Setting up Spal Fans, need help from racers and builders

[F.A.S.T.clothing]

We are building a ford race truck 1450/7200 and we plan on running dual 16" pullers on the radiator, and dual transmission coolers with 14" pullers and a single oil cooler with a 14" puller. I was talking to spal today and he wanted to know about control ability, he said that is a lot of amps going through the electrical system if running those constant at one time. I told him we have dual yellow tops, and its for racing and I figured they be on a switch. He wants to know exactly how they be set up, like if they have to turn on or run at a certain percentage at a certain temperature and so on, he wants to know the control aability of the fans.

I don't know what to tell him, and my builder thinks he just doesnt understand they are for a race truck.

Please give me your input how yours are set up, if they are just on switches (individual or all together) and if you also use your truck for driving on street or fun and not just racing.

thank you

 

[sandking]

First of all, unless Spal is building you a harness, they should not be concerned how you control them.

If you are using a computer (PCM) controlled engine, the PCM can control the fans to come on a certain temp. The fans will need to be run through relays as the PCM cannot handle the load of the fans. The PCM can be tuned to control the fans to come on at any temp you desire.

If you dont have a PCM, you can get a sender to control the fans the same way.

I have two 16" fan on the radiator and one 12" fan on the trans cooler all running at the same time. They are wired to relays directly from the ignition. So when you turn the key on, all 3 fans turn on. May not be the best way, but it works. Just make sure your wiring is good and the correct size.

 

[L&LMotorsports]

We will be running just about the same thing with each fan on its own switch and its own circuit powered off of a buss bar. It will be in a race truck. This is about the same set up we raced many years ago with no problems at all. I have never ran relays, just quality switches, circuit breakers, and wire rated for the anticipated load. You are probably going to need a 200 amp alternator if you plan to have lights as well so just make sure your wire and such can handle that kind of draw.

 

[07FJRog]

First of all, unless Spal is building you a harness, they should not be concerned how you control them.

If you are using a computer (PCM) controlled engine, the PCM can control the fans to come on a certain temp. The fans will need to be run through relays as the PCM cannot handle the load of the fans. The PCM can be tuned to control the fans to come on at any temp you desire.

If you dont have a PCM, you can get a sender to control the fans the same way.

I have two 16" fan on the radiator and one 12" fan on the trans cooler all running at the same time. They are wired to relays directly from the ignition. So when you turn the key on, all 3 fans turn on. May not be the best way, but it works. Just make sure your wiring is good and the correct size.

Good advice.

I usually setup the Rad fans from the CPU with back up switches to overide if needed. I also run a relay for each fan on the rad in case one craps out, you have back up.

Also you should be running at least a 100 amp alt ( and you prob are already)

Rog

 

[jeff]

What year Ford? What engine? Factory style serpentine or ??? I only ask because I'm curious to see what you decided to run for an alternator.

Aloha

 

[F.A.S.T.clothing]

we have not touched the motor yet, currently its just a 94 4.0, but we will either be dropping in a sohc 4.0 r a v8 for racing

 

[_]

Fast,

You'll be drawing 50 to 60 amps from the fans alone with all fans operating. You will definitely need to runs these through separate relays. Separate the two 22" rad fans into individual circuits/relays. Use one fan for low temp and the other for high temp. Most ECU's are capable of doing this. If not, use a VW rad fan thermal switch. They have two seperate temp settings and one thermal switch can be used for both low and high.

Run the two trans fans through a single relay, then through individual circuit breakers/fuses. This way if one fails, the other will continue to operate. Activate these fans either with a thermal switch or have operate when the ignition is tuned on. I prefer all fans to be activated via thermal switch or ECU, and not ign switch. Although, even when using thermal switches or an ECU, be sure to run the excite for the relays through a separate circuit on the ignition switch. This way the fans will turn off with the ignition and not require the master to be off to shut down the fans.

RE: yellow top batteries. You could have 10 yellow tops and it would not make a difference. Your alternator is the key here. Your alternator must be capable of supplying enough amps, plus 10-20% reserve, to handle the accumulative load of all components including lights.

 

[D-rek]

Fast,

You'll be drawing 50 to 60 amps from the fans alone with all fans operating. You will definitely need to runs these through separate relays. Separate the two 22" rad fans into individual circuits/relays. Use one fan for low temp and the other for high temp. Most ECU's are capable of doing this. If not, use a VW rad fan thermal switch. They have two seperate temp settings and one thermal switch can be used for both low and high.

