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Toyota Steering

Skyler

Well-Known Member
Hey Guys I have a 94 'yota with Camburg uppers, gusseted lowers, dual Bilstein 5100's and a Downey idler arm gusset. I keep eating up idler arm bushings and bending my centerlink(I think). It keeps getting knocked way out of alignment and I don't know where to start short of spending $800.00 bucks for the total chaos King Kong set-up. Do any of you have some sort of trick to keep me going in sort of a straight line? Thanks.
 

Donahoe

Well-Known Member
Limit the travel. You are asking the steering to go beyound what it was designed to do as well as driving it harder... If you limit the droop you will save the steering... Go big or go slow.

NEVER LIFT!!!!!
 

Skyler

Well-Known Member
I have only got about 9 1/2" of travel, and my limit straps are set up about and 1" away from when the ball joint id topped out could this still be a problem?
 

Donahoe

Well-Known Member
Sure look at the angle of a stock toy at droop then look at yours... Lots more angle on it.... Everytime it droops out it wants to push the steering off its mounts or bend the main tie-rod when it starts back into up travel... if it wasnt a problem then all of the toy 7s trucks would run stock steering... But they dont... Its all big parts and lots of hiems and delrin. Just the facts man.

NEVER LIFT!!!!!
 

rdc

- users no longer part of the rdc family -
i have a toyota with 16-17 inches travel up front, and i have never had any problems with the steering. I do have heims on the ouside of both tie-rods though, is this why?

BUILD IT YOURSELF, BREAK IT YOURSELF, THEN BUILD IT YOURSELF AGAIN - PTD Off-Road Motorsports
 

Donahoe

Well-Known Member
I take it your arms are wider then stock? You get better steering angle...

NEVER LIFT!!!!!
 

rdc

- users no longer part of the rdc family -
my a-arms are 6 inches per side wider than stock ones. does that effect the steering?

BUILD IT YOURSELF, BREAK IT YOURSELF, THEN BUILD IT YOURSELF AGAIN - PTD Off-Road Motorsports
 

Donahoe

Well-Known Member
sure the longer the arc the more it travels so you dont need to get as radical on the a-arm angle

NEVER LIFT!!!!!
 

Jkrell

Well-Known Member
Give dan over at Duffco Enterprises a call. He can build you a beefed up idler arm that should solve most of your problems. I believe cost is around 300 bucks, dont quote me though.
 

BIG_FAT_LOSER

Well-Known Member
I have bent several Idler arms, but have not bent the center link, but have pulled the joints out of their sockets on the pitman and idler arm. I have found that the radical angles the tie rod arms are at when the front is lifted put vertical instead of horizontal loads on the pitman and idler arm pivots on the center link, these pivots are supposed to just turn on an axis like a king pin and not rotate and turn like a ball joint. I think there is no real cheap fix other than raising the outer tie rod mounting location or making a swing set type center link




<font color=red>PAT KAPKO</font color=red>
"DISCO FEVER"
 

JasonHutter

Well-Known Member
Skyler, I see you said you have a '94 Toyota. Is it a 2wd or 4wd. I have Fabtech's $250 idler arm for the 2wds that I would sell you real cheap. We had it on our race truck for a race or two before we went to the full steering set-up from ATS. It worked real well for us. Should out last any of the other components of your steering.

Let me know if you have the 2wd
Jason
 
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