starting out in off-road racing

snoreracer

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Most all of you make good points. A lot of the people that ask me about getting into racing are ex dirt bike riders that have got a little older and still want to compete. I thought about telling them about class 9, but my experience in racing class 9 is the front end will need constant repair. With no disrespect to anyone they would like to go faster than jeep speed or 7s and class 11 , all of witch cost $$ if you dive hard. that's why i tell them 2-1600. you are right about the time needed to get up to speed. so I tell them to go a half a year as sportsman and look at the times to see if they are ready. just as an example, out of the 7 to 9 sportsman limited that race snore 6 are 1600 cars working on getting up to pro speed. Some have rased the deck height to run pump fuel, to do 2 things cut cost of gas and save trannys . 2 of the cars racing sportsman run the same motor and transmission all year and are still competitive. from racing 1600 I can tell you that they are just about indestructive. right now the weak link is the transmission when you drive at the pace. just look at some of the times at a ruff desert race and a 1600 will be running in the top 15 .
 

michael_loomis

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" Funny, I always say the same thing about Fords. "

LMAO!!!

1600 is the way to go .... IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT ! money is the ONLY reason i can see for not starting out here. class 9 wouldnt be so bad .... but i have standards !! lol

5 /1600 are great prerunners .... but too slow , heavy , hard to work on (accesibility wise) and the cost equals that of a 1/2 1600, except probably initial cost.
 

JrSyko

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Trey,

I wasn't trying to be a smartass, I was honesty asking you 9 guys what the appeal is. After reading about the costs and such, it seems that for similar costs you could race a little bit faster of a class and not beat yourself up so bad. I will be the first to person congradulate one of you guys for finishing a long and difficult race. As far as I'm concerned, those are the Ironman classes. I guess maybe thats the appeal.

I can only lead you to water, I cannot force you to drink it.
 

btshannon

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Replace them every race ?
Before the race, or during the race, or maybe both sometimes?
ha-ha

My own taste for the hops is very powerful, and I had no intention of spending a beerless weekend...
 

MNotary

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I don't know... You have to cage it?

It won't be faster than a 9 car.

Anyways.........live axle is not a race car..unless you like NASCAR.

If you want to learn to be fast and see how good you are...run 1600. A couple of 10hr races will give you all the seat time you need.
 

AllwaysRcn

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I've logged thousands of miles in a class 1 car (w/ Chuck Hovey). To me, it's not bout how fast I canspend (go), that's why I drag race. When your in the racecar, in a race, there is no "appeal". Your racing. Like any other race vehicle, when properly set-up correct aand workin good, your not gettiin beat up. You'd be supprised how smooth most 9 cars are. Adam Pfankuc(sp) burns faster lap times in the KIT 9 car than all 1/2 1600 and most of 12's. They do look alot rougher from outside, standing on the side of the course spectating, but I would rather race than spectate. You'd also be suprised how many 7s trucks, 5/1600, and an occasional 1-2/1600 I've had to (politly tap in 4th gear). The "appeal" part of dezert racing doesn't exist when your team does 15 to 18 desert races a year in 3 different classes..

Now it's off to Parump. Must be appealing cause BITD doesn't run 9 or 5/1600. Stock full SUV (4100), and stock mini SUV (3100) are not fast either. But I bet they're paychecks are appealing for the win.
 

TROPHYSEDAN

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The price of a 5-16 went up .They are using micro stubs.So that means more money for arms,axls and the micro kit.I would rather be a racer for a day then a spectator for life.I am not bagging on spectators the sport needs them.Racing is racing at any level.I have been racing for a little while. I have raced class 11 cars in the desert and short course and 5-1600 .Know i am trying the jeep thing.People talk [daddy didnt love me] about a 11 car but they have no idea what they can do .All they think is its rough.I have passed alot of mini trucks with it.You drive them at there pace not a trophy truck pace.Some times i think i am in a trophy truck but i am in a TROPHY SEDAN. I think if you can drive a 11 car around barstow you can drive anything . 5 -16 ,9 and 11 cars are a drivers class,So lets keep racing.Thanks Dennis

Race junky
 

AllwaysRcn

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"I would rather be a racer for a day then a spectator for life"
wink.gif
 

pjc

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<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>


i tell them 2-1600. you are right about the time needed to get up to speed. so I tell them to go a half a year as sportsman and look at the times to see if they are ready.


<hr></blockquote>

Very well said! Excellent post.

This makes perfect sense. My oldest kids are just 4 years away from getting behind the wheel. IMHO, starting in and possibly racing the right 2/1600 car for a couple of years is easy on their learning curve and my pocket book in the long run.

PJCinLV
 

DirTRacer9

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"Now it's off to Parump. Must be appealing cause BITD doesn't run 9 or 5/1600. Stock full SUV (4100), and stock mini SUV (3100) are not fast either. But I bet they're paychecks are appealing for the win."

Last BITD race (Parker 425) there was a solo 9 car in the mix. I heard some guy really wanted to run the race so they added the 9000 class for him. I only saw him go by once so it must of had its fair share of troubles. We'll see this weekend if the class is still alive. All you 9 racers interested in racing BITD should give them a call. They will spread the love for us little guys. Watch your ass on those loop races. Little bit of advice for the newbies.
 

snoreracer

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Pat it's the way to go. Snore has a $25 entry fee for sportsman just to try to get new blood in racing. most of they sportsman guys race about 1 year and move up. some are happy to stay sportsman. as per just change out ball joints on class 9 . I was so lucky I usually changed at least 1 a race, and 4 before each race. then there was the spindles that lasted about 2 races. But I will tell you a class 9 was the only thing that I have raced that you didn't have it floored all the time. you lift or die.
 

