Toyota Ignition Problem

OGCamber

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Okay, I have a problem with the ignition system on my Toyota. It is an 88 with a carburetor and it has spark coming out of the coil (though it seems weak) and nothing at the plugs. The cap looks fine, the rotor looks fine and the wires look fine. It was running, I shut it off for a couple minutes and then when I went to start it, it fired up for a second and then died. Then it just cranked and cranked and wouldn't fire. The only thing I had done to the truck in the past week was changed the starter and the positive battery terminal. Anybody else ever have a problem like this? I have already checked all of the fuses in case you were wondering... HELP!!!

Courtney Halowell
Editor, StreetTrucks Magazine
www.streettrucksmag.com
 

JasonHutter

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We had this same problem in our race truck a couple of times. Under the rotor in the distributor there is a pick-up coil that tells the coil when to fire for the distributor. It comes out by taking out the two philips head screws. To put the new one back in, you need a brass feeler gauge. If I remember correctly, it is .008. That would be my guess! If you off-road your truck much, we had to silicone the wires that come out of it because that is where it was failing from the beating we were giving the truck.

Jason
Fire Guys Racing
 

tedmales

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ignitor ( hope i spelled that right) its on top of or around the coil. they are go out pretty often, and are expensive. if it is it, then i think there is a way to use an ignition box off of an old dodge instead, and its like $45 instead of $300. good luck

life is too short to be small
 

JasonHutter

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There is an ignitor under the coil. The reason I didn't think it was the ignitor was she said she has a spark coming out of the coil, but not making it past the distributor. Good Luck!

Jason
 

tedmales

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i have had the same thing happen to me and it was the ignitor. it really made me mad. but if it is sparking out of the coil, then the pick up in the distributor should be good. it can be tested with a scope to make sure that it have a nice square wave when the pick up turns, but if it has a weak spark, it makes me think that its the ignitor, or maybe the coil went bad. i think i would change it first, cause its way cheaper.

life is too short to be small
 

JasonHutter

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I suppose if she was having the same problem we were with the wires, she wouldn't be getting a spark. But, if it is worn and the gap is way off, it could cause a weak spark.

If you have a friend with the same truck, put your coil and ignitor into their truck and see if it runs. That should tell you if it is the coil/ignitor or not.

Jason
 

OGCamber

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Okay, got a cap, rotor, pick up coil and gunna see if any of that fixes it. If not, I'll have to shell out the cash for an ignitor. Thanks for all of the advise and I'm sorry if my name has caused any gender confusion (I am in fact a guy, thanks Gary!).



Courtney Halowell
Editor, StreetTrucks Magazine
www.streettrucksmag.com
 

JasonHutter

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Hey, sorry about that. I didn't mean any thing by it. I just don't get to meet too many of you guys out here in Colorado.

Jason
 

BIG_FAT_LOSER

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Get the ignitor from Pick a Part, they charge a lot too but, if you disassemble it there and remove it form its metal housing you can pocket it..........so I have heard.....lol

I used one out of a Celica, I beleive one from any carbuerated R series motor will work.

If your gunna go.........go Ghetto...
 

gary

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no prob...

hey, when you first got the tc kit up front, was your truck (and you?) in buena park, off beach/la mirada area? i thinked i talked to some of your friends about it....
 

OGCamber

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I actually loaned the truck to my homie Opie that lives over that way for like a week. That guy is probably the best alignment guy that I have ever met. He was doing the alignment for me -- for free! And if he wants to drive the truck for a couple days while he is waiting for a free hour on the alignment rack... You get the picture.

Courtney Halowell
Editor, StreetTrucks Magazine
www.streettrucksmag.com
 

ntsqd

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You gotta watch that though, there are different ignitors. Depending on the year it may or may not have some ballast resistors that it uses for who knows what. Write down the p/n on your existing if in doubt.

As to using the Pentastar module, I would go with the Ford Dura-Spark II module first, then I'd consider using the Crane HI-6. The Pentastar modules also use ballast resistors, and they do so in a confusing manner. The Crane unit is likely to be less than the stock part and it will give you a rev limiter built in.
PM me for wiring if you're inclined to go with the Ford or Crane parts.

TS

I used to swerve around my halucinations, now I drive right thru them.
 

IRONGOOK

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You say you have spark from the coil, but not to the plugs. Check the inside of your distributor and see if it has a spring loaded carbon tip that transfers the spark to the rotor. Its located in the center of the cap. If it broke of fell out , you may not be getting spark to rotor. Its a Long shot, but worth a look.
 

curt

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Here goes a possibly stupid suggestion, but since you needed to change the positive side on the battery, did you check the negative side carefully? Use a volt meter between the positive and neg on the battery and check it against the positive and the frame both in uncranked and with the key cranking for a load.There's other ways to check it under a load using the ohm meter but I can't remember how.... Also check the motor ground strap on the back of the head to the firewall...Bad grounds cause lots of wierd problems. Curt

VORRA Class 7
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