School me on uniballs


Well-Known Member
As the title says... I need to know about uniballs. I have a CST LT kit on my '90 Chevy, and I'm tired of the lower ball joints needing to be replaced all the time. Evolution off-road recommended I convert the arms to uniballs. Good move or bad? How hard would it be to convert the arms? How expensive are uniballs?
I've heard about the CST Pro Joints and the Cone Industries ball joints, but to me it seems like uniballs with the rubber boots over them are a better design. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Ryan B

Well-Known Member
i suppose it depends how you drive, but we have to replace the uniballs on our 10 car almost everyrace.

Do your lower balljoints bind at full bump or droop turning too?

I'd check that before you cut your a-arms apart to add uniballs.


CST went to a uni-ball design on their later designs for the 1999-2006 Chevy C1500's long travel kits. The CST Pro-Joint ain't cheap at about $250 bucks per joint and from what I know the tapers are designed for use in an upper arm application only. A quality ball-joint like the "Cone" version used in the ProTruck seems to hold up pretty well to off-road use but dollar for dollar it'll be cheaper for you to purchase a cup + uniball setup. A complete cup + uniball + mis-alignment spacers will run you about $100 bucks per side.

I'm surprised you are having lower joint issues as the upper joint is usually the first to wear out on these kits. If Evolution can safely cut out the ball-joint pocket and weld in a uni-ball cup I'd probably do it. You can replace a Uni-ball pretty quickly if necessary for about the same price as a decent ball-joint. The downside is you'll either have to drill out the taper in the knuckle or find the correct tapered pin adapter. If the steering knuckle is cast (Fabtech spindle?) drilling it out reduces the material around the bolt and that can lead to problems down the road. It used to be pretty common to drill out the tapers and this lead to some "slop" in the fitment after time and eventually a few catastrophic failures. If you can find a tapered adapter pin with the misalignment shoulder built in I'd run that instead of drilling the knuckle and running a regular bolt.