Show your open trailer, looking for ideas for a new one.

dan200

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This is our "shop" trailer. Not anything too specialized besides the upgraded axles and that we widened it and made the fenders able to be driven over but, it's a tilt bed style trailer (no ramps) and that makes it soooo much easier to use.

Two spares for it and a locking box for straps and a hub repair kit are a great bonus. The winch obviously helps too when there's a dead car getting loaded. And it's set up so that the hubs fit the same wheels/tires for every trailer we have so the spares for it are universal.

Only thing that would make it better is if it wasn't a drive over fender style and the whole thing was flat. Then it would be easier to load stuff onto it from the side with a forklift.




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ColeA

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here's a HRT Motorsports built trailer. pretty simple design but is long and wide enough to fit a trophy truck. placement for a winch up front and 1 storage side bins each side as well as a tongue compartment for straps.
 

dan200

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Without it being drive over style, it would get pretty tall I'd guess. 16" tires?
Tires are 235/85/r16
It's got enough height as it is and we don't bang the frame off road but yea, it would be tall. I can't speak on a taller trailer and what that's like because I've never dealt with one. I think chamlee has that set up though so maybe s him..,

Fwiw, we switched to "good ride" brand tires (cr960a) and they are awesome.


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JDDurfey

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I would build or buy a trailer with towing in Baja in mind. Here are my thoughts on trailers. I have thought about this quite a lot and often have wondered what people were thinking when towing in Baja. I myself have been pretty stupid when towing down there. I personally prefer a goose neck trailer, but not every one has a goose neck hitch on their truck, so that eliminates that. It needs to be as universal as possible in Baja, because the best plans go out the window at times when you cross the border.

I would build it as narrow a possible for the race vehicle, within reason. I would have the bed completely flat so no fenders have to be driven over. A tilt bed would be a great idea, but that also makes it heavier. If you don't want a tilt bed, a bit of a "dove tail" would be good. If it is not a tilt trailer, I would put some legs on the back to stabilize it while loading or unloading. I have a good and simple design in mind for that, but hard to explain. I know no one wants to break suspension parts or lose wheels, but it is a reality that happens. I had to help winch a car on a trailer that the suspension was broken and dragging it over the fenders was another obstacle that I wish we could have avoided. So I would build the bed flat, out of diamond plate, but that does make it taller and more top heavy, but that is what I would do. I would have brakes on both axles. 2, 7000 lb axles with 16" steel rims. Why steel? Steel can be straightened with a sledge hammer. Aluminum looks great and is lighter, but steel is better in my opinion. We have had good success with Hankook Max-Vantage 7.50R16 tires here at work on rough oil field lease roads. A 2 and 5/8 ball is a must. Keep the hitch as high as possible, it will help with ground clearance while recovering on the race course. I don't think I would run torsion suspension. The tried and true spring suspension works, and roadside repairs are much easier with this set up. I have a bunch of torsion suspension trailers in my fleet, but when the spindles bend, I must cut the welds and re-weld a whole new axle. All suspension components must be greasable. Do not have a single pivot point that cannot be easily greased before each trip. I think 3 axles is excessive and in my experience you just end up chewing up tires, as one axle gets drug around every corner.

I would have a 12,000 lb winch. The winch could be mounted easily on a "receiver" style mount so it could be also used on the front or rear of a properly wired chase/tow truck. I would put numerous heavy D rings on it for winching purposes. If your car is broke on the course and you can't get a straight pull being able to put a snatch block on a D ring on one side or the other might get the job done. Also a hole vertical in the rear with a pole you can slide in that has a notch on top to run the winch cable over to give you a way to pull up on the race car while winching might not be a bad idea also. Would have helped us a ton. In fact several places down the trailer to do this wouldn't be a bad idea. A tool box up front with the battery and storage for straps and chains is a must. Rail type tie downs are great too for securing spare tires for the race car if that is how you are going to haul them once you have the car loaded. Also pit boxes could possibly loaded around the race car and secured this way too. You can never have too many places to tie down from. Everything must be able to be locked including an anti theft device for the trailer. If you are going to build a good trailer, someone else will want to take it from you. Always keep it locked on your pick up, especially in Baja. I have heard of more theft in broad daylight down there in places where you would never expect things to get stolen. The orange paint that was mentioned might not be a bad idea. Or canary yellow.

