Stay 4X4 or.......

SByota

Member
I have a 90 4X4 Yota. After much reading of old posts and calling around and talking to people I have decided on the TC caddy kit. I think we all agree it is a good kit. My question is should I stay 4X4 or not. If I stay 4X4 I will be forced to run T-bars. If I go 2wd I have the option of running coil-overs. Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? It seems that everyone running T-bars has stripped one, I know TC is coming out with new mounts, but will that solve the problem. Also the truck has A.D.D. and will see lots of freeway miles. I have a fear of having to constantly replace CV boots and or axels, or step up to 930 CV's which costs lots of $$$$$$$$$. thanks in advance
 

drtdevil93

Well-Known Member
the stronger torsion bar mounts are a simple fix, and im sure the TC ones will end any problems. torsion bars are great because of their progression. what about using a torsion bar and a bypass shock?
couldnt you get a warn manual hub for it? and its not like you wouldnt be able to add the axle at a later time.

erik
 

curt

Well-Known Member
Switch those hubs, go to a junkyard and get some stock manual hubs, they're way cheaper than Warn and work just fine. The ADD at the outside ends is just a slug of steel that has splines in it, the hub change takes a half hour with beer...Curt
 

cleartoy

Well-Known Member
What type of off roading do you do?

For me, id lose the 4wd. Not only is a coil over gonna be stronger than torsion mounts, but you can change spring rates. Torsions come in 1 rate. Plus, run a dual rate setup so it will handle good.
 

Kritter

Krittro Campbell
Stay 4x4 if you are gonna actually prerun. BITD sometimes has a 4x4 requirement on preruns.

Nevada and Mexico silt is nasty unless you have mondo horsepower and even then it is nasty...4x4 is nice and you can make money/beer pullin stuck 2wd out. The loss in a little travel wont make a big diffference. Big torsions will give you strength back.
 

Dillon

Well-Known Member
You could also see about going to a shop after you buy the arms and have the lower shock mounts relocated to allow you to run axles with coilovers.
 

SByota

Member
The idea behind the truck is to create somrthing that I can drive everday and still take to the desert or dunes have fun with and the most important part, make it home. I feel the torsion bar setup with have better street manners than the coilover. My real concern is that it seems everyone who is running torsion bars has a lot of problems with the splines in the mounting cups stripping out. I will call TC today and see what the ETA is on the new torsion mounts. BTW NIcole at TC has been super cool answer all of my question, little plug for TC
 

NorCal_Prerunner

Well-Known Member
300Ms, Bypass, and keep the 4x4 for your application. Take some spare torsion adjusters and you are good. It is really personal preference. I ditched my 4x4 with the Caddy kit, I am runnning 300Ms and a non-bypass shock, I am locked in the rear and have no problems.
 

sirhk100

Well-Known Member
Like said above, get the manual hubs if you don't have them. 300M torsions, bypass shocks and spare torsion adjusters. I'm gonna look into having my own made when it's time...

Khris
 

yotatech

Well-Known Member
I have had the caddy kit on my truck for about seven months and had no probs with the torsions stripping,(hopefully it wont happen this weekend now) i like the 4wd for when i get the urge to go climbing, etc., its also nice for pulling out stuck trucks.
 

JasonHutter

Well-Known Member
We have been using stock torsion bar sockets on our race truck for over 4 years now and have never stripped one out. The only one we have changed is one we bent when we broke a lower arm on our truck and it was moving front to back when broken and bent the socket. We as of yet, haven't even been taking extra's to the race, though we have been talking about getting some for the just in case. We are running the 300M's on the truck also. I would think about keeping the 4 wheel drive for all the reasons everyone has been giving you. I thought about getting the same kit as you and ditching the 4x4 and have thought against it for the reasons that we pre-run with my daily driver and use it to pull out our trucks or anyone needing it!


Jason

 

CanyonMan

Well-Known Member
I have a fullsize 97 GMC 4x4. Has anyone had problems with the torsion bar mounts in those? Does anybody know of someone who makes better torsion bars for them?I use mine for my all around truck also.
 

SuperDave

Well-Known Member
Brad,
Keep the front drive, one day in the future you'll be glad you did. I have a '94 Toyota with the TC kit, 930CV kit, Warn manual hubs, 26mm SAW axles, and SAW air bumps. The SAW air bumps were the best things I ever bought. I highly recommend them. For a while I just had the A-arm kit with the front drive removed so I installed a locker in the rear diff. I still got stuck in the soft stuff. Lots of times I couldn't pull other trucks out without getting stuck myself. I put the front drive in, never been stuck since. Last Saturday I just used my Toyota to pull a 2WD Ford Super Duty with 20' flat bed trailer out of a soft silty area. You can't do that in 2WD. Regarding your front hubs and the ADD, just install a set or Warn manual hubs (they're less than $100 for the pair) then by pass the vacum switches and reserve tank and rerout the vacum line to the passenger side of the ADD valve and put a vacum cap on the drivers side of the valve. Now you don't have to worry about the ADD valve ever failing and your transfer case immediatly shifts into 4wd. Keep the hubs unlocked on the street and then you won't wear out the CVs.
 

freddy

Well-Known Member
My Caddy-kit is coming soon and I have also thought about if i should loose the 4wd. If I loose the 4wd and want to run coilovers, do I have to build an engine cage or could I use shockhoops? How hard is it to install airbumps? Where can I buy a 930CV kit and is it worth it, instead of running T100 axles?

Fredrik
 

fishd00d

What A Joke
I have never seen a T100 axle break yet. Sure the 903's are nice but a waste of $$ if you ask me.

Airbumps are easy you just have to cut out the wheel wells a bit more. And make a contact pad off the arm if its the balljoint kit or make a contact nut if its the uniball.
 

SuperDave

Well-Known Member
I bought my TC kit back in 1999 through Baja Concepts. They didn't have the Caddy Kit at the time and T100 axles don't fit with my kit. The 930CV kit was the only option if you wanted to keep the front drive. Call TC for more info on the 930CV kit. Mounting the SAW air bumps was fairly easy. I bought the mounting cans from Camburg. A picture is attached.
 

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JasonHutter

Well-Known Member
I suppose I could clarify something with our set-up on our truck. We mainly use the torsion bars to get the ride hight for our truck. We run a triple by-pass and a bump shock on the front of our truck and the shock is giving our truck most of the stiffness on the front end. We do not crank on the torsion bar too hard for stiffness. At first our engine cage was taking a beating, untill we rebuilt it to keep it from cracking. We do burn up the oil in the shocks on the front quicker because of the added friction, but it seams to take some of the load off the rest of the suspension and torsions.

Jason







 

ntsqd

Well-Known Member
No on the Warn hubs. Go with the stock Aisin hubs. They're better & stronger than the Warns, and don't suffer from the bolts/nuts coming loose like the Warns do.

The trick for getting the PITA cone washers (THE reason the hubs don't come loose) is to use a hammer & a punch and rap the end of the stud. This will rattle the cone washer loose and out.

Keep those ADD drive plates, you may want to float the rear in the future and those are the ticket for doing that.
 
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