ESB4130

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i plan on getting a taste of desert racing pretty soon, but i dont neccisarily want to race every single race and be a competitive pressence in the scene, i just want to try racing for fun. i think this is the atitude that alot of people with pre-runners and such have, and i think thats the true nature behind the 1450 class. be street legal and meet safety requirements, and get on the track. in MDR its only $200 to enter, the only other REAL thing you need to get on the track is your safety gear and fuel. so you buy a helmet, race suit, and make sure your truck meets spec (which, if you built your truck for offroad you probably already have done or dont need much to get it there), and your ready to race. no, without a big pit crew and tons of spare parts and tools your not going to be a consistent pressence on the track race after race, but youll get a taste of racing, and hell, if you dont beat the crap out of your truck youll finish, probably pretty well too. racing is expensive and thast all there is to it. but even a guy like me or fish can afford to try racing once a year or so for fun (which, if i remember correctly, is the only reason i got into this sport in the first place). the cool thing about this class too, is that you dont need a RACE truck to do it, it just needs to be street legal and meet safety specs, which if your into prerunners you probably already have anyways.
 

martininsocal

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One thing that should be pointed out is whether someone is a true "beginner" or coming from another side of the sport. If you have been running offroad "fun" cars and prerunning trucks, etc...and have a nice, fast ride, sure, you aren't gonna wanno step into a slow class if you have run faster for fun. Racing is racing, don't get me wrong, but you arrive jaded. A buddy of mine raced bikes for years and is finally at an age where it takes too long to recover when he falls off. He asked me to find a car for him. After talking with him and taking him to races and thinking a 2-1600 was right, I changed my mind after a few comments he made. He wants to be somewhat competitive early in the curve, he feels the 1600 cars are a little slower than what he wants to run, he does have a budget to live under to start, and he wants to transition from bike to car easily(this may never happen, but he will try). We settled on a 5 unlimited car. He could afford a good car atthe outset, the car will have plenty of power and suspension to be forgiving, and will be easier to drive than with a limited car. Sure, they may not be 50 of them at a race, but there have been 8-10 at the MDR races, and he isn't looking to make every race, so picking and choosing is an option. He really just wants to go out and chase around in the desert under a competitive environment. Since initial costs included good parts, upkeep won't be too extreme. He is starting out with a big pump gas motor so he won't spend a ton of money on motors and trannies until he is up to the pace that requires it. He is following a plan that should work as long as he has the skills to carry it through. From that vantage point, even a 12 car is a good "starter" car depending on what you are starting with in the persinal skills department.

If your gonna go, go BIG
 

Catawampus

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It's a great feeling finishing a race like the Ridgecrest 300 in a nine car. I felt the same way about nine cars until I actually raced one, those little cars are tuff as hell. Depending on how you drive you can get those cars going pretty fast for what there limited to. Just my opinion. Kevin Kopitch MDR 900
 

Martin

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It doesn't cost anymore to buy microstubs than the standard stubaxle if you are building a new car.
 

Martin

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If your buddy wanted a car faster than a1600 he shouldn't have bought a 5 unlimited most fast 1600 beat the 5 cars every race.
 

martininsocal

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The speed issue is two fold, It is much easier to run a 5 car as fast as a 1/2-1600. The 1600 car drivers just run a hell of a lot harder becuase of the competition. He didn't want a long learning curve to get to that speed and he wanted something that went faster when you push on the pedal. It is kinda like comparing Winston cup cars, you have open cars and you have restrictor plate cars. Ask those drivers which they like driving better. I am not saying 1600 guys are slow, I am saying they make those cars go alot faster than they realistically should. It is like it was in the '80's, you have 40 guys going balls out, and 5-8 of them will finish that way.

If your gonna go, go BIG
 

snoreracer

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Martian most of the bike guys that I know can be half way competitive in 1600 , they read the desert very well. class 5 is OK but other than mdr you race with no one. the cost of a 5 other than junk is 40% more than a 1600. class 12 is a good pick but the cost is high for something that will finish well. here is just some facts a 1600 has 10 to 11 in front weal travel and 14 to 15 in the rear. With about 117 in wheel base. a 5 has 15 to 16 in wheel travel in the front and 17 to 19 in the rear, the ride is about the same at speed because of the short 105 in. wheel base of the 5 .
 

martininsocal

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Kenny- thats where he wants to race. And if you haven't notived, there are more 5 cars than 1600's running MDR this year. As I said, he watched several races and wasn't really happy with the 1600 cars speed, especially in washes and stuff. He wants to be able to hitthe pedal and get going or out of the way. Like I said, restrictor plate vs. open. As to speed, in my opinion, the 12's and 5's should be much faster than the 1600's. Why aren't they? Couple of reasons, 1 is drivers. The 1600 class has the most competitive drivers driving hard to win, period. They drive the cars on the edge because thatis what it takes to win in a class with 45 cars +. 20 go balls out and 6-7 will meet the odds and finish. Just simple math and odds. Another thing is cost, he bought a good car for less than a mediocre 1600 is going for, and as some pointed out, they are running hard enough to have to do major rebuilds halfway through the season. He shouldn't have that cost associated at first while he build up speed.
Take a 1600 car, make it 6 inches wider front and back, run an 1835, and what do you have?

If your gonna go, go BIG
 
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