Tacoma Suspension Questions...

Dillon

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I plan on getting SAWs up front which is what, 8" of travel? My question is the rear. First of all, how much travel do the stock springs get (without the shock limiting it...)? I know I can get 12-14" from the Deavers, but I'm concerned about having too much travel in back and not enough in front. Now I know I can make it work right if I get the SAWs valved correctly. Is the sold setup the best combination of valving and spring for a Tacoma or can it be done better w/ the existing 2.0? I'm considering the Kings but it seems they are on back order for awhile from what I heard and actually just overkill for a stock front end Taco, someone convince me otherwise (the reservoir would be nice).

For the rear I don't know if I want to stay with stock springs with longer shackles but custom under-bed shock setup, or get the Deavers and go through the bed and get all the travel I can get or stay under the bed and limit the droop to save the shocks or what.

Basically I want the best setup possible short of front long-travel. I'm going to get long travel in the front in a few years when enough people have gotten 4WD to work with it well enough to be reliable.

The truck is going to be used mostly in sand dunes at speed and some light rockcrawling (gimme a break, its all we got out here in OK).

Dillon
 

hbprnstr

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I have the saws on the front of my double cab tacoma and deavers in the rear and love it for the street and the smaller stuff but if youre planning on running the whoops it wont be fun. They work great for what they are and for the price. I cant say enough about the deavers verses the stock springs though. Made a huge difference out back. If you are trying to get either the saw's or the kings id check into it because when i went to get my saw's it was an 8 week for the waiting list and that was only three months ago or less.
 

havahockey

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Hey Dillion,

With the stock springs you should expect to get about 13" out of them if you go through the bed. Ryan (Bonze) runs that with a shock hoop and he pulls that. If you can afford the Deavers I would put them on regardless if you decide to stay under the bed or not. The ride is much better over stock. If you stay under the bed you'll need to run limit straps also.
 

Dillon

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Hey Jason,

Would you recommend running with that much travel in back if the front can't match it (if I go through the bed w/ Deavers)? I think it would be fine, but just worried I'll get the bug for LT quicker then I need to. Plus I still use my bed quite a bit to help move people and things (good way to get free beer or money tho) so I want to build a hoop with a bolted crossbrace, but I don't trust anybody out here to know what the hell they are doing which deters me from even going through the bed. I dunno, as for limit straps, I figured as much after what happened to your 7100s.

Thanks man, and thanks for the email...

Dillon
 

havahockey

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Yes I would recomend it. I have three friends that have the SAW coilover lift up front and shock hoop with deavers/stock springs in the back with 14" shocks. All of them can womp on their trucks plenty.
 

Tom_Willis

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My Tacoma is used to set up MDR courses, so it gets a pretty good low-speed beating. The rear has Deaver 7-packs and 14" stroke 2-tube bypass King 2.5"s run one to one ratio straight up through the bed, with limit straps. The front has 2.5" King coilovers and an ATS upper arm. Loaded up with 200-300 lbs of tools and stuff, it works well, takes a real beating on whooped-out sections, like the Rockpile in Lucerne. The front never bottomed, but it needs limit straps too, you can feel it rebound metal to metal up there. BTW, does anybody know if a 33.x12.50- 15 will fit up front without any major work? I don't want to go to glass or a long travel kit, and I know a 33x 10.50-15 BFG or Goodyear will clear with a little fender trimming.
 

havahockey

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I don't think a 33x12.5x15 will fit without doing a lot of trimming and no fiberglass. I had to trim back my fiberglass fenders when I stepped up to 33x12.5 with long travel.
 

Dylan

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I’m running a modified SAW 2.5” up front on the stock arms(about 8.5” wheel travel) W/Deavers on the rear on my double cab prerunner. You don’t get much down travel with the shocks under the bed though. With the lift from the deavers(about 2”) your only left with about an 1” of down travel using the stock shock mounts, you can sneak an extra 1” out of it by rotating the lower shock mounts which is also the u-bolt plate upwards a little. I squeezed 35”X12.50 on by doing some trimming in the wheel wells. I ended up cutting into the fire wall and floor about 2” and welding in a new plate and cutting the front bumper about 1.5”. and the lower rear corner of the rear wheel well. I wouldn’t have run 35’s except I had them sitting around so I just made them fit. The rear Deavers have a lot more potential when I get around to some shock trickery in the rear, I might try an under the bed relay arm, not sure though.
 

havahockey

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My friend tried to fit a 2.5" SAW coilover but the coil would rub against the spindle. Do you have any pictures of your setup so he can see how you did it?
 

Dylan

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I’ll take a picture later and try to post it. It gets real close at full droop. I spaced out full droop on the coil over to just right before the upper BJ binds and the tang that the upper BJ presses into on the knuckle just barely kisses the spring. The set up is vary similar to the king 2.5 but with a fabed upper mount that bolts in the stock location
 

Dillon

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Wait, you are running 35s under there? I know you trimmed but jeez, 35s? Most people can't fit 33s unless they have long travel. I'm going to try and fit 33x10.5 when I put SAWs on my truck, but I was thinking I would have to get glass up front. you have any brighter pictures of the trimming you did, I'm more than willing to hack up my inner fenders to get it to work.

Dillon
 

Dylan

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I had to cut in to the floor board a couple of inches. You could see the tire through the floor by your feet before I welded it up. The cut stayed behind the interior kick panel so when it’s finished you can’t tell from the inside. I also had to slice the body mount a little and tilt it back and re weld it. The rocker panel and fender were cut back right up to the bolts that hold the lower corner of the fender. It took a while to get all the undercoat and rubber stuff that they put the body seems together with, you have to get it off to weld or else it boogers the weld up.
 

JrSyko

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Wouldn't it of been easier to just trade for some 33's?

See ya in the dirt!
 
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