Rear End Help

[Kritter]

I want to put 4.56's and an Auburn posi in my 8.8. I was wondering if anybody on here could give me some shops that will do the install for relatively cheap or if anybody had enough experience to lend me a hand doing it who works for beer and less money. I live in San Dimas and was hoping to find something local but if not thats ok.

Thanks,

Kris

When in doubt, GAS IT!

 

[sirhk100]

Mines in the shop right now getting 4:56 in my Exploder front and rear. No Auburn though. I'm having a small shop in Lake Forest do it. They charge $550/ axle installed with new bearings. That's without the posi. This was the cheapest place I found around. The shop is called Autostylz and the phone # is 949-768-7715, I spoke with John.

'99YZ400,
'92 Ford Exploder lifted work in progress,
lifted golf cart

 

[Waldo]

Try J&S Gear in Huntington Beach. My sister-in-law just had her exploder's rear end changed. The bearings took a crap. Might be closer than Lake Forest.

BRAAAAAAAAP!

~Waldo~

 

[Chris]

Sorry to worm in on a thread, but we are trying to drop the third member out of a '75 nine inch. All the bolts around it are off and the pinion nut is off. It won't come out. Someone told us that all you do is take the bolts off and the third member should fall right out. Can anyone enlighten me? Do the axle shafts need to be released from the diff. somehow. My brother called a local shop and the AS$#@!$ said he wasn't an info line and hung up.

 

[sirhk100]

I don't have any 1st hand experience but I would imagine you have to slide the axles out of the carrier to get teh 3rd member to drop out.

'99YZ400,
'92 Ford Exploder lifted work in progress,
lifted golf cart

 

[robert_encinas]

you need to pull the axles out.there are 4 bolts at the end of the tubes(outside bearing reainers)remove them and give the axles a good yank with your hands , hopefully they come right out.

 

[mgobaja]

Yes, you do have to pull the axles out a little bit so that they clear the spider set. If you dont they will help hold the 3rd member in the rear end.

 

[Waldo]

Try pulling the axles out...Hee, Hee! If that doesn't work try pulling out your hair.

BRAAAAAAAAP!

~Waldo~

 

[vwguy]

yes you need to unblot the bearing retainer adn slide the axles out about 2 inches and it should almost fall out if it doesnt

how ironic is it that most people slow down for speed bumps yet almost all of us here im sure pin it

 

[BradM]

As everyone else has already stated, you do need to pull the axles. If they don't come right out you may need to use an axle puller. It looks like any other three finger puller but it is on the end of a slide hammer. Without one, maybe a couple of pry bars would do it?



Build 'em light, wind 'em tight

 

[Chris]

I tried pulling on the axles after release the axle retaining bolts on the end of the axle tubes but the axles is stuck. We'll try the slide hammer route. If that don't work I think I've got some dynamite lying around. Thanks for the help!!!

 

[vwguy]

dont waste the dynamite on the axle use it for deer season

how ironic is it that most people slow down for speed bumps yet almost all of us here im sure pin it

 

[rdc]

You might also try putting a like 4 nuts back on the third member and tighten them down medium tight or so. If you have been pulling on the third member with the axles in you might have it bound up. It doesn't take much to make it hard to pull them axles. Also you can put the nut back on the pinion unless you are re gearing it or changing the pinion seal or yoke. A big hammer is always a good tool !!!

Tony

 

[Chris]

Thats the reason we are pulling the third member. All the seals are blown. We put it all back together with gasket making goop. If it starts to leak again we are going to have to go down to the local kragen and get a slide hammer and work on it until those suckers come out.

 

[BradM]

I don't know if you can get one at Kragen but Snap on carries them for a few cents more. You could also make one pretty easy if your very handy.

Take a harmonic balancer puller and either make a center shaft that threads into the center or you could use a long piece of all thread with a nut on each side. The find a weight, about 5 pounds should do it, and bore a hole in it to slide over the center shaft then put another nut on the end of the shaft for the weight to stop against. The shaft should be about 18-24 inches. If the slots in your harmonic puller aren't large enough for the studs then make a steel plate that will bolt up to at least three studs with the shaft attached to the center.

My Snap on puller works great but an effective substitute could be made cheap and easy.




Build 'em light, wind 'em tight

 

[rdc]

Chris what seals are blown? Just the pinion seal? or is it leaking from around the flange of the third member itself? If it is just the pinion seal then you can change it without pulling the third member.

Tony

 

[sirhk100]

This worked for me a few years back trying to pop the axles outta my AMC20 rearend in a CJ7. I took a piece of channel iron and drilled two holes to allow it to bolt over two opposing lugs. slip on the channel iron and start two of the lug nuts. Slide a 6' chain between the channel and the axle face, try to center the chain approximately. then tighten down the lug nuts. This sandwiched the chain tight between the channel iron and the axle end. I then bolted the ends of the chain together to make a loop out of the chain. I slipped in a 8lb sledge and took a hard swing and the axle litterally flew out. The 2nd side I took a couple easier swings and it just popped right out.



'99YZ400,
'92 Ford Exploder lifted work in progress,
lifted golf cart

 

[Chris]

Unfortunately it is both seals. We replaced the pinion seal in about a minute so at least that's fixed. When we go out testing we will keep an eye on the seal between the 3rd member and the pumpkin. If it starts to leak again (which I think it will) then its time for the home made axel puller. Thanks for the ideas.

 

[BradM]

I usually don't like to comment on way to rig [censored] up but if your weatherstrip adhesive doesn't work, go down to Hkme Depot and get a tube of LEXEL. It is clear, comes in a caulking tube and looks like silicone. Clean the area around the pumpkin real good with brake cleaner and lay a bead of Lexel around it. I have seen it used to temporarily repair an oil leak at the pan gasket at the races and it worked so good that the gasket didn't get replaced all season.



Build 'em light, wind 'em tight