Has anyone out there used the Lock-Rite, EZ locker, or similar product. My truck has the stock V6 and will be spinning 33's. I would like to get a Tru Trac or electric locker but the damn money problem just keeps getting in the way. BTW 1990 Toyota 4x4 with stock 8in rear with factory 4:56 gears. Any thoughts?
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Toyota Lockers?
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Curtis Guise
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before I sold my 1990 V6 truck I put a locker in the rear. I bought a TRD locker, but what they shipped was a lock-rite. I was dissapointed that they advertised it as their own, but I put it in and it worked for years. The only thing with a locker like that is it can act funny on the street sometimes.
NorCal_Prerunner
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I ran a Detroit locker in my Yota and it worked excellent. I would say don't waste the $ on a electric locker or a Air locker. Even my wife had no problem driving i around town.
Curtis Guise
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when I said it acted funny it would make a large click or bang sometimes in a corner or if you got on the gas out of a corner. (not very often) But maybe that is only the Lock-rite because I had another truck with one years ago and it did the same thing.
SpitDirtCom
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JD FAB
My loc - rite does that same thing. Its been in my truck for about 5 years and have not had any problems at all.
My loc - rite does that same thing. Its been in my truck for about 5 years and have not had any problems at all.
Ive been using a Lock Right in mine for a year now, and it does its job in the sand! Im used to its behavior on the street.
In the parking lots or cul de sacs, i just put it in neutral and coast. Otherwise it will buck violently and scrub tires. Likewise if im making a right turn on a street with some water on it, i take it easy so as not to slide out or spin out if there are cars there that is. If its safe, i nail the throttle and hang it way out. Done 360s before.
In the parking lots or cul de sacs, i just put it in neutral and coast. Otherwise it will buck violently and scrub tires. Likewise if im making a right turn on a street with some water on it, i take it easy so as not to slide out or spin out if there are cars there that is. If its safe, i nail the throttle and hang it way out. Done 360s before.
SuperDave
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Hi Brad,
I have the same truck, but it's a '94, and I installed the EZ Locker. Since the V6 rear end has a four pinion center carrier, it's plenty strong and the EZ Locker simply replaces the spider gears. I bought mine from Four Wheel Parts for something like $180 back in 1999. Never had a problem. Everyone once in a while I get that locker "clunk" just like everyone else.
I have the same truck, but it's a '94, and I installed the EZ Locker. Since the V6 rear end has a four pinion center carrier, it's plenty strong and the EZ Locker simply replaces the spider gears. I bought mine from Four Wheel Parts for something like $180 back in 1999. Never had a problem. Everyone once in a while I get that locker "clunk" just like everyone else.
curt
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Detroit all the way. We raced on an EZ locker and surprisingly enough it lasted for 2 years. In my brothers truck on the street you can get his EZ to make a hell of a racket, not a little chirp more like a metallic bang like hitting the floorboards with a sledgehammer. Of course it's really experience in figuring out what either of them do in different circumstances, if you change your throttle either up or down in a corner you can make noise(other than the little ratcheting noise) with it and it can have the bucking motion, if your coasting through the corner don't just nail the throttle it will make noise. The reason I like the detroit better is we replaced the ez about 2 years ago and since then have blown up 2 pinion gears and the locker is still perfect even though we've abou tripled racing/testing trips. Since the price is only a couple of hundred more, I'd spring for the well proven quality of the detroit they seem to last forever. For heavy street use, especially in bad weather like rain or snow, I'd still recommend a limited slip over a locker unless your really in tune with your driving, they can(read probably will) get you in trouble a couple of times when you least expect it even with a good bit of experience.... Curt
Commonly known as "Locker Noises". they're hoot in parking lots as the uninformed think something just broke.
Patch has a Detroit in the rear and a Lock-rite in the front. When ever I've got him in 4wd and he gets bound up the RF always pops first. Thot it was broken the first time it did it as it was louder than the rear's 'normal noises'.
I've a friend who bought the Electric Yota Locker over the parts counter. All set up & ready to go with 4.56's, but it was something like $1200. A friend of his is working on a cable shifter set-up. Idea is to reduce the unsprung by dumping the electric motor.
I've had one problem with the Detroit that no one I've talked to has ever heard of happening b4. The 'side gears' wore into the bores that keep them centered in the diff. They wore the bores big enough that the exposed axle splines started eating into the diff case. Talk about a weird noise. Since a new case was nearly the price of a whole new Detroit I looked into other options. I ended up buying an oilite bronze bushing and machining the bores for it to press-fit into them. Then I bored the bushings for the 'side gears'. Total cost was $20 for the bushing. Have about 10-12k on it like that, no metal in the oil yet.
Patch has a Detroit in the rear and a Lock-rite in the front. When ever I've got him in 4wd and he gets bound up the RF always pops first. Thot it was broken the first time it did it as it was louder than the rear's 'normal noises'.
I've a friend who bought the Electric Yota Locker over the parts counter. All set up & ready to go with 4.56's, but it was something like $1200. A friend of his is working on a cable shifter set-up. Idea is to reduce the unsprung by dumping the electric motor.
I've had one problem with the Detroit that no one I've talked to has ever heard of happening b4. The 'side gears' wore into the bores that keep them centered in the diff. They wore the bores big enough that the exposed axle splines started eating into the diff case. Talk about a weird noise. Since a new case was nearly the price of a whole new Detroit I looked into other options. I ended up buying an oilite bronze bushing and machining the bores for it to press-fit into them. Then I bored the bushings for the 'side gears'. Total cost was $20 for the bushing. Have about 10-12k on it like that, no metal in the oil yet.
I have a Lockrite in my non-TRD 99 Tacoma (8.25" rear diff). Works pretty good off-road. On road manners are nowhere near as bad as I thought they would be. In fact, I hardly ever notice it anymore, unless I make a 90 degree turn while giving it too much gas - the tires scrub on dry pavement, or the rear end spins out on slick pavement. Just be careful when the road is slick or icy.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.