Steering swing boxes. . .travel ratio?

atomicjoe23

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Is there a range of ratios that people shoot for on the swingset style steering pivot boxes. . .input side travel distance to output side travel distance?

You know, you turn the wheel and the drag link (I don't really know if that's what you call the tube that goes from the steering box output to the swinger box in this style of steering system) moves "X" inches and the tie rod moves "Y" inches?

I'm sure the location where the tie rod attaches to the knuckle comes into play as well as the distance the drag links can move as well.

Thanks for your help!
 

atomicjoe23

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Bump again. . .any info would be greatly appreciated, even if it's just to say it doesn't matter (as long as the info is accurate and correct).

I could really use some help on this. . .

Thanks!
 

bigtex

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I have never put any math to it. I have built 3 set ups and never had an issue. just know that if you make the swinger too short you will have no turning radus.Iam assuming you are talking I beams. Just make sure your pivots are the same as your beam pivots.
 

atomicjoe23

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OK. . .that's kinda what I wanted to know.

I figured that the ratio would affect how quickly your tires swept through their turning radius so you could achieve your full turning radius in either one full turn of the steering wheel or more depending on the ratio you decided to go with.
 

f1sleepy

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You should be able to have your steering gear box re-built with a different gear ratio to help get the desired steering ratio.
 

atomicjoe23

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This is for an SAE buggy. . .no steering box. . .just a R&P from Desert Karts.

This set-up is being used to help me get better weight distribution (more weight on the front tires) without using super short front suspension members. . .I refuse to compromise my suspension design just becuase the engine that we have to use doesn't make enough power.
 

atomicjoe23

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I might be doing a swing-set with a R&P. . .don't know for sure yet. . .I have to finish putting the chassis into Solidworks to see how the packaging will work and exactly where I will have the R&P mounted.
 

atomicjoe23

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I don't think so. . .I started with the suspension system and am now working on the steering and then the frame to connect the dots. . .

. . .because it's an SAE buggy I have a lot of mandated dimensions to meet for the the frame so I already know from the rules and from last years experience what some of the frame dim's are that's all. . .from everything I've read and seen on this forum by starting with the wheels and then working my way in that is the preferred way to design a buggy. . .right?

I just wasn't sure if there was a "standard" ratio range for steering swingers. . .don't even know if I'm gonna need them or not. . .like I said I have the tie rods done, and am working on placement of the R&P and that will determine what I need.
 

Triaged

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Ok - it just sounded like you were designing the chassis first. Starting at the wheels and working in is the way to go IMO.

If there was any "standard" ratio for swingers it might be 1:1 with the steering arms on the knuckles. It really all comes down to what movement you need the inner tie rod end to make (and why you want it to move in more than 1 degree of freedom in the first place).
 

indefab

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U will want good leverage if your steering pump fails, bigger steering wheel and a steering quickener would work well for that I think.
 

atomicjoe23

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This is an SAE buggy. . .no steering pump, it's manual steering and has 22" ATV wheels/tires. Last year's set-up was just about perfect in the number of turns from lock-to-lock, that's why I decided to stick with a 1:1 ratio.

I will keep that in mind when I do a full-size build though. . .I currently have a set of TTB arms waiting to get stuffed under something after I finish the two project ahead of it.
 
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