Trixie, the Twin Turbo Ranger

TT347Ford

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Hello All!

Meet Trixie, a 1983 Ranger I picked up in college that I have been building, racing, and spending way too much money on.

As I bought it, a 2wd 4cyl (well actually 3, it had a dead hole) 4spd

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Proceeded to rip it apart and cage it, plan originally was to do a smog legal 5.0 swap and make it a simple prerunner