Talon R or XX ?

mspina

Active Member
I think he's referring to the factory sealant they use. As the motor breaks in a lot of it ends up in the filter and can cause some blockage issues. It's not recurring but I've seen it recommended that you change it after the first ride or couple miles.
 

novaman64

Well-Known Member
I think he's referring to the factory sealant they use. As the motor breaks in a lot of it ends up in the filter and can cause some blockage issues. It's not recurring but I've seen it recommended that you change it after the first ride or couple miles.
Factory assembly lube. Some of it was super thick and clogging filters. More common on the 18's and early 19's, but good to get the assembly lube and build garbage out of the motor. I changed mine under 20 miles. Couple heat cycles and under-load pulls to break in the belt and seat the rings then changed it.
 

adamysr

Well-Known Member
Bass Pro does an extended warranty, right? I've looked at getting one through them, too and like the no-haggle pricing option.
I believe they do have a extended warranty, but not sure the cost. Yeah the prices are set, but they will drop pricing on the option packages on the xtr. They had 3 xtrs in stock but they all had there excursion package, or expedition package and I wanted a bone stock with no packages so they had to order one. They called me and offered to cut the package prices in half since they wanted to sell one in stock.
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
And now I’m about to start building a 4 seat Talon as my new prerunner. Hopefully have it ready for the 500. Probably will sell my RZR now and keep the Cam Am for recreation.
Post up your build. I am interested in a real world description of how much a larger tire affects the transmission...without a gear change.
And a good shock package.
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
Factory assembly lube. Some of it was super thick and clogging filters. More common on the 18's and early 19's, but good to get the assembly lube and build garbage out of the motor. I changed mine under 20 miles. Couple heat cycles and under-load pulls to break in the belt and seat the rings then changed it.
Did mine at 100- lots of goop in there...DGruper posted I believe he did his right away and it was pretty clean. I think Yamaha may have gotten the memo on their assembly lube and changed the filters after the initial startup and warmup at the factory. I would stil do it by 100 miles..or sooner.
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
So just an update on thread, I actually ordered a xtr1000 (rebadged XX) from bass pro near my house this weekend. Since I started this thread I went and l looked at the talon R and XX a couple different times, and really wanted to get the Honda because of the dct but in the end I have to pay more to get it comparable to the XX. One of the main reasons why I want a sxs is simplicity and not having to change all kind of stuff. Next week I’ll be ordering wheels, 32” tires, seats, harnesses,and speedsxs roof and probably call it a day. I’ll appreciate everyone’s input and I’ll post pics when I get it home
Yeah...right...I am sure you will stop there with the mods...LOL.
These things are infectious...it's like a disease.
 

sand shark

Well-Known Member
So just an update on thread, I actually ordered a xtr1000 (rebadged XX) from bass pro near my house this weekend. Since I started this thread I went and l looked at the talon R and XX a couple different times, and really wanted to get the Honda because of the dct but in the end I have to pay more to get it comparable to the XX. One of the main reasons why I want a sxs is simplicity and not having to change all kind of stuff. Next week I’ll be ordering wheels, 32” tires, seats, harnesses,and speedsxs roof and probably call it a day. I’ll appreciate everyone’s input and I’ll post pics when I get it home
If you plan on running 32" tires I would add a clutch kit to your list or your belt will not be happy and your acceleration will be lack luster.
 

adamysr

Well-Known Member
yeah I do plan on adding a clutch kit as well, but I'll probably just stock pile the clutch kit, wheels, tires until after the break in. So since Im a total noob to these whats the proper break in procedure on the XX ? ,
 

Bricoop

Well-Known Member
yeah I do plan on adding a clutch kit as well, but I'll probably just stock pile the clutch kit, wheels, tires until after the break in. So since Im a total noob to these whats the proper break in procedure on the XX ? ,
Lots of opinions out there. Some believe using a non-synthetic during break-in will help the seals.

Optional: Replace synthetic oil for break-in period.
Not optional: Replace your oil filter immediately. (Many models have come loaded with assembly grease as noted above).

Go through hot/cold cycles. Allow engine to naturally come to temp. Drive for 15 mins. Allow to cool down. Repeat until you hit 100 miles.
Get it serviced and fill it with synthetic.
 

sand shark

Well-Known Member
yeah I do plan on adding a clutch kit as well, but I'll probably just stock pile the clutch kit, wheels, tires until after the break in. So since Im a total noob to these whats the proper break in procedure on the XX ? ,
Break in wise it is whatever you are comfortable with. My XP1000 I broke in on a 90+ mile desert ride varying the speed and letting it cool down here and there. My X3 I broke in in Glamis and drove like I normally drive.

These engines are not like the old two stroke days. More like a modern car. Take it for a mellow ride and as others have suggested do an oil change and oil filter change and go have fun.
 

NIKAL

Well-Known Member
When I first got my UTV Nate at Alba told me break it in driving “normal” not WFO, not babying it. He suggested starting it, let it get close to operating temp then go for a ride. Try not to keep at one RPM for to long. After the first trip, approx 80-100 miles. Change ALL the oils. Engine & filter, trans & dif. Nate’s a huge believer of Maxima oils, so that’s what he suggested, and that’s all I’ve run since new. Weddle also suggest Maxima oils in the gears, and both Alba & Weddle know more then me.

Also some say you need to brake the belts in too. But Nate does not buy into the whole slow heat cycle on the belts. He said when a racer brakes a belt do they take it easy the next 50 miles braking in the belt, or do they just go? He did suggest washing the belt with dish soap and drying real well before putting on. There can be a film or oil from the mold releasing agent still on the belt. But then again how many pull the belt off a brand new car and wash it before taking it out?I did not, but I’ve washed my spare and any new belts before putting on.
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
Maxima going in my diffs next change.
Been using it exclusively in my bikes with separate transmission/clutch oil for years and it works great. Clutch always felt good.
Weddle and Alba recommend and use it- good enough for me.

Maxima trans fluid.JPG
 

adamysr

Well-Known Member
thanks guys. It will probably be a couple weeks before i even get the xtr home since bass pro had to order it. For the break in I plan on taking it out to Praire City which is a somewhat local off road park to me here in Norcal.
 

adamysr

Well-Known Member
Picked up the xtr1000 this past weekend. Excited to take it out, hoping this weekend. I also ordered up a speed roof, speed clutch for 32s, bfg km3 and wanted to order some wheels. Was thinking of ordering the Method 401r 2.5/2.5 “high offset” wheels. the stock offset is 5/1 so will the handling change by going to the 2.5/2.5 offset wheel ? Anything I should consider ?
 

Attachments

43mod

Well-Known Member
Speed swears that stock offset is the only way to go. Just relaying what they say.
Your steering rack is going to uncork itself from the frame in not too many miles. If you have the patience get the warranty and break it avfew times. I would love to see what the factory would finally do about it.
 

jon coleman

Well-Known Member
more offset wider makes things more 'dart y', grabby, like on the road and your tire grabs a divot and you can feel it grab the steering wheel and yank it.is offset you want for function( clearence), or ' style', stick w stock.
 

Total Loss

Well-Known Member
The stock wheels are tough...not sure why everyone wants to change them. I am keeping mine- and the 30's (I am not racing it or much rock crawling so don't need the extra girth) ...my steering/hubs/a-arms/axles thank me.
 

adamysr

Well-Known Member
gotcha, I tried to order kmc xs234 with the 5/1 offset but they weren't available or back ordered not really sure what the deal is, maybe i'll just wait for those or look into different ones. For the rack iv'e there is some issues so I was planning on getting the speed support bracket as well.
 
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