Switch Pros

Zambo

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MT, I think 32 might be a record for the number of switches in one car, lol.
 

MTPyle

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Haha Zambo yes we went a little overboard.

We wanted every device on its own circuit not just for performance but for trouble shooting and control.

If you have two devices on one circuit and one of the two fail you lose both and have no idea which one failed.

Plus with electronics we wanted the ability to reset any device. It’s nice to be able to just reset power on one GPS or just the comms and not Nav

It worked pretty well. Only thing I wish we would have done is add extra circuits on the back and the front of the truck for future devices. We went to add a small spal fan to our fuel system and do not have the wires in the harness.

Mike
 

paranoid56

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Make sure you use proper gauge on heavy loads. with longer runs the voltage drops significantly and creates heat. Use at least one size larger than you think you need. Not only will it work better but if you have an alternator failure and are on battery only the system will last longer. We tested when loads shut down at lower voltages and made improvements to keep them on longer. When we used the gauge recommended the loads would shut down at 11.5 volts. With larger gauge on loads and dedicated large battery cables to each Switch Pro we got down to 10.5v battery voltage before we lost loads. Thats significant in a race vehicle and could be more than 30 minutes of extra running time on battery.

since the terminals/wires are already set, are you repinning larger wires? they look like deutsch connectors, so could just make new ones. trying to understand how you are going up a size in wires.
Thanks
 

MTPyle

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Paranoid56

We changed the main source power wires to much larger Guage. We did re pin with our own wire for the 14g so we didn’t have to splice. But when we needed larger we had to splice into 12g close to the connector. The connector they use can only handle 14g.

But even if you splice 14g to 12g it works better as the 12g is the long run that has all the resistance. 6” of 14g to 20’ of 12g is way better than 20’ of 14g.

For the loads that we used the dual circuits we ran 2 14g out to the load. Two 14g is like 11g so it was better than 12g

Mike
 

paranoid56

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Paranoid56

We changed the main source power wires to much larger Guage. We did re pin with our own wire for the 14g so we didn’t have to splice. But when we needed larger we had to splice into 12g close to the connector. The connector they use can only handle 14g.

But even if you splice 14g to 12g it works better as the 12g is the long run that has all the resistance. 6” of 14g to 20’ of 12g is way better than 20’ of 14g.

For the loads that we used the dual circuits we ran 2 14g out to the load. Two 14g is like 11g so it was better than 12g

Mike

coming back to this as i am getting ready to wire my bug. Does your switches loose memory/settings if you cut all power to the switch? (like from a main battery disconnect switch)

also, do you have yours setup to be momentary for the starter? or are you using a normal pushbutton for that?

Thanks again
 

Zambo

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The internal battery in the switchpro saves the settings. You can cut the power off fully and it'll remain programmed.
 

06Chevy4x4LT

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I'm going to be passing through Vegas on my way to Barstow next weekend - Does anyone happen to know if there are any stores/shops there that carry the switch pros 9100? I've tried searching but haven't been able to pin point anything yet. Making the trip down from Canada and I'd love to bring one of these units back with me.
 

paranoid56

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I'm going to be passing through Vegas on my way to Barstow next weekend - Does anyone happen to know if there are any stores/shops there that carry the switch pros 9100? I've tried searching but haven't been able to pin point anything yet. Making the trip down from Canada and I'd love to bring one of these units back with me.
vegas has a few companys selling them. might give them a call
 

paranoid56

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Paranoid56

We changed the main source power wires to much larger Guage. We did re pin with our own wire for the 14g so we didn’t have to splice. But when we needed larger we had to splice into 12g close to the connector. The connector they use can only handle 14g.

But even if you splice 14g to 12g it works better as the 12g is the long run that has all the resistance. 6” of 14g to 20’ of 12g is way better than 20’ of 14g.

For the loads that we used the dual circuits we ran 2 14g out to the load. Two 14g is like 11g so it was better than 12g

Mike

another question for the people that run these. I have it in my hands and about to start wiring next week. Do you feel the buttons are to easy to hit, and to close together? I am wiring a 5/1600 bug and wondering if its to easy to accidentally hit the wrong button. since i will have things like fuel pump, fans, lights, all that one a single panel.
Thanks
 

Zambo

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If you think about it there are probably only a couple buttons you need to hit while bouncing around. Put those functions on the side by the codriver and put important stuff like fuel and ignition on the other side.
 

jon coleman

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toggles i love for just that reason, all mine were in a row 2" below top of dash, so i could flick switches in the bumpiest w- my thumb while other fingers on top of dash for stability, my first set up all the stuff was Too close and far away, sux
 

MTPyle

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We have not had a problem hitting buttons while getting bumped around. They seem to work pretty well. The driver really does not push anything while racing. We turn on all fans at the start line and leave them alone.

We put the stuff the Co drivers needs over on his side. But really its just siren and horn which we do not use that often, as we are not that fast yet. LOL.

We have Starter on a momentary setting and it works great.

Mike
 

G.A.S.

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Any updates on these units? I’m going to most likely rewire my truck during the rebuild, and have been curious about the longevity and reliability of these.
 

MTPyle

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We have not had one problem with ours for a season and a half of racing in our 6100. Would not hesitate to put in any race vehicle.

Mike
 

desertspeed

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Any updates on these units? I’m going to most likely rewire my truck during the rebuild, and have been curious about the longevity and reliability of these.
Greg, long time no see man!

I rewired my 4700 truck last year and replaced a huge switch and circuit breaker panel with two switch pros. Raced a full BITD season this year and no issues.

My only complaint, and it is minor, is that it is not as easy to tell if the switch is on or off as regular toggle up/down switches. There are indicator lights but they are small and hard to see in the day. But that is fairly minor and I would highly recommend SP.
 
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