Have an 88 Toy 2wd that has a brake distribution valve in the rear. It consists of a rod bolted to the rear end that goes to a brake fluid manifold along the frame rail. Someone told me that the reason for it was when you put a load in the bed it would give more braking in the rear. My question is, can I take this off without affecting my brakes? I was thinking of just cutting off the bar right before the manifold, then unbolting it from the rear end. Thanks for any help
toyota brakes
- Thread starter The_Hulk
- Start date
If you could suspend the valve at the frame at the correct unloaded height, it would be ok for unloaded driving.
IF you let it hang, it will make the front brakes do all the work. If you raise it all the way up, the rear brakes will lock up.
I think Willwood makes a pressure distributor adjustment,mainly intended for rear disc brake conversions, that may help you.
I would just leave it and let it do its job.
85 Toyota xtracab 4x4(for sale)
94 Toyota stdcab 2x4
99 Yamaha YZ250
Got Sand??
IF you let it hang, it will make the front brakes do all the work. If you raise it all the way up, the rear brakes will lock up.
I think Willwood makes a pressure distributor adjustment,mainly intended for rear disc brake conversions, that may help you.
I would just leave it and let it do its job.
85 Toyota xtracab 4x4(for sale)
94 Toyota stdcab 2x4
99 Yamaha YZ250
Got Sand??
It's called an "LSPV" meaning Load Sensing Proportioning Valve. It is a varible proportioning valve unlike the Wilwood unit which is fixed at where ever you set it. With 33-9.50's on all 4 corners and a shell on the bed I can run mine with the arm wired all the way up. Once I go to rear discs I'll be tuning it. If you run light in the rear & taller than stock I would dig out the FSM and make the pieces needed to get the adjustment within specs.
Note that there a signal line from the front brakes that goes to the LSPV so if you remove it, you'll have to figure out a way to safely plug that line. Also note that there is a bleeder for the front system line that needs to be bled First b4 doing either front caliper.
TS
"Teach you all I know and you're still stupid"
-- Howdy Lee
Note that there a signal line from the front brakes that goes to the LSPV so if you remove it, you'll have to figure out a way to safely plug that line. Also note that there is a bleeder for the front system line that needs to be bled First b4 doing either front caliper.
TS
"Teach you all I know and you're still stupid"
-- Howdy Lee
I had that on my '94 as well. However, when my cell went in the proportioning valve had to come out. I've seen "little" difference since its been gone, though the rear end has locked up under quick braking when it shouldn't have. Kinda scary when some idiot in front of you slams on the brakes so you hit the brakes and the back end starts goin sideways. . . whew, though no accidents, you just have to drive a little more cautious of "brake happy people" in front of you. Oh, and the only other difference is that I had to pull the plug where it goes into the master cyl. cause my brake warning light would stay on all the time, so I unplugged it - my E brake warning light still works.
You may beat me in the flats, but watch out in the whoops! ! !
You may beat me in the flats, but watch out in the whoops! ! !
I have that same deal in my Tacoma. did you remove everything yota 602, including the manifold conected to the frame? I would like to get rid of the whole thing and was wondering how to do it if you have done it. I know that you can just cut the line to the axel and fix the position on the manifold, but I would like to get rid of that too. any done this, or knows how? or is it not possible with ot redoing all of the brake lines etc.
"Those who risk nothing are nothing."
"Those who risk nothing are nothing."
-K- there were 2 hard lines running to my proportioning valve, 1 hard line was plugged at the frame (right where it was) and the other is connected to an "L" bracket then goes to a flex line which goes into a "T" bar and feeds my rear brakes hyd. fluid. Got me?.?.?. Sorry I got no pics of it though - but I got a pic of my fuel pump up on my web site . . .hehehe. Sorry I was thinking that the brake lines would be visable in that pic, but no dice.
Hope this helps. : )
You may beat me in the flats, but watch out in the whoops! ! !
Hope this helps. : )
You may beat me in the flats, but watch out in the whoops! ! !
the item gary mentioned we have done on many trucks. It bolts flush to the frame and gives you the ability to adjust the braking bias manually. The good thing is that you can adjust it with the turn of an adjuster and it enables you to add shocks without all the linkage and mounting bracket in the way. We like to set them to favor the rear for the dirt. You must be carefull here since you will loose braking distance on street if the rear locks up first. I have included a picture of one we installed on a truck (just flat plate with an adjuster bolt to the center of the assembly). We have made revisions on the part since this picture was taken, but you guys get the idea.
Yota602!!! which line did you plug
tyson! tryin to figure out which line is plugged and which is run to the rear. I got everything ready to put my cell i fabbed up in, but i realized that i forgot to figure out which goes back to the front and which is just the feed to the brakes.
"We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dreams." -- Willy Wonka
tyson! tryin to figure out which line is plugged and which is run to the rear. I got everything ready to put my cell i fabbed up in, but i realized that i forgot to figure out which goes back to the front and which is just the feed to the brakes.
"We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dreams." -- Willy Wonka
the trick is to cut the rod so that about an inch sticks out of the valve body then take a piece of flat metal or use alluminum to make a z shaped tab that has a hole at the top and bottum then bolt one side to the top left bolt that holds the valve body to the fraim, make the other whole so it slips over the inch of shaft and make sure its in a simular postion to what it was at when at regular ride hieght. If you need pics I can take some of mine.
rather than rigging the lever so that it simulates being in the fully up and maxxed out position, wouldnt it make more sense to replace all that crap with a simple block off for the prop signal and a direct line to the brakes?
.. there must be a better way to do this.
"We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dreams." -- Willy Wonka
.. there must be a better way to do this.
"We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dreams." -- Willy Wonka