As far as I know, Tacomas do not have any bump stops for their
down travel. So when you top-out, the shock is what stops the arms
from traveling further. Now with the Sway-a-way kit, the shocks are
longer than stock, and they are different internally (duh) which lets the
arms droop further than normal.
I know I experienced this on my Tundra (same kit different valving),
because I measured the point at which my tires lifted off the ground
when I jacked it up. From my starting point the truck lifted it's tires at
29 inches stock, and at 31 inches with the SAWs. So I imagine that
you should have about the same results, so figure maybe 2 inches
more travel than stock.
Also, a guy named Jordan who posts here actually measured
his travel with the SAW kit by taking out the springs and cycling his
suspension, and I think he said he had 8 inches with the kit.
PS - If I am wrong, please let me know. I'm in this to learn.
Interesting observation on the down travel issue. I realize the Tundra and Tacoma front suspensions are very similar. When I swapped out my stock coil-over/struts up front on my Tacoma for the Downey setup, I noticed that the Bilstein coil-over assembly was about the same length as the stock coil-over/strut. However, I don't know if the SAW assembly is the same length, nor do I know if it comes with a top spacer like the Downey setup. Anyway, they both appear to work the same. By cranking up on the collar ring, the shock is pushed down, thereby pushing down on the lower control arm. Would it be correct to say that by adjusting the collar ring upwards a little bit of downtravel is sacrificed? Would the upper ball joint, tie rod and stock anti-sway bar also act as limiting factors to downtravel? I remember that when I removed the stock coil-over/strut assembly and unbolted the anti-sway bar, there was still a limit to the downtravel on the control arms. That's why I'm wondering if the upper ball joint, anti-sway bar (assuming it's retained) and tie rod also act as a limiting factor.
On a slightly different subject, do any of you have any opinion on the stock, Taco rack and pinion steering rack and its ability to handle any extra travel? If it does not appear to be able to handle it, any ideas on how to strengthen this part? Assuming the truck were to be used for serious prerunning and jumping, should a stronger, aftermarket steering rack be used with heavier duty tie rods? I don't plan on using the Taco for serious prerunning, but was just curious about the steering rack's durability.
Also, I remember reading an interesting discussion on another thread awhile ago regarding longer travel vs. shock dampening quality. If the truck were to be used for occasional romping (nothing serious, low speed whoops, very mild jumping, if any), as well as a daily driver commuting vehicle, would it be worth going to a long travel system, or would it be better to retain the stock components but upgrade to better shocks like the SAW 2.0's? I assume the frame should also be strengthened for such occasional romping?
The Sway-A-Way shock is like 1/4" or 1/2" longer than a stock Tacoma shock.. I think it is 1/4" I had the first or second prototype set and mine were originally like 3/4" longer and it allowed the outer cv's to bind so Engineer Dillon shortened it up for the released version. I have not measured the specific travel but Toyota claims that 7.7 inches is stock so I would guess that it is about 8" or a tad over which is not noticeable. The thing that is noticeable is that the Sway-A-Way coilovers are a way better ride than stock and also better than the aftermarket TRD spec Bilsteins with Tundra 720lb coils that I am running on my Tacoma currently. [email protected]"][email protected][/url] a.k.a. [email protected]"][email protected][/url] (courtesy of FireDog's login.
What Tundra did you swipe 720lb coils off of?
I thought the stock Tundra coils were 600lbs, so the SAWs offer little
increase in spring rate (this figure is related to spring rate, right?)
On the SAWs they kept with the 650lb springs, the same as the Taco.
But I noticed that they continuously sag lower and lower. Could have
been all break in saggage, but does it take 1500 miles of hitting every
dip and RR X-ing at full throttle to break them in? Just curious.
I was thinking of maybe getting some Eibach 750 lb springs, but maybe
I'll just wait until I can afford a long travel kit & get a new dual rate coilover.
I do recommend the SAWs though, they ride 200% better than stock.
And yes, they do have about a 1" spacer at the top.