I know its kinda ghetto but I saw on a truck a front sway bar off a f350 ford superduty he used the stock bushings and made mounts on the frame and then just made 2 hiemed rod ends for each side to connect the sway bar to the rear end he said it worked really well had been racing on it for 2 years without any problems and he said with out it the truck was impossible to drive? just an idea....Mike
yeah i dont wanna spend a SHITLOAD of money. i broke a stock car products one. i drove it twice and dindt even hit anything burly, and it was way bigger than any torsion bar off of a toyota or anything. id like something somewhat MADE for being a sway bar. i emailed sway away and they said they dont make sway bars (WTF is it called sway away for then?). if they did that would be cool. id be cool to spend in the mid hundreds but its not worth it to me to spend more than that. it handles ok without one, but it just corners lots better with one.
Mike brought up a good idea I never thought of, using a stock sway bar from another vehicle. I wonder if a rear sway bar from a full size would work on a mini truck? I wanted to try a rear sway bar on my truck but I haven't because of the cost.
ever thought about making your own? i take torsion bars made for dirt modifieds mount bearing caps on each end and use radius arms with end links cnnected to the rear axle, it works awesome and the torsion bars coem in many different rates so you can tailor it to any firmness or softness you want, havent tried it on a desert truck yet but if it works on trucks with insane amounts of lift and huge tires it might do well on a desert truck, the best part is when it does break its always the torsion bar and you can find them used from race teams cheap ie 20$.
also have a little different design used on drag cars that might work well for you, pm me if your interested and i`ll see if i can dig a picture up.
well, the problem with torsion bars is that their WAY smaller than the sway bar that i broke, and have different ends on each side, and the bar is smaller than the ends. so first youd have to get both torsion sockets, each of which are different, find a way to mount it, and after all that youd still have something much weaker than something i already broke. the one i broke was 1.25" in diameter. and then using a stock sway bar....thier a different kind of sway bar, not really the same kind you use on 3 link system, they have all those bends in them and dont have splined ends. anyways, i see all these people with sway bars on their 3 and 4 linked trucks and i know they cant ALL be cal pre fun, so i guess ill just keep looking
We've been running a 1" Speedway Engineering sway bar with 17" arms on our 4-linked ranger all year without one bit of a problem. Short course, desert and Pro Arena. It was like $300 for everything. COULD NOT be happier with it.
first i'd like to say that the cali-prefun bar on my pro-2 has worked out awsome, AND it cost right around $1000 with the arms. this gets you in your price range and is a very nice product. i agree that it could be done cheaper for a non-race application. call an axle company and get a 35 splined shaft custom made out of their "normal" axle material instead of 300m and it should save you a couple hundred bucks, then take the time to make your own links and you'll save another 400 or so. your choice, your money, or your time, but Curt knows a lot about what you need for a bar for your application.
if you broke a SCP bar your links may have been too short exceeding the amount of flexibility in the bar, you could try longer links and a stiffer bar to have the same rate as your old bar without breaking it.
That is a great question, but the problem that all those cheap swaybars have is that they are not designed for the articulation of a linked rearend. The only thing that I can figure will work is a Leduc or Sandy Cone bar & arms. I havent done this though due to the $1800.00 for the three pieces. If any one knows a affordable trick there are more that one person needing help out here. By the way I tried a stockcar products bar and arms, it broke in a hundred miles.