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transmission coolers

WoodyW

Well-Known Member
sounds like the Thunderdome- "two go in, one comes out!" (rated R)....this ought be interesting.
 
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J_Dog

Well-Known Member
Did not mean to start a product war, but friendly debate and competition are always good.

On a related note, what is a reasonable trans. temp for a C4 transmission (I guess it would be the same for all trannies)? I.E. somewhat normal operating temp. and what would be considered getting too hot. Thanks.
 

johnnyweb

Well-Known Member
Uncle_Bob said:
My answer to this is, you never have time or the money to do it right the first time, but you can always find the money and time to do it twice! In other words, you can buy quantity or you can by quality.

Last post for me on this subject.
pm's have been or will be answered

U/B 1488[/QUOTE

is it just me or was that not even close to being an answer to my question. if you are trying to say im stupid and do things the half ass way and spend double the money thats a very uneducation statement to make. you dont know me from a hole in the ground. so were did that statement come from? as i said before use what ever cooler you want but in my opinion 2 as always better then one.
 

Uncle_Bob

Well-Known Member
Johnnyweb,
Sorry if you were offended. It wasn't ment to offend anybody. My statement wasn't clear as I read it back just now. What I am referring to is that the Fluidyne cooler is SO efficient that you can get by without running the fan. This is one reason why this cooler was designed, in case of a fan failure or an electrical problem (bad alternator, broke belt) to where you need to turn your fans off and save power till you get to your next pit or even the finish line.
One thing if you ever venture to the Irwindale Race track and watch the Legend cars, there have been more motor failures in that class useing the Setrab until they switched to the Fluidyne coolers. Fact!
Also, check out the Spec Trucks with the rear mounted radiators, Fluidyne. Almost anything will keep a motor cool with the radiator or coolers mounted in front but put them behind the cab with the liminted amout of air, Fluidyne.
Again Johnnyweb, sorry!
 

hoeker

Well-Known Member
On a related note, what is a reasonable trans. temp for a C4 transmission (I guess it would be the same for all trannies)? I.E. somewhat normal operating temp. and what would be considered getting too hot
any temp over 240 degrades any oil life very rapidly. when the oil goes bad so will the trans. a properly cooled trans will stay below 180 in the pan, and 220 or so in the line.
 

sandking

Well-Known Member
I know its an old topic...............................but how does the Fluidyne Enduro (12"x15") compare to the PWR (11"x15")? They are about the same price at Kartek $40 difference or so. They both come complete with the shroud and fan. I need a transmission cooler asap and was trying to get the best. I am leaning toward the Fluidyne, but thought I would check all others first. Uncle bob, pm me with a price if you can get these Enduro coolers.
 

hoeker

Well-Known Member
while i prefer the setrab coolers the fluidyne will work just fine for you.

FWIW most corr guys running that cooler run 2.
 

lump-dog

Well-Known Member
Hey, since we are on the subject, I'd like to know what type of thermostat controllers you guys are using to turn on the fan. Also, where's the best place to put the controller, in the pan? hot side of the cooler? in the trans cooler line? Any insight you may have would be helpfull. (2001 f150 supercrew)

thanks!
 

EOR1488

Well-Known Member
Ok I have to rep Fluidyne at Primm my transmission on my big class 8 went over 280 it did a full circle on my temp cauge, Yea right after the race I slaped me on a nice Fluidyne enduro went testing and I mean hard testing didnt turn the fans on once it stayed uner 150 the whole time. I am totaly confident to never have transmission temp problems ever again. That confidence outweighs anything now I can just race and not worry about it.
 

singlehanded

Well-Known Member
well that info doesnt really help anyone. thought jerry was gonna do a setrab fluidyne test so we would all know which runs better? Any updates jerry.
 

lump-dog

Well-Known Member
lump-dog said:
Hey, since we are on the subject, I'd like to know what type of thermostat controllers you guys are using to turn on the fan. Also, where's the best place to put the controller, in the pan? hot side of the cooler? in the trans cooler line? Any insight you may have would be helpfull. (2001 f150 supercrew)

thanks!
C'mon, don't tell me all you guys just have the thing on a toggle switch! Anybody?
 

EOR1488

Well-Known Member
Yep. Hey you got a temp gauge what more do you need. It gets hot and you turn it on, simple.
 

Uncle_Bob

Well-Known Member
It's been awhile for me on this subject. As most of you know, the owner of FLUIDYNE is my neighbor. This doesn't mean that the coolers they made for me are made any different or better. They're the same product you will get right off there shelf.

If you have ever read any of my "post race reports" on my web site www.ubrtracing.com you will see how all the FLUIDYNE coolers work. Last season we ran the same trans all year long. This year we put a fresh trans in and it's still as strong as it was when we put it in 6 races ago and we have 100+ more HP and 150+ more ft lbs of torque this year.

At the last SNORE race the GOLD COAST 250 on 10-01-05 we ran the whole race and never turned any of the radiator or oil cooling fans on. We even towed Lucas Hand in there 5-1600 for 11 miles to pit B at close to race speed on the 1st lap with all the fans off. The trans ran 180 at it's highest and the radiator hit 200 once and that was as we entered pit B to drop Lucas off and sat there for a few minutes while we got our tow strap back and our crew giving our truck a look over.

Maybe this will help in any decision.

Thanks for reading.
 

lump-dog

Well-Known Member
younggunracer said:
Yep. Hey you got a temp gauge what more do you need. It gets hot and you turn it on, simple.
Thanks for the reply, but I don't need one more thing to forget to check. It can't possibly be that "low-tech" for all you racers, can it?
 

EOR1488

Well-Known Member
lump-dog said:
Thanks for the reply, but I don't need one more thing to forget to check. It can't possibly be that "low-tech" for all you racers, can it?
Well you could but I rather put my money else where you know. Plus you have a co-driver thats part of his job and its reliable plus if you know theres a brutal wash coming soon you can put them on early to get it a little cooler before you hit it.
 

johnnyweb

Well-Known Member
toggle switches it is for use to. im not going to rely on and mechanicl t stat switch to turn on. same goes for having the trans cool before it gets to hot. if we know from prerunning that its a long wash or silt section coming up we will have the coolers going befor we hit the section. i dont worry about it any way its the co drivers duty.
 

partybarge_pilot

Well-Known Member
johnnyweb said:
toggle switches it is for use to. im not going to rely on and mechanicl t stat switch to turn on. same goes for having the trans cool before it gets to hot. if we know from prerunning that its a long wash or silt section coming up we will have the coolers going befor we hit the section. i dont worry about it any way its the co drivers duty.

We have the TT set up the same way. Switches always work.
 

ntsqd

Well-Known Member
The way I'd wire it is with a relay and switch the ground side of the control circuit. Put an OE type temp switch somewhere in the system. Not a temp sender, but a switch. Also put a toggle switch in parallel with the temp switch.
Now if the co-dog has brain fade the temp switch will still turn it on.

A car with limited ampacity like a 9, 11, or similar I might not do this, but I would in most anything else.
 

Stephen

Well-Known Member
I would heartily endorse an automatic switch, whether you rely on it or not. We repaired a head in Ensenada the night before the B1K because of brain fade on the fans. That was not fun.
 
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