Ranger starter problem

singlehanded

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Today I was trying to swap my battery into my bed to get some room for my coilovers I plan on getting soon I seemed to have everything together, but the truck did not start. I figured it was probably because the ground was not making enough contact because of the paint in the bed. I needed the car for early tommarrow so I unhooked everything and put it back to normal. But when I started it I was greeted by a starter that seemed to keep on cranking after the car was running. I went back over everything but am stumped! Has anyone ever had this happen to them or might know what I need to do to fix it? Car does start but makes the noise like your double starting it. thanks for any advice, by the way its a 4.0 94 ranger manual

local
 

Greg

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Check or replace the starter solonoid.

Greg
 

singlehanded

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I checked all the wiring and it seems to be connected right, then I replaced solonoid. But it still is having the same problem. Anybody got any ideas. thanks...

local
 

mike_hinson

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Use a test light or meter and check to see if the ignition switch is sticking in the start position. Go across the lead to the solenoid from the switch. Have someone try to start it. When they turn the key, you should see voltage to the terminal on the solenoid. When they let the key go, it should return and you should see the light or meter go dead.
 

tkr

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We've a number of earlier model rangers with lock cylinders that don't return to the "run" position after starting. Try turning the key back manually and not just letting go of it. If that does the trick, replace the lock cylinder.

Good Luck!

Matt Nelson
Team Kwik Racing
 

tkr

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Did you get your problem figured out? What ended up being the problem?

Matt Nelson
Team Kwik Racing
 

singlehanded

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After checking and fooolin around with it for a couple days I broke down and took it over to my friends shop. It ended up being the that the starter was bad. Replaced it and I was able to get the battery mounted in the back . I also plan on getting the front done in a week at the baja shop. (<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.thebajashop.com>www.thebajashop.com</A>) website is up and running check it out. Including 8" total extended beams,plated on uniballs w/ j-armed radius arms back to the transmission crossmember with 1 1/4 heims. Swayaway 2.5 14 stroke coilovers with a pair of hydrolic stops. Mounted to a chromoly cage with removable crossmember. Should be sweet!!!!!!! The rest I plan on doing myself. Thanks for all the ideas on getting it fixed.

local
 
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