Roll cage type (forward of the main hoop). . .3 choices, which one to choose???

atomicjoe23

Well-Known Member
Posts
4,058
Reaction
72
So there are basically 3 choices when it comes to constructing the portion of the roll cage forward of the main hoop:

1) a halo
2) down tubes going from the main hoop along the roof and down the A-pillar with a header bar
3) a forward hoop that follows the A-pillars and windshield with bars going between it and the main hoop.

Is there a distinct advantage of one over the other from a safety/protection or fabrication point of view?

The only thing I can see is that the 3rd option would most likely require 4 bends in a single tube vs. 4 and two of those bends would be out of plane adding to the complexity of the part.

Thoughts???
 

jon coleman

Well-Known Member
Posts
7,261
Reaction
3,932
depends on car.i like #2., in a closed car
.u can get it snug to fit.open like jeep, halo is best ( nascar).i do a no 2 , but the 'header' bar has a halo bend w 4-6" tube gussets were sun visors usually attach.more triangles the better.and try to land all tubes at bend junctures
.hope that helps
 

06dak287

Well-Known Member
Posts
249
Reaction
4
sort of along the same lines but seeking some input. the "extended cab cage" thread never got a reply from helton or anyone.

Is it BITD legal to have just an A and B pillar cage in an ext cab truck? I'm 6'3" so my seat is halfway into the back window and my head is about where the B pillar is. I set my main B hoop back a bit farther and looking to just skip the C tubes and go straight out of to the rear. Is there a "span" requirement?

to stay on topic, I'm going with option 2...
 

Attachments

  • MainHoopStart.jpg
    MainHoopStart.jpg
    562.2 KB · Views: 250

atomicjoe23

Well-Known Member
Posts
4,058
Reaction
72
I don't know for sure, but I would think about pushing your main hoop all the way back to the rear of the cab and using a seat back brace behind your seats. . .it's what the road racing rules require. I don't know about the legality for BITD. . .best bet is probably to contact BITD directly. . .

I'll try to find a picture of the seat back brace so you can see what I'm talking about and what the reasoning is. . .
 

atomicjoe23

Well-Known Member
Posts
4,058
Reaction
72
This is what is required for road racing if you have a seat that uses sliders (to accomodate different drivers). . .keeps the back of the seat braced so that it will stay put in the event of a crash and the slider fails. . .
 

Attachments

  • Seat Brace.jpg
    Seat Brace.jpg
    776.9 KB · Views: 290

06dak287

Well-Known Member
Posts
249
Reaction
4
Thanks,

So is it a legality issue or more of a preference for the ext cab guys? I found a picture of what looks like a race legal cage (attached). It's on the "bendin tube 101" article. They captioned it as a "desert race truck".

Email sent off to BITD and Mike over at JeepSpeed just to confirm.
 

Attachments

  • rollcage_inside1.jpg
    rollcage_inside1.jpg
    18.1 KB · Views: 266

y2kbaja

Well-Known Member
Posts
2,846
Reaction
1,317
sort of along the same lines but seeking some input. the "extended cab cage" thread never got a reply from helton or anyone.

Is it BITD legal to have just an A and B pillar cage in an ext cab truck? I'm 6'3" so my seat is halfway into the back window and my head is about where the B pillar is. I set my main B hoop back a bit farther and looking to just skip the C tubes and go straight out of to the rear. Is there a "span" requirement?

to stay on topic, I'm going with option 2...

The diagonal or bend coming off the B pillar can't be more than 18" from the drivers head. Distance B-C in my crude diagram. Our truck had a tube coming off B and out the back window then bent to the frame. Even with a C pillar hoop. We didn't pass Score tech because it was 25" from B to the bend.

A _____B C
/ o | \
/ | \

I never understood why cages are built with a C hoop.
You will be ok moving the B hoop back then going diagonal out the back window. It will give you more head room and less helmet banging if you move it back enough. Keep in mind you should put a "wing" diagonal from the A-roof junction straight down with the A-B span that large.
 

y2kbaja

Well-Known Member
Posts
2,846
Reaction
1,317
yes
 

06dak287

Well-Known Member
Posts
249
Reaction
4
Not quite sure what you mean by the diag coming off B. Hard to picture I guess.

