know and you're still stupid"
-- Howdy Lee
 
#12
I would say you wouldn't need a 40 spline rear end for a street legal ranger. A 35 spline would work just fine. I have a class 8 and I'm running a 35 spline. I bought it used from Rick Wiseman who had it in his truck for quite a while and he didn't have any problems with it and both of our trucks weigh more and had more horsepower then your ranger probably will. I'd stick with some 35 spline axles, they're more readily available and much cheaper.
as for the calipers, I have some really heavy duty grand national hearst airheardt calipers that I want to get rid of. I can send you a pic of them if you'd like. They're 4 piston, big calipers, much like the wilwoods that came on my rear end. Give me $150 for the set and they're yours.
 

toddz

Well-Known Member
#13
From what I see in my latest catalog, they don't go above 35 spline. Warn is much less into the custom stuff since the ownership change last year. I can't see you needing more than a 35 spline axle in a Ranger. Hell, I don't think you need more than a 31 spline myself.

Todd Z.
 
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