Run the two trans fans through a single relay, then through individual circuit breakers/fuses. This way if one fails, the other will continue to operate. Activate these fans either with a thermal switch or have operate when the ignition is tuned on. I prefer all fans to be activated via thermal switch or ECU, and not ign switch. Although, even when using thermal switches or an ECU, be sure to run the excite for the relays through a separate circuit on the ignition switch. This way the fans will turn off with the ignition and not require the master to be off to shut down the fans.

RE: yellow top batteries. You could have 10 yellow tops and it would not make a difference. Your alternator is the key here. Your alternator must be capable of supplying enough amps, plus 10-20% reserve, to handle the accumulative load of all components including lights.

I think you are a little high on your amperage. I have a test fixture that I can monitor current draw and each fan draws less then 5 amps a piece. I have two fans on a 15 amp breaker with no problems. You are correct about the alternator being sized right.

 

[Wild bill]

Forget the relays. Switch each fan individually with a quality 20 amp toggle. Use a 20 amp reset-able breaker on each circuit. Each fan will draw about 15 amps on start up and 10 amps running. You need a 100% more circuit breaker capacity than the running amperage. Therefore, a 20 amp circuit breaker will work.

 

[F.A.S.T.clothing]

ok, well I told him just to get me the 5 fans, the mounting hardware, and the regular fan relays, no temp sensors.

Any suggestion on an alternator I should get, a certain brand or? We will also be running 8 8" lights either all HID or Half HID and Halogen, and a couple marker lights in the rear, and lets see other electrical things, a intercom system, a radio, a gps, most likely the race pak electric guage system, I think that is it for electrical things.

 

[jeff]

Make a list...

5 Fans
8 Llights
Marker Lights in the Rear
Intercom System
Race Radio
GPS
Race Pak Electric Guage System
ECU / ECM for Fuel Injection?
Fuel Pump(s)
Parker Pumpers?

Aloha

 

[_]

I think you are a little high on your amperage. I have a test fixture that I can monitor current draw and each fan draws less then 5 amps a piece. I have two fans on a 15 amp breaker with no problems. You are correct about the alternator being sized right.

Check these specs;

http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30102113_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH

http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30102049_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH

http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30102042_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH

Fast, be sure you research/verify every value and double check your numbers. Also, be sure to run the proper gauge wire necessary to insure you will not have excessive voltage drop. Also, before accepting everything you read on these post as gospel, I recommend you consult with a wiring professional, such as myself or one of my competitors.

 

[F.A.S.T.clothing]

5 Fans
8 Llights
4-6 LED marker lights
Intercom System
Race Radio
GPS
Small Stereo (cd, 2 6x9, 1 10/12 sub, 2 amps) maybe and would be removable
Race Pak Electric Guage System
ECU / ECM for Fuel Injection
Fuel Pump
2 Person Fresh Air Pumper
Light Bar actuator
Several 20+ switches

ok I think that would cover it

 

[F.A.S.T.clothing]

Check these specs;

http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30102113_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH

http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30102049_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH

http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30102042_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH

Fast, be sure you research/verify every value and double check your numbers. Also, be sure to run the proper gauge wire necessary to insure you will not have excessive voltage drop. Also, before accepting everything you read on these post as gospel, I recommend you consult with a wiring professional, such as myself or one of my competitors.

I have a friend who has a shop out in Lake Forest going to have him do all the electrical in his shop so he can test currents and has all the right tools and knowledge.

Thank you for the heads up tho

 

[jeff]

If you are serious about the stereo... I'd ditch the CD head unit idea and run a single standalone amp + an iPod NANO or similar MP3 player. It'll be lighter, easier to install and won't skip a beat while you grind through the desert. This amp is waterproof: http://www.polyplanar.com/productSingle.aspx?prt=MZ-100

Aloha

 

[F.A.S.T.clothing]

If you are serious about the stereo... I'd ditch the CD head unit idea and run a single standalone amp + an iPod NANO or similar MP3 player. It'll be lighter, easier to install and won't skip a beat while you grind through the desert. This amp is waterproof: http://www.polyplanar.com/productSingle.aspx?prt=MZ-100

Aloha

yea i have a 16gb nano I prob just do that