Setting up I-beams. . .

atomicjoe23

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Got a quick question that I hope you guys can help me out with (please humor me on this one). . .

. . .if I have a front I-beam set-up and have to locate my own bracketry. . .what angles should the I-beams be set to (when viewed from the front) at ride height, full droop, and/or full bump? Which position is most critical. . .right now I'm thinking full bump to make sure that I don't have any interference issues.

The location of the brackets at ride height will determine the I-beam length. . .or the I-beam length and bracket location will determine ride height. . .whichever way you care to look at things. . .

If no one can really answer this then if someone could go out and throw an angle finder on their I-beams of their F-150/Ranger/Bronco and let me know what your angle is at ride height I would greatly appreciate it!

Thanks!
 

atomicjoe23

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Oh yeah. . .if you have a LT I-beam set-up and you're gonna make extended radius arms what angle should you shoot for as the maximum angle of the radius arms at say full droop and full bump. . .obviously the longer the radius arms the bigger the arc that they travel through and the maximum angle they achieve is smaller.

I appreciate this guys!
 

atomicjoe23

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No takers on this???

Right now I have it set-up in AutoCAD to keep the center of gravity as low as possible at ride height.

I set-it up so that I have 1/2" of clearance between the I-beams and the frame at full compression (8" bump & 8" droop right now. . .that may change some though). . .at full compression there is ~4.25" ground clearance for the lowest point hanging below the vehicle (at this point that is the I-beams).

I am currently designing it for 2* negative camber @ ride height and a KPI of 9* @ ride height (I know that you typically see about 12-14* KPI in off-road vehicles, but I didn't build this knuckle and I don't know if I will have time to build my own knuckle or not so for right now this is pretty well set).

Any input or suggestions for me?
 

knucklemeat

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all i can tell you is what a very knowledgeable beam guy told me to do with my '70 i-beam truck.he said start at ride height and get 1-2 degrees camber i believe it was six degrees of caster and about seven inches of clearance from beam to frame.you can make your own decisions about radius arms and clearance issues from there. not much,but it's a start.
 

F1shifty

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just my opinion... i have a 94 f-150..... id try to mount the brackets up a good amount. i used to have drop brackets which is obviously the other end of the spectrum from long travel but when u have beams that are level or no angle to them(like drop bracket creates), when u jump your travel will cycle more then the clearance that you have between your bracket and the ground,bottoming the bracket into the ground. ive done it, its painfull, bends stuff....my beams are cut n turned for about a 5" lift and it seems to work pretty good. anyways good luck
 

atomicjoe23

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Mine is a totally custom, one-off set-up. . .this is not for a truck. . .this is an attempt to address a long travel suspension and clearance issue all in one with a very compact set-up. . .
 
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