I would if I had CAD access, but I don't. Plus the guy who built them should fix them the right way, not me. I paid $3000 for the arms and spindles and they should be done correct and strong. I don't have time to do it on my own.
oh sorry, i thought when you posted you had built 100% of the truck yourself that included the front suspension. not to be a dick but $3000 for that work is rediculous and way over priced. i would be furious if i paid $3000 for a setup that used the stock cast spindle to build the rest of it.
How is that a rip off? I know guys who pay $5gs for a Ibeam ranger front end? And actually I have stated that I built everything BUT the front arms and spindles. I did not know he used cast otherwise I would have not wanted it built that way. It was to reuse stock brakes mounts and rotors, but anyway Hes gonna fix it, like a good fabricator would, and gusset top and bottom for the time being(street only for a while). Then build some the correct way using something forged, and with gussets. Not to be a dick or anything.
that set up costs $3600 for the arms and spindles. this is basically what your fabricator was trying to copy. you paid almost the same price for a half baked garage shop product that failed on the first trip out on a small jump. you could have gone to a real shop and paid a few hundred more and had a 4130 cad designed setup that would never break, and didnt reuse any stock parts. but its not my money so do what you will, not to be a dick or anything
sorry, wasnt trying to cause and arguement just showing my point but anyways, ya that is a sweet pic of fish i was so proud of him that i had to make it my avitar...ReelFisherman1: its a 25lb jackpot winning yellowtail
uhhh those are h&m arms. that price for $3600 is for just the arms and hardware. thedankster said he paid $3000 for arms and spindles, not for arms spindles coilovers bump stops fab work and install.
im still confused what does camburg have to do with anything in this post?
My fabricator made the mistake of believing the stock spindlesfrom chevy were forged, and proceeded in the fab. When in fact they were cast POS. If he will not find a setup to rebuild to the same dimensions with a forged spindle, I will contact a "real fab shop" to fix his mistake. Nonetheless he does some sick work by the way, Amplified Perf stole his 6inch over stockToyota a arm kit design when they split ways a few years back, it pulls 20 inches of clean travel. He is growing his Garage into a "real shop" and I have seen real good work come from his and many other home fab. I wouldn't run to a shop if I could do it myself.
not to jump on the safety train, but if its gonna be rigged back together, maybe you should seek out a better solution. its your and everyone elses life on the line when your driving down the freeway and something breaks. you should at least have the gusseting done by someone who really knows cast welding.
No to defend his shotty work on the first spindle, but there is 90% coverage of the original cast spindle, so I think I can limp it for a few weeks on this bandaid until he gets me a usable product made correctly. He knows what he did was wrong and he will fix it. I paid for a kit that works, and thats what I demand from him.
Technically the spindles you gentleman are talking about are ductile iron, not just grey or cast irons in blocks or heads. Spindles are typically ASTM 536 GR 65-45-12 or 60-40-18 and in most cases are as strong or stronger than most things out there. The catch here is, that is only in their unmodified state. Fish was right on with the don't weld statement. Before anyone goes postal, I know that it is done all the time, most sucessfully by TIG with pre and post heat treatment. This only minimizes the impact of the heat affected zone around the weld. Due to the graphite morphology as nodules in the base ductile iron the heat affected zone leaves a boundary area that is flake graphite or regular grey iron this small area has ultimate strength of 40,000 psi but only 2-3% elongation, (won't bend). Other weld techniques can produce other phases in the weld zone with even worse properties, bainitic or martinsitic. The best bets would be to use a spindle unmodified or to weld up a forging. The weld ments and the forging weldups should be heat treated for stress relief.