rear shock hoop

BigD

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im planning on getting a shock hoop built for the rear of my truck soon and i have a couple of questions...first of all i have a 2001 f150 short bed, and im gonna be running the deaver prerunner springs. i want to have the shock hoop built so its no taller than a 20" out of the bottom of my bed (im planning on building a carpet kit over it for camping). anyways, how much travel can i pull off with a hoop set up like that, what kind of angle should i set the shocks at, and how big of shocks should i use??? any opinions would be great. its gonna be a unique set up, but it should end up being pretty cool. ill try and post a drawing so you guys can get a better idea of what im talkin about...
 

BigD

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ok, heres a sketch.....i tried. the hoop(red thing) cant be any higher than 20", easy enough. so tell me what you think. thanks
 

cleartoy

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Need to attatch the pic as a file.

85 Toyota xtracab 4x4(for sale)
94 Toyota stdcab 2x4
99 Yamaha YZ250

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BigD

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ok, sketch wouldnt attach....i tried. hope you get the idea anyways
 

hbprnstr

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The first thing i would consider is what kind of travle are you pulling out of the front end?? If you dont have long travle and arent getting atleast 12 inchs out of the front there is no point in having 14 in the rear. If you have some sort of long travle in the front i say go for it other wize save youre money and get somthing you can really use, like a camp stove.
 

havahockey

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No point in having 14" in the rear if you don't have at least 12" in the front? Where did you come up with that magic number?

Maybe he is building up his rear end first, and even if he doesn't have long travel in the front that doesn't mean he can't build a hoop for his truck. I have plenty of friends who have less then 12" in the front with shock hoops in the back and their trucks do awesome in the desert.
 

hbprnstr

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12 and 14 inches where just used as a refrence point. I cant see spending money on having a rear that can handle the ruff stuff and hammering the front just like i wouldnt have a coilover front end and stock rear. I was just giving my opinion on the subject and if he wasnt planing on doing the front too maybe his money woulld be better spent else where. But hey, thats just my opinion....that is still what this forum is for is it not.
 

Kritter

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So you are saying there is no point in having 18 inches in the rear of a 7s truck because the front has a LIMIT of 12 inches in which not all trucks use up to the limit? You would be surprised how much faster a non "pimp, dimple died, uniballed, tig welded, coilovered, unobtanium front end" can go with a good rear suspension. It is a lot easier to control and you are not nose wheelieing over every bump. If you can't keep the rear wheels on the ground you can't go anywhere. It seems that every new person on here is concerned about how much wheel travel you have or can get, when it is the quality of the wheel travel....unless we are talking high dollar and then it is quantity and quality...most of the time. Since you are a Tacoma guy, I bet a tested and valved king or SAW simple coilover lift with hyd. bump and better ball joints(8 or so inches of travel) and properly sprung and valved rear end (12 inches) would smoke most bolt on with minor fab long travel kits with 12 or more inches and a stock rear suspension...something to think about.

Kris
 

cleartoy

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I relate to Kritter. I got a new kit on the front and it handles awesome. Too bad the rear is stock and kicks like a mofo in the whoops. Its like the truck rides on the front wheels!!!!!!!

85 Toyota xtracab 4x4(for sale)
94 Toyota stdcab 2x4
99 Yamaha YZ250

Got Sand??
 

BigD

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ok guys, back to the question.......and to answer your questions, i have a coilover long travel kit in the front and im pulling about 14" travel. happy pornstar?? k cool. with the setup im talkin about how much can i get out of the rear end??? i dont mind angling the shocks or having big ass holes in my bed. any ideas??? anyone done anything similar to this??? all im trying to do is get the maximum amount of travel out of a smaller shock hoop, i was even considering keeping em under the bed but i think it will be worthwhile to build a trick hoop. so shock length, angling, other ideas???? anything would be helpful besides camp stove recommendations, i already have a coleman.......jk.
 

havahockey

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You really won't know what angle you'll need the shock at until you are building the hoop. Since its a full size you could probably put 14" stroke shocks on without it sticking up much through the bed, maybe like 6". But don't quote me. I think the best thing to do is install your deavers first then cycle the leafs to see what size shock you could get in there.
 

Kritter

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I did a sketch and with a 16 inch stroke shock you can almost go 1:1....with my assumptions, I dont have an F 150 but I assumed the frame height is 6 inches, the axle tube is 3 inches, and the pack will be 4 inches thick. Width of axle is not of importance to these sketches. With dimensions from SAW website on a 16" bypass shock I came up with the following sketch. It cycles completely and has 1.5 degree of angle at bump and about .9 degree at droop, but this also depends on the shackles used. If you have solidworks I can send you all the files and you can tinker with it yourself and make it more accurate.


Kris
 

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John Bitting

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Kritter, nice work I like that.. But aside from all that, I say lay some shocks down under the bed. Dont go through it if you are not going all out and getting crazy. You will retain the entire bed and not cut it up especially if you are putting a carpet kit. You wont need to worry about water coming up through the shock holes and dirt. Stock mini and stock fulls all have to keep them under the bed and guy like Sykes and Spirkoff are fast as hell..
 

drtdevil93

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kritter- the pack is approximately 2.85 inches (rounded off of course) thick. the pack will do about 17" with a stock shackle. since your priority is fit, and you probably arent going to be racing or jumping it 10 feet high, id go with a 14" shock set forward about 15". sounds kind of extreme, but it'll work just fine. that will give you a little over 16" of travel with a motion ratio of 1:1.15, (for every 1" of shock travel there is 1.15" of axle travel. just let your shock builder know this, and he can put more high speed progression in the valving. the motion ratio on my race truck (or has-yet-to-race truck, i guess) is about the same, and as long as you are valved right, you wont have any problems.

erik
 
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