Just got a reply from BITD. Good to go! No C needed since I'm so tall my head will be close to a "midway B" hoop anyway. Onward!
 

06dak287

Well-Known Member
Posts
249
Reaction
4
Oh you mean the through cab kickers to the axle?

Those should be well within 18" of my head with the main "B" hoop half way as pictured.
 

gwizz

Well-Known Member
Posts
89
Reaction
21
eh i prefer a solid A tube to the main instead of a halo.

ive always looked at it more or less as the bends are meant to bend, the welds are meant to break during a failure. which is why i want a solid A tube which goes all the way to the main hoop. but that being said strait tubes are way easier to repair than bent ones.


most halos are built cause its easier. anything can work fine with enough points and good welds. they all get disadvantaged if you flip hard enough/fast enough.
 

jon coleman

Well-Known Member
Posts
7,261
Reaction
3,932
yup, look at nascar, they just keep throwing more tubes at there spec cages, why? cause motorsport is dangerous, dont scrimp, or try to build light weight, put padding every were, not only for your head, but hands, arms, feet ect, check all pointy - pokey things, sharp edges ect.its amazing how far & fast u stretch& flail about in a faster wadd up.be safe.also check your missle hazards, loose crap, tools, bottles of oil -water , anything that can fly around and smack you in exposed areas.yes, sucks getting oil all over the place
 

Josh 8

Well-Known Member
Posts
562
Reaction
709
Kinda late to the party.

I chose option 2. A picture is worth a 1000 words.

93F22FCB-7EB0-4A77-BACE-9071915B29C4.jpeg5F6DF248-DD3E-4650-AEA7-7BBB9C64CCE8.jpeg1EC9536C-1B4C-494F-98A6-146C6BE5CA4B.jpeg20F20D62-6BDF-4AA0-9B66-B73FAD9C2175.jpeg8A101F6E-0771-4FD4-89CD-284C3CF9A816.jpeg268D4C8D-84EB-449A-ACB4-59B7844A75DF.jpeg99C214C2-9A71-41B3-9DC1-9D65D3BC631E.jpeg5D9254E9-72C7-4CE1-8894-B87686AFD019.jpeg93F22FCB-7EB0-4A77-BACE-9071915B29C4.jpeg5F6DF248-DD3E-4650-AEA7-7BBB9C64CCE8.jpeg1EC9536C-1B4C-494F-98A6-146C6BE5CA4B.jpeg20F20D62-6BDF-4AA0-9B66-B73FAD9C2175.jpeg8A101F6E-0771-4FD4-89CD-284C3CF9A816.jpeg268D4C8D-84EB-449A-ACB4-59B7844A75DF.jpeg99C214C2-9A71-41B3-9DC1-9D65D3BC631E.jpeg
 

jon coleman

Well-Known Member
Posts
7,261
Reaction
3,932
header bar is one that u can get to fit perfect& gives u forward head room on a closed cab, on an open jeep type no roof , i like halo, easeier to get 'a' bars tight, either or, looks killer!
 

gwizz

Well-Known Member
Posts
89
Reaction
21
i prefer a "W" vs "X" for the main hoop but other than that the cage looks legit. you could also add one more bar at the "A" pillar strait up and down almost in line with your vent window and tie that into what ever you have going on under the cab.
 

jon coleman

Well-Known Member
Posts
7,261
Reaction
3,932
like this, ricky built my cage close to fia specs.
 

Attachments

  • 20180727_190618.jpg
    20180727_190618.jpg
    548.3 KB · Views: 137
  • 20180727_190546.jpg
    20180727_190546.jpg
    641.7 KB · Views: 122

Josh 8

Well-Known Member
Posts
562
Reaction
709
i prefer a "W" vs "X" for the main hoop but other than that the cage looks legit. you could also add one more bar at the "A" pillar strait up and down almost in line with your vent window and tie that into what ever you have going on under the cab.

Oh yeah. There are lots of places to add tubing. I am a minimulist in my designs. I like the idea of a few large tubes to get the job done. The x patter at the B piller is to support the upper 2 links of the 4 link. It ties it all together. I wanted to only use a single rear diagonal bar but one side of the frame would’ve have been flapping around unsupported.

Anyway, it’s been stress tested and passed.

Did this is 16’
 
Top