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Rear end questions

PatrickG

Well-Known Member
#1
I was wondering what would be best for my Toyota. I want to beef up the rear end of my truck, I have the 7.5 in it, but I would like to put a locker or posi in it and those parts are super expensive. I was looking at either a Ford 9" or the Toyota 8" out of a V6. I was wondering what the which would be better. Would the 8" be strong enough in my truck. Oh its a 93' standard cab and eventually i'm going to get a race pack and bypass shocks.
Thanks
Patrick
 
#2
If you are looking to race the truck I would recommend the 9". The parts are easy to get and you can modify the 9" easily. This rear end isn't going to be too cheap though. If you are going to buy new springs and bypass shocks...budget in a 9".

If you are only going to prerun and it is an ongoing project, I would go with a limited slip locker. Check with ARB Locker or J&S gear in HB. I used to have a 93 standard cab Toy with a limited slip and it worked great for my prerunning. Late!

BRAAAAAAAAP!
 

PatrickG

Well-Known Member
#3
Thanks. I guess since I plan on racing it one day, I'll just go with the 9". Is there a 9" that would swap in from another car, or should i just have one made. I'm probably going to widen the rear by a couple of inches. Now what's the difference between bearing sizes and is it really necessary to run big bearings in my little truck or even gusset it up. I was planing on reinforce the back, do i really need to do the top and/or bottom too.
patrick
 

jimpat

Well-Known Member
#4
be careful welding the rear end housing... the moment you weld on it, it tends to bend, so you'll have to put a bead on the opposite side of the tube.
use the housing from a truck or a early lincoln with the disk brakes, box it in, use a detroit locker, do not waste
money on anything else, limited slip wont hold up.
get some 31 spline axles, and use a sway bar, probably one inch diameter......32 " long and you'll have a bullet proof set up...
and if you get too confused, call me, i'll help you finding one and sizing it
jim

when everything is under control, you are going to slow!!!!!
 

JasonHutter

Well-Known Member
#5
We put a ford 9" in our race truck out of a Bronco II ( I think but I could check) The stock 7.5 Toyota rear end that was in it was 51"s wide and the Ford 9" is 53"s wide. If you are interested I could find out for sure what it came out of. By the way, we picked up the rear-end for $200, just be sure to check how straight it is when you get one. I have added an attachment that you can kind-of see the rear-end in.

Jason

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by JasonHutter on 06/22/01 01:51 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
 

JasonHutter

Well-Known Member
#6
Here is the attachment
 

Junior

Well-Known Member
#7
I would be suprised if the Bronco II ever came with a Ford 9" rear end. I don't think they were ever offered with a V8! But I could, and often am wrong.

Junior
EJR Racing #244
 

PatrickG

Well-Known Member
#10
Thanks everyone. Jason and Paul did you guys have to modify the rear end much to get it to go in. What type of axles did it have or did you change those, what bolt pattern are you currently running (did the bronco rear have the same 5 on 4.5 as stock toyota), and are you running drums or disk. Jim I usnderstand what you mean by welding the tubes, I should weld around the tubes at the center section. But I dont understand exactly what you mean by the swaybar part. Thanks again.
Patrick
 

JasonHutter

Well-Known Member
#11
When we got the rear end, we completely cleaned off any and all of the previous brackets or mounts. We then lined it up and added the purchases for the leaf springs on the bottom of the axle. Then we completely gusseted the axle, bottom, back, and top. The last thing we added to the outside of the housing is the mount for our traction bar on top. As for axles and brakes, we went with 31 spline Currie Enterprise axles with a spool, and the brakes are Willwood billet aluminium caliper disc brakes. The axles we bought from Currie has the stock Toyota 2wd stud pattern. If you were going for cheap to start, the bare minimum would be to (1) pull your drive shaft after talking to the drive line guys to see what measurements they need, and have the Ford 9" U joint put onto it (2) clean off the housing and add the spring purchases (you can make your own, or usually one of the shops will have them pre-made so you can just weld them on) (3) you will probably have to get new axles if you want to continue to use the same bolt pattern on your rims ( I think ours were approx $200 each) (4) they will usually sell something to go from the axle housing to what ever brakes you plan to use. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Jason
Fire Guys Racing
 

firedog

Well-Known Member
#12
If you are going to weld anything on the housing make sure you tack everythig on then go very slow (1/4" long beads at at time) and like jimpat said place them on opposite sides. I would only do a max of 4- 1/4" welds and then walk away and let it cool, if not you'll have a hard time getting the axle shafts in because the housing is bent. It took us a little over a week to complete the welding on ours. Good Luck!!
 
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