There are allot of reason why it may not be making power, but what it will come down to, is putting it on a dyno and see why the power is not there.
1. pulley sizes may have to be changed to spin it at the right speed.
2. if it has a mass. they can only measure so much air then they hit a limit. so the computer does not know there is more air going in. (may need a bigger mass)
3. more air means more fuel. your injectors may be at there limits. (may need bigger injectors)
4. then the computer need to know what to do with all the info. ( may need a chip)
If this was a ford I would know where to send you. but since it is not you need to find someone that can log in to your computer while it is on a dyno and see what going on.
I was just told to contact ELprototypes because they re-map the ECU's and remove the speed governors also. I will post what I hear from them.
I also talked to a Toyota tech that said the only difference is my ECU becuase the map sensor does not recognize the boost from the supercharger. he said I need a later ECU and possibly a harness if the ECU won't fit in mine....
sent him an e-mail a couple of days ago and didn't hear back. Then I sent one this morning with more info I learned and the TRD reply that I got. Still nothing yet.
Just got off the phone with EL Prototypes. They need me to pull the ECU and open the lid to read them some numbers. Then they can say if they can make it work or not. Unfortunately if they can it will cost $775 or $1350 depending if its a 1 or 2 ROM board ECU. So I am wondering if I would be better off searching for a 97 auto transmission T100 ECU and harness... But EL Prototypes also removes the 105mph speed governor which is cool.
Ok I just got all the info from EL Prototypes. They checked the numbers on the chips in my ECU and they do have a program for it. and luckily mine is the 1 ROM board that is only $775 to upgrade compared to $1350 for the 2 ROM board. He said with their modification it will put me about where you would be by putting a supercharger on a stock 1997 truck. He said the 97 is the last year of the ECU they can modify and its the best truck to have because they can get the most performance from it. He also said they can't do to much with my 95 ECU as far as the timing/detonation but it might help. He said a fuel pump with 255 litres per hour, bigger injectors and colder plugs will help with that problem. And it would take about 2 weeks to have it done.
So I either need to have that done while I am building the truck, or see if I can put a 97 computer in it.
You know, for what that gadget web site guy spent in upgrades to the stock EFI system it seems it would be easier/cheaper/better to can the stock computer and go with an aftermarket system. With all these upgrades you still have a system that isn't adjustable unless you have the chip reprogrammed. And unless you've got the thing on the dyno with the guy sitting there corrocting the fuel map in real time, it's never going to be right.
yeah I know what you mean, he went crazy with all the mods he had to do to get his to run good. All I would like to do is get it to run like it should with a supercharger installed, then do the exhaust and intake. But that is turning into a nightmare...
OK, I just got off the phone with the man who put the very first Eaton blower on a T-100. It was the prototype truck. What he told me was first, make sure it's making boost. There is a bypass in the manifold, try winging it and listen for that characteristic whine of the blower working. If the by-pass is opening too soon it could be dumping boost. Might invest in a boost gauge to check just how much you are getting.
Appearently the stock exhaust leaves a LOT to be desired. One of the headpipes has an extremely tight bend in it just down from the flange with the manifold, and then the pipe crosses over the top of the bellhousing btwn the heads and the firewall where it stabs into the opposite headpipe just down from that manifold. He suggested pulling the exhaust loose at the cat and bolting the opposite tabs together to form an open exhaust, then test drive it around the block. If it's working right you should be able to light up 33-12.50's at will (4.56 gearing).
On the proto truck they put headers, maybe Downey - it's been a while since he did this, on the truck and routed a pair of 2.25" head pipes to behind the transfer case where they were Y'd together into a single 3". The truck has a huge cat and a Borla muffler on it. It's too loud for my personal pref, but something other than the Borla would cure that.
Also, check the vacuum/pressure hose routing. They ran into one/some of the diagrams not being correct and had to re-route some of the hoses.
They had a chip burned for the truck by someplace in LA. The name was escaping him at the moment, but if needed he can probably dredge it up.
I used swerve around my halucinations, now I drive right thru them.
on www.gadgetonline.com he shows a picture of the supercharger pointing out the correct and only port you can hook a boost gauge to. and also said some dealerships screw that up and also hook up the 4wd vacum hose wrong, but mine is 2wd. I don't have a boost gauge so I need to get one soon. I talked to someone about exhaust and they said they usually see the most performance gains by just doing cat back exhaust. He said that headers don't make that much of a difference because the stock manifolds have a good design. I don't know if that is true or not though. I will have to try what your friend said about unbolting it at the cat and driving it.