I would also carry 4 spares for the trailer. That may seem excessive to some, but I hit something on the way home from the 07 Baja 1000 in the dark with a borrowed trailer and class 1 truggy loaded on it that bent both rims on one side. I only had one spare. (was told by the owner he was bringing "spares", he showed up with 1, I was not happy, but had no choice) Long story short, we spent the night in Viscaino and the next day drove the rest of the way with a bent rim as a spare and a slightly less bent rim on the trailer. It is amazing how much you can straighten a bent steel rim with a sledge hammer if you have no other choice. It was bent so bad the Mexicans in the tire shop were shocked I got the bead to seat. Spare tires mounted on the front of the trailer strategically can also protect your race car from flying rocks and debris from the roadway. Found this on a moto trailer that we used. Mounted 4 spares across the front of the trailer and the mud stayed on the spares and not on my bikes. Carry 4 spares! I would also carry a complete spare axle with all the suspension components to attach it. I wouldn't get one with brakes. If you need it, you won't care at that point if you have brakes on the replacement axle. You might find this excessive. But if you are trying to build the ultimate Baja trailer, it isn't. Bolt the axle down in the front of the trailer. You have two spare hubs as well, if you just need a hub and bearings. I won't take credit for the idea of the spare axle, I saw Jesse James pre-runner on a trailer set up like this with the spare axle bolted down. I have seen several trailers with broken spindles down there with people standing next to the race car waiting for someone to come back with parts. That can be a long wait, since you may have to go all the way to the States for parts!

This trailer is obviously not going to be cheap like this. However, we, as racers, invest a ton of money in race vehicles, why not haul your investment on a good piece of equipment. I would also "prep" the trailer before every trip. Check the bearings and brakes. And don't just grease it via the Buddy Bearing set up. That is a great design and all of our trailers here at work have them. But if you over grease them the excess grease ends up on your brakes if you have drum brakes. Obviously check the lights. I would have plenty of marker lights. Check all the spring pins and mounting holes. Often the holes and bolts look good, but when you pull them out you find the holes are wallowed and bolts are worn. You wouldn't head out on a race without a well prepped race car, but we do it with trailers all the time. I'm guilty as charged!

These are my thoughts, and you can take what you want from them. They may seem excessive, but I try to think of everything when I "design" something in my head. (I know, I am kinda weird, my wife reminds me of that regularly) I hope my ideas help you in your quest for the perfect trailer.

I just realized you asked for pictures, sorry I don't have any. Just thoughts in my head. Need to build a race car before I need a trailer like the one I described.
 
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43mod

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Try Southwest Wheel in Lubbock and Dallas for torsion axles . they use a splined torsion with slip on spindle arms. We have beat them silly with no failures . You can adjust ride height by clocking the arms up or down .
I carry spare hub , 2 sets bearings , spare spindle arm . Also use the large 3" rec tube to slide my hitch into the trailer tongue . I use 2 5/8 bolts to retain it , takes seconds w impact to remove for fairly safe theft resistance.
Electric over hy disc brakes are great. Pumps can be an issue /short life span have not perfected this yet.
I can drive fully loaded in I5 stop and go using only trailer brakes very smoothly.
Having a narrow trailer is a joy everywhere and double in Baja. keep the wheels as narrow as you can and only have the deck protrude just as much as it needs to. I know if my mirrors don't smack the oncoming semi the trailer is just fine. As for how high the race rig rides while towing ask the guys in the Hollander Motorsports / Bink Designs bronco how they felt riding from Viscaino to Loreto .
 

SPROCKET

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Our race team has 2 Yiro trailers. You can't beat the price and longevity. He worked with us on a custom fuel tank between axels and a setup to hold a full spare axel for Baja trips.
 

43mod

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The next one I build will be 2 " taller for the box and angle the rear box up to a point at the beaver tail. I put wear plates on the corners of this one and have never had an issue but always room for improvement .
35 " Raptor tires on craigslist Dodge wheels . Trailer tires suck. air down to 30 without race truck and it handles some pretty rough roads really well.
 

Chris_Wilson

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I had a custom baja trailer made with 92" outside width for both outside of tires and deck width, drive over fenders, dovetail rear on a pair of 7000# axles and a strap box up front. I use a locking hitch pin and have locks on the ramp doors, box and hitch latch. We call it the skinny trailer and it's way easier to tow than my old 102" trailer especially in baja or getting through congested towns.

