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Switch Pros

nexrace

Well-Known Member
I saw this & thought it was cool:
RIGrunner 4008H Horizontal | Powerwerx

RIGrunner 4008H Horizontal
RIGrunner is the most convenient and safest way to connect all of your 12 volt equipment to a power source. This RIGrunner is available with side mounted Powerpole connectors which enable horizontal mounting. 40 amp 12 VDC continuous duty with 8 outlets. Read Full Description
$89.99



Also, the moto brain looks like the hobby version is shipping June 14th.
Motobrain
 

Robin Hood

Well-Known Member
Anyone have any real life experiance and feedback on reliability with the Switch Pros unit in an open cab environment?
 

Zambo

Well-Known Member
Anyone have any real life experiance and feedback on reliability with the Switch Pros unit in an open cab environment?
Yes, absolutely zero issues in 8000 plus miles in my CanAm that I use for prerunning and some racing. Unless you are going to pay a pro wiring guy to do your rig for you, this is by far and away the best option.
 

Zambo

Well-Known Member
BTW the newer version of the switchpro has 4 x 35A circuits and 4 x 20A circuits. It also has two external triggers, can dim light outputs, and has sleep and timer modes. Pretty badass.
 

Robin Hood

Well-Known Member
BTW the newer version of the switchpro has 4 x 35A circuits and 4 x 20A circuits. It also has two external triggers, can dim light outputs, and has sleep and timer modes. Pretty badass.
Thanks for the reply. Would you use the Switch Pros for he ignition as well? I am thinking of putting this into a 1600 car.
 

Zambo

Well-Known Member
I don’t see why you wouldn’t use it for anything on the car that you want to use it for. The thing is solid.
 

Robin Hood

Well-Known Member
I don’t see why you wouldn’t use it for anything on the car that you want to use it for. The thing is solid.
My concern would be if the unit were to fail there is not much I could do track side unless I carry a full spare unit. Has your gotten wet from water crossings, rain, etc?
 

Zambo

Well-Known Member
My concern would be if the unit were to fail there is not much I could do track side unless I carry a full spare unit. Has your gotten wet from water crossings, rain, etc?
I think it is at least as robust as traditional switch wiring. The unit is pretty much waterproof. Not only does it get wet when riding through water but also when I hose out the car. I think it would also be fairly simple to wire an override power source to the ignition and starter that bypasses the switchpro if you don't trust it.

The way I install mine is fairly common I think. I run all of the output wires to a junction block like the one below. Then I hook up the components to the other side of the junction block. You could easily connect 12v power through a separate switch to any component on the junction block as a backup power source.
 

Robin Hood

Well-Known Member
I think it is at least as robust as traditional switch wiring. The unit is pretty much waterproof. Not only does it get wet when riding through water but also when I hose out the car. I think it would also be fairly simple to wire an override power source to the ignition and starter that bypasses the switchpro if you don't trust it.

The way I install mine is fairly common I think. I run all of the output wires to a junction block like the one below. Then I hook up the components to the other side of the junction block. You could easily connect 12v power through a separate switch to any component on the junction block as a backup power source.
Thats interesting and a good idea. I was thinking about running the ignition seperate, but I think this would solve that concern. What is the power supply going to or coming from. Would you mind laying out your thoughts from the battery to the unit?
 

Zambo

Well-Known Member
It couldn't be simpler. There is a big battery cable that goes to a lug on the switchpro block. There are two plugs on that block. One plug has the output wires that go to the components (those are the colored wires in the pic....the ones that are doubled up are the high amp circuits.) The other plug (which isn't plugged in in that pic above) goes to the actual switch panel. That's all there is to it. Obviously in a race car you would have a battery switch, just run a main power cable from the battery switch to the input lug on the switchpro block. The switchpro takes care of all the circuit protection, etc so no need for relays, fuses, circuit breakers, or any of that old school stuff.
 

Robin Hood

Well-Known Member
It appears that the Switch Pro Unit needs to be activated by an ignition system or swiched power source. Has anyone used this as a stand alone system as a opposed to an add on to an existing electrical system? I'm looking for ideas and thoughts that my simple mind won't come up with. Of course, I can use a standard ignition switch and push button for the starter and maybe this is the best way. Any other ideas?
 

Zambo

Well-Known Member
It appears that the Switch Pro Unit needs to be activated by an ignition system or swiched power source. Has anyone used this as a stand alone system as a opposed to an add on to an existing electrical system? I'm looking for ideas and thoughts that my simple mind won't come up with. Of course, I can use a standard ignition switch and push button for the starter and maybe this is the best way. Any other ideas?
Not sure I understand your concern. It’ll work fine by itself.
 

Robin Hood

Well-Known Member
Not sure I understand your concern. It’ll work fine by itself.
I was thinking of using the Switch Pro for the ignition switch and the starter button. How would you send power to the blue wire that requires a connection to the ignition without running a separate switch?
 

Zambo

Well-Known Member
The buttons are individually programmable so that they are either active when there is battery power or when the ignition is on. The blue wire is just a sensor that tells the other buttons that the ignition is on. If you program the ignition button to operate whenever there is battery power, the ignition will turn on. If you connect the blue wire to the ignition circuit, it will tell the unit whenever the ignition is on so the ignition circuits will operate. If you don't want to wire anything so it only operates with ignition then you don't even have to connect the blue wire to anything. Similarly the yellow wire (I believe) is connected to the lights as a trigger to dim the backlight, but you don't have to connect that wire either.
 

MTPyle

Well-Known Member
just hook the ignition wire up to your battery switch or power source. If the ignition lead has power it turns on. I think you can also configure it to be default always on.

We love our Switch Pros but we learned some stuff along the way. We have 4 units and in the instructions it says you can daisy chain 3 units off one power cable. We had two power cables and daisy chained one. we had issues with loads not staying on and tripping the internal breaker. We ran more main power wires so there is a large gauge on each unit and it worked way better. So if you use more than one make sure to use large gauge for each unit.

We mounted ours upside down so water would not accumulate on the connectors and so far its been good. We also machined a heat sync mounting plate to help dissipate heat when under heavy loads.

Make sure you use proper gauge on heavy loads. with longer runs the voltage drops significantly and creates heat. Use at least one size larger than you think you need. Not only will it work better but if you have an alternator failure and are on battery only the system will last longer. We tested when loads shut down at lower voltages and made improvements to keep them on longer. When we used the gauge recommended the loads would shut down at 11.5 volts. With larger gauge on loads and dedicated large battery cables to each Switch Pro we got down to 10.5v battery voltage before we lost loads. Thats significant in a race vehicle and could be more than 30 minutes of extra running time on battery.

Not sure if I shared these pics or not, but here is our mounting plate and the finished product of the dash.

Mike
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