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Switch Panels. . .options???

atomicjoe23

Well-Known Member
#1
So I am aware of several switch panel options including 12 Volt Guy (which I am leaning toward). . .only problem is I can't find exactly what I am looking for. . .

. . .I would like a switch panel with the following:

Ignition toggle switch with cover
Start button
4 toggle switches (with lights and front mount fuses. . .can either be a separate light or lit toggle switches I don't care)
4-terminal Battery disconnect switch (this is the one that seems to be hard to find included on a switch panel). . .200 amp continuous rating

I like the 12 Volt Guy Comp 6 Tipped LED Toggle panels. . .I would just prefer to have a 4-terminal battery disconnect switch as well instead of a separate panel.

Thanks for any recommendations on who to look at or why you wouldn't recommend having the battery disconnect on the same panel. . .
 
#2
Have you considered the switch pro systems? We have done a ton of these. You could have any output on it engage the switch for a battery disconnect like you're looking for but that would be disconnect that is controlled by the switch pro. It can be done.

These switch pro set ups are really trick. The buy in is about $550 but after you look at all the individual costs of toggles and relays and fuses and what not combined with the simplicity of the wiring and the huge scope of possibilities they come with, the are bad arse...

FWIW, I asked our wiring ninja at the shop and he has never seen a panel like you're looking for. The disconnect, like you mention, is the part that is usually separate. And that usually because you want it in a place where someone outside the car can get to it.

SP-9100 8 Switch Panel Power System
 

atomicjoe23

Well-Known Member
#3
Have you considered the switch pro systems? We have done a ton of these. You could have any output on it engage the switch for a battery disconnect like you're looking for but that would be disconnect that is controlled by the switch pro. It can be done.
Sounds very cool, but the rules in our series require a manual disconnect; they prefer a rotary disconnect (vs. a push/pull), and it has to have the correct sticker on it for the safety crews. . .so something like that won't work for our application.

FWIW, I asked our wiring ninja at the shop and he has never seen a panel like you're looking for. The disconnect, like you mention, is the part that is usually separate. And that usually because you want it in a place where someone outside the car can get to it.
That's kinda what I was thinking. . .only reason I was trying to find something like that is the rules specifically state that they recommend placing the disconnect on the center of the dash or console. I figured if that was the case and I could have the disconnect integrated into a switch panel it would be one less thing to mount up.

I thought it was odd. . .I would think a better place would be off the A-pillar where safety crew could easily get to it from outside the vehicle instead of having to lean inside the vehicle. . .

I'll stick with a separate disconnect.

Thanks for the link!
 

jon coleman

Well-Known Member
#4
how ever u wire it, put a battery cutt off master switch on the ground side as close to each battery as possible and accesible easily, trust me, battery shorts aint no joke.w switch on ground side it cuts Everything u wired up immediately!,also ive seen push pull lever to a rotary switch with small carb type hiem joint, accesible to corner workers w- proper sticker , that way switch can be close to wireing harness, not far away.
 
#5
the rules specifically state that they recommend placing the disconnect on the center of the dash or console. I figured if that was the case and I could have the disconnect integrated into a switch panel it would be one less thing to mount up.

I thought it was odd. . .I would think a better place would be off the A-pillar where safety crew could easily get to it from outside the vehicle instead of having to lean inside the vehicle. . .

I'll stick with a separate disconnect.

!
In the center the driver and co driver can both reach it so that makes sense. Lots of builds are done that way. IMO the battery master is less necessary for an outside party to have access to and well located a BIG (5lb) fire extinguishers are more important. They are both important but thats the order of importance as i see it.

For all the other stuff consider the switch pros. Everyone who buys these seems to hit me later with a giant thank you once they get in there and see what they can do with them and how easy tehy are in comparison to traditional switch/relay set ups.

If ya have any questions contact our sales staff [email protected] or by phone (480) 633-2929.
 

goofballracer

PAT DAILEY #1 FAN
#9
I second the switch pros I use them on all of my builds and I use the blue sea battery cut off switch.
 

Zambo

Well-Known Member
#11
Switch pro. Do it. Connect all the output wires to a terminal block. Then you can run the accessories to the terminal block but still disconnect them or move the wiring around easy. Man do I wish this device was available back when I built my prerunner, it would have saved me not hours but days and days worth of wiring.
 
#12
Switch pro. Do it. Connect all the output wires to a terminal block. Then you can run the accessories to the terminal block but still disconnect them or move the wiring around easy. Man do I wish this device was available back when I built my prerunner, it would have saved me not hours but days and days worth of wiring.
We are doing more and more of these every day on all kinds of vehicles to the point where we are 3D printing our own panels so they the keypad looks like it is a factory set up.

This is what we do do get rid of the factory upfitter switches that come in raptors.



Toyota Tundra



I just flew to California last week to pick up Pat Daileys Raptor for a wiring makeover and a new chase rack.
put one of these under the hood. Wiring is way cleaner this way.

 
#17
Im making a joke about the empty switches in the photo above :)
Oh, ok. I get it. Yea, he needs more gizmos. People can only go as fast as their wallet lets them.

The buttons are multi functional. Hit it once, light bar comes on. Hit it again and it strobes. Stuff like that.

There are all these options. For instance from the app I can turn on every aftermarket light on Daileys truck from my phone. Its the whole keypad in your hand.

It will shut off the lights if you run the battery down before you get to a point where you wont have enough juice to start the truck.

My favorite feature is the selectable trigger dealio. I'll explain- Baja highways have a special kind of "its dark out" and just having your brights on helps but only so much. Add a trailer to the truck and the rear end squatting makes the headlights point up and that makes things even worse. So you add pods and light bars and what not. But now you're that a-hole who is blinding everyone coming the other way. But you arent a total A-hole so you reach over, taking your eyes off the road for a second to find and flip the switches and shut down the pods and whatever. The car goes by and then you turn them on again, taking your eyes off the road to do it. Rinse and repeat.

I am reluctant to admit how many times that I have put two tires off the side of the road into the dirt fumbling with the switches just so I can see and also not blind people. The upfitter switches in the new fords are convenient but they arent strong enough for many of the aftermarket lights/bars. They pop relays and fuses.

The set up we put on Pats Raptor makes this problem go away. From the app we change the behind the grill light bar to be incorporated into the turn signal stalk (the one you pull to turn on the factory brights).

When I click on the brights the light bar comes on. When I click off the brights the light bar turns off. This gives the driver a quick,natural, and safe trigger to get illumination. I get to see and when I need to i can shut it all off without taking my eyes off the road for a second.

This trigger feature can also be easily deactivated so you are at normal DOT settings without doing anything more than changing the setting from your phone.

Disclaimer- Yes I know its a Dickmove to run lightbars on the highway down there. But everyone does it anyway (and its almost necessary if you want to be safe). Being able to shut them off right away is sofaking handy and it makes the sketchy highway stuff we all do down there safer for us and for eachother.

Hit me up if you want this set up.
 
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