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Torque Converter Set Up/Layout In A Buggy

doug969

Well-Known Member
#1
So this may be a very dumb question for some but I wanted to see if anyone had a sketch/layout of how the cooling system works for a torque converter in a buggy. Its very new to me and Im making the change so i need to educate myself on how it works and what is needed. Thanks
 

desertracer

Well-Known Member
#2
I don't have a diagram but went through this a few years back when we converted to a fortin torque converter setup. Starting from the sump tank ours flows to the dailey pump, pressure into converter, out of converter, into Seatrab 6x12 dual fanpack cooler, into radiator heat exchanger, back into the sump. With this setup ours runs at 140-160 all day. Hottest I have seen it get is 180 during the summer races when pushing hard. Let me know if you have any questions, switching to a converter was one of the best changes.
 

doug969

Well-Known Member
#4
The plan is Fortin 4sp or maybe the Albins just depends on the $$$$$$ I can shake off the money tree out back.
 

doug969

Well-Known Member
#5
I don't have a diagram but went through this a few years back when we converted to a fortin torque converter setup. Starting from the sump tank ours flows to the dailey pump, pressure into converter, out of converter, into Seatrab 6x12 dual fanpack cooler, into radiator heat exchanger, back into the sump. With this setup ours runs at 140-160 all day. Hottest I have seen it get is 180 during the summer races when pushing hard. Let me know if you have any questions, switching to a converter was one of the best changes.
So you have just one heat exchanger and one cooler? I have seen two of each and didnt know if it was really needed or not. Also does the water line run from the radiator into the exchanger and then out to the engine? thank you for the help
 

cogbox

Well-Known Member
#9
doug give me a call i have a diagram for a albins torque converter set-up that i can fax over to you. john R.C.TRANS 702-221-4363
 

desertracer

Well-Known Member
#10
So you have just one heat exchanger and one cooler? I have seen two of each and didnt know if it was really needed or not. Also does the water line run from the radiator into the exchanger and then out to the engine? thank you for the help
Yes, 1 heat exchanger (built into radiator) and 1 cooler for the converter. 1 heat exchanger for engine oil (tied into water lines btwn radiator and engine) 1 small cooler for transmission oil. For smaller 1 cars don't think you would need 2 of each. Maybe the bigger cars run 2, not sure.
 
#11
I don't have a diagram but went through this a few years back when we converted to a fortin torque converter setup. Starting from the sump tank ours flows to the dailey pump, pressure into converter, out of converter, into Seatrab 6x12 dual fanpack cooler, into radiator heat exchanger, back into the sump. With this setup ours runs at 140-160 all day. Hottest I have seen it get is 180 during the summer races when pushing hard. Let me know if you have any questions, switching to a converter was one of the best changes.
Caution... Tank/in temperatures are not the same as out. The out temps are what smokes the seal. We monitor both. 180 is good though and doubt that it's beyond the too hot range.

We run one heat exchanger and two regular coolers. Bigger cars with a lot of power require a lot more cooling. Flow, volume, and pressures are key... It's like black magic depending on the application. Some guys don't have many problems. It took me three years to figure it all out!!
 

doug969

Well-Known Member
#12
little update: I put on two CBR coolers w/fan for the TCS T/C with a C&R heat exchanger, and 1.5 gal Peterson tank. For the diff a smaller dual fan CBR cooler. The engine has a Setrab 6x16 cooler with 3 small spal fans. The trans is a Fortin 5sp sequential. I dont want to screw up the plumbing so i will send it out for that.
 

Bajades

Well-Known Member
#13
Make sure you get a filter in there. Before going back to the tank. Pump will last longer.
Pat, do you have a recommendation on a filter? I have been running mine without one. Was told by several not to run a filter due to the restriction it created in this relatively low pressure system. Those damn converter seals are fairly fragile and if it goes away your day is over. Please weigh in if you have additional info.
 
#14
Holy thread resurrection....

I know this is a bit off topic but...

I'm an east coast woods rider and have seen the Type 1 VW autostick setup being adapted to 094s and used for years in woods buggies. It uses homemade bellhousing adapter, a stock VW autostick torque converter/bellhousing AND the stock VW clutch that was originally designed into the autostick system. It's plumbed much like the systems described above but instead of engine oil, they use ATF running thorugh a basic junkyard power steering pump and a pressure regulator (the system only needs 8 or 9psi to function) along with a tank and a cooler...no filter that I know of. They also run their power steering systems off the same pump and fluid volume has never been an issue. While we seldom have convertor seal failures (only when the pressure is set too high), the factory VW flexplate needs beefing up to take the strain but other than that, the entire bone stock VW autostick system seems to hold up well to VW stroker motors, twin disc clutches, lockers and cut 38" TSL boggers.

This setup has proven invaluable in the woods, not only for drivetrain life, but for the ability to stop on a steep, rocky incline and then take off without clutch dumping etc...press the clutch, put it in gear, let the clutch out and the buggy just sits there until you give it gas. It's brilliant....

I only bring this up here because some of us are moving up to Ecotechs and V6s and I fear the stock VW autostick/094 combo won't be strong enough to take this kind of abuse...I could always just build it and see what happens but that would be an expense experiment as we're all running Weddle 094s. I think an HV1 is in my future and while I could graft the Type 1 autostick bellhousing to the HV1 bellhousing, thats a lot of work...

I talked with Weddle about this and they mentioned that someone had mentioned once upon a time about maybe possibly designing something like this for their HV-1. That would be epic in our world but I'm just wondering.....have any other torque converter options been developed other than the VW autostick or the Fortin?
 
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