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Traction bars
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<blockquote data-quote="FABRICATOR" data-source="post: 3097" data-attributes="member: 80"><p>Tricky88,</p><p>I probably would not have jumped into as I have not messed with traction bars very much, but I heard my name. Obviously what needs to be addressed is the counter rotation of the axle and spring. It seems that 2 links (upper half of a 4 link) or even a single link connected above or next to the top of the differential would work well. The amount of "play" that must be incorporated in the joints of the linkage is directly related to geometry and also how far away the "bars" are located from the (I hate to say it) roll center of the axle. The reason I mentioned roll center and not a single axis is because the axle does not just move on a center point. If it did you would not have wheel hop. The farther out that the bars are mounted the more control and efficiency they will have. However, this also means that there will be more binding if things are not lined up well. </p><p></p><p>It would seem quite feasible to fabricate a ring which bolts to the differential cover bolts (or diff. bolts on Fords) which has a mount built into it for a single bar to attach to. It could be of low profile and not need to stick up above the top of the pumpkin area at all. Big trucks have used a top mounted link similar to this for many years. It would not need to be gorilla strong either as it is only counteracting torque and is not a part of the suspension. It should be more compatible with long travel and twisting situations.</p><p></p><p>As far as the formation of your parallelogram, you must keep in mind that the axle moves backwards as it moves up and eventually may move a small amount forward when in full jounce. Your main concern would be the moving back and then up. With this in mind, the forward attachment point of your bar(s) should be slightly above the rear attachment point, thus providing the needed rearward movement. Be careful not to put in too much. You will have to do your homework to make a system that will last and be compatible with longer travel.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="FABRICATOR, post: 3097, member: 80"] Tricky88, I probably would not have jumped into as I have not messed with traction bars very much, but I heard my name. Obviously what needs to be addressed is the counter rotation of the axle and spring. It seems that 2 links (upper half of a 4 link) or even a single link connected above or next to the top of the differential would work well. The amount of "play" that must be incorporated in the joints of the linkage is directly related to geometry and also how far away the "bars" are located from the (I hate to say it) roll center of the axle. The reason I mentioned roll center and not a single axis is because the axle does not just move on a center point. If it did you would not have wheel hop. The farther out that the bars are mounted the more control and efficiency they will have. However, this also means that there will be more binding if things are not lined up well. It would seem quite feasible to fabricate a ring which bolts to the differential cover bolts (or diff. bolts on Fords) which has a mount built into it for a single bar to attach to. It could be of low profile and not need to stick up above the top of the pumpkin area at all. Big trucks have used a top mounted link similar to this for many years. It would not need to be gorilla strong either as it is only counteracting torque and is not a part of the suspension. It should be more compatible with long travel and twisting situations. As far as the formation of your parallelogram, you must keep in mind that the axle moves backwards as it moves up and eventually may move a small amount forward when in full jounce. Your main concern would be the moving back and then up. With this in mind, the forward attachment point of your bar(s) should be slightly above the rear attachment point, thus providing the needed rearward movement. Be careful not to put in too much. You will have to do your homework to make a system that will last and be compatible with longer travel. [/QUOTE]
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