You can definitely here the whine of the blower working. When only pressing the throttle about 1/8 to 1/4 you don't hear it but past that it makes noise, especially if you step on it. It just doesn't have a big power gain over not having the supercharger on. It barely lights up the tires and its a 2wd without the bed on it, so I know something isn't right.
My goal right now is to figure out what I need to do to it before I park it in the garage in 2 or 3 weeks to start tearing it apart. Then it will be parked for 2 or 3 months while I am building it. That will be the perfect time to send the ECU out if that's what I need to do.
hey partybarge_pilot, this might interest you. On the Yotatech forum someone replied to me with a couple of companies with adjustable units.
I'm pretty new to all this, but I would check two places before you even consider the El prototypes ECU upgrade.
They have not been recommended to me, and I own a 1998 Toyota 4-Runner with the 3.4 liter V6, but I'm not sure
of the differences in the computers. Obviously, there is a difference. But check out these two sources first, in my
These units are adjustable using a laptop computer, and the number of times and adjustments are not limited to
anything. If you upgrade something later on, then you can readjust again if you'd like. Buy it once, and you will
have infinite adjustment.
The only thing I'm not sure of is that your computer may not recognize these things either, so I would contact
both of these companies, and they will know for sure. Hope this helps!
Also, I will be installing my supercharger soon, but I have to decide on which unit I'm going to choose too. Either
the FTC1-E or SMT-6. I have to the do some other research too, but I would first check out the forum titled "New
Performance Mod/Part" for a more detailed list of the SMT-6 functions. It's supposed to be the better and more
inexpensive unit of the two. Check it out and let us know what you find out.
He also later posted that this might be something I could use... <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.perfectpower.com/Products/prs.asp>http://www.perfectpower.com/Products/prs.asp</A>
its a standalone andjustable unit that replaces the ECU
<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by jdfab on 01/09/03 10:48 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
I heard that Downey's and Edlebrok go under the transmission and TRD is like stock. For mine it might be hard to find them because I saw that Edlebrok's don't fit a auto transmission truck with the colum shift. I guess the linkage gets in the way. But if its true that there isn't a big gain from headers then I might put the money somewhere else. I think there was a header thread awhile back.
The truck I've been refering to was a column shift auto, but it got an aftermarket shifter installed. Took only a little fangling to get the cable linkage to work right.
The stock cross-over on this truck was described to me as being a about 1" (1", not a mis-type) CLR 90* bend out of the manifold. Sounds like later trucks might have gotten this sorted out.
I used swerve around my halucinations, now I drive right thru them.
Gadget replied to my YotaTech post today, here is what he had to say
Don't waist your money swapping a later model ECU into your truck. You will spend a lot of money and it will still
run like crap and have the same problems as all the rest of them like the HG/LR-Ping, high RPM lean out and so on.
If you do the basic mods you will solve all the current problems and it will run like all the other ones with the same
TRD said the very same thing about the 95 Taco. I worked with a guy and he followed my suggestions, but went a
little further. Instead of using the FTC he had a Uni-Chip installed and tuned by Tony at The Racers Group in SF
Remember that TRD told this guy that the supercharger will never work on his truck and told him to swap in a 97
ECU. He ignored TRD like he should have and did it right. His truck now makes 260 HP at the rear wheels with a
stock pulley on the supercharger.
He is sending my all of his info and I am going to throw a page together on his truck and his end result for
everyone to see.
I keep telling people to stay away from uping the boost with those stupid smaller pullies because I know that with
the proper fuel delivery and proper tuning you can find a ton of power in these engines without hurting them.
Here is the link to the Racers Group site that has info on that UNICHIP setup he said the guy did for his 95 Tacoma. <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.theracersgroup.com/theprogram_unichip.html>http://www.theracersgroup.com/theprogram_unichip.html</A>
After reading that I asked him which Split second unit he is talking about the FTC1 or FTC1-E $529 or $579. And if he knew much about the Perfect Power SMT6 for $250 or PRS8 for $900(stand alone unit that replaces the ECU).
I also asked about the fuel pump because the EL Prototype guys said go with a 255 LPH pump which is allot different from what he recomended.
Still waiting to hear what he says.