My old F350 had a front mounted winch and a high mounted receiver hitch on the front. If you needed to winch up the carcass that used to be your racecar, you could plug the trailer into the front of the truck which would tilt it up to drop the dovetail close to the ground then drag the remains up with the winch.
 

Jeff Furrier

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Man 43mod, that's HD trailer! I'm not sure I need that, but its set up sell for sure. I dont think I'll be towing anything much more than 5-6k lbs + spares in the near future, neither of my trucks with more than 5k lbs.


How big of a deal is a dove tail? I can see it of the trailer is super tall, but if you're driving up ramps whats a little extra angle?

I can put a winch on the trailer, not sure why you'd need anything more than an 8k, or even a 6k with a snatch block in extreme cases. I like JD's idea of the elevated posts to run the cable over, I've had that issue with my current trailer.

I agree with JD on the steel over aluminum and 16" tires, 235/85r16's are plentiful and will carry more weight than most trailers.

How'd you come up with 92 Chris? I bet that would work for me, thats probably where Im at now, but the bed is between the fenders.
 

43mod

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my trailer weighs 100 pounds more than a Carson 10k 16ft deck trailer . The Carson did have a spare at the time mine did not . Angle is no issue for loading as is , just a bit more clearance on the bottom for those go rescue it where its at holes in the trail . 16 should be fine. I like free 35s that last a lot longer than trailer tires ever thought about .
 

DRTRCR86

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Go check out the Greers lightweight deck overs they built last year, light weight and easy to tow. Make the axles as wide as the track width of the truck that will tow it the most.
 

BSchlimme

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Jeff,
We built mine with 8-lug torsion axles for 3 reasons:
1 - Use same bolt patter as GM HD trucks
2 - Torsion are way more compliant on road (i.e. less spring bounce)
3 - No shackles/springs etc. to fail

Rating is way overkill.

Other idea we did was to pull the axles/wheels in slightly so you can hang the bed off the road in Baja a bit w/o dropping the wheel off the road. Been nice to have.

Lastly we didn't go the deckover route withe the larger 235/16 tires. Didn't want the vehicle that far into the air.

Wheel wells are drive over and relatively short so not a huge deal.

If you plan to ever put a rear engine buggy on it I'd think about axle placement to get tongue weight right.

I like the perimeter railing so you have some guidance when pulling on as well as something to tie off too.

Latest variation has built in ramps which I find nice since under deck mount ramps tend to get tattered up and are a PITA to get pulled out.

My 2-cents.

Make you a deal on mine.... Can deliver to Tucson in July.... w/Alumicraft on it. :)

Ben
 

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Jeff Furrier

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I decided on a Yiro Trailer and think I made the right choice. I went with the spare axle/leaf springs and 4 wheel brakes. I had them build it 94" wide instead of the standard 102, if I end up with a TT someday I'll pony up for a another trailer! Its painted Jeep Firecraker red, so the Bud Honcho will feel more comfortable on it.
I plan on adding a winch, electric jack, back up and work lights and some more storage in the near future.

I could have designed a custom trailer and fine tuned it, but didn't really want to spend the time doing it. I stopped by Yiro in Mexicali on my way back from SF in June and was pretty comfortable with the quality of work on the trailers they were building at that time.

I have to say they service was great! Elias at Yiro did what he said he was going to do, when he said he was going to do it. No delays, no excuses, no "we got busy so its not done". I gave him about 6 weeks and he delivered to the day.

I haven't torture tested it yet, but I'm happy with it so far. I'd recommend Yiro to anyone looking for a trailer.


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NIKAL

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Jeff, was the price on target with what they advertise in the classifieds? $5889. I assume yours might have been a bit more due to the spare axle and mounting, the color and possibly for making it narrower then their standard trailer?

Yiro's ad
TT/CLASS 1 TRAILERS
 

Jeff Furrier

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Its an up-charge for the spare axle, spare leaf springs and 4 wheel brakes, no extra for making it narrower. I supplied my own tires and wheels(because I'm in the business, their deal is actually pretty good), so I'm not sure how the match would work out for you. I think those 2 options were another 800 or so. They also set it up for a winch by welding in a plate which was a small up-charge.

Honestly, the 5895 deal is really good for what you get. The only option I'd probably for sure get at the minimum is the brakes on both axles instead of one.

What they were charging for the upgrades was very reasonable, the only reason I'm doing some of it is because I have access to the same parts through our company.
 
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Looks great!

Are those trailer spares locked on somehow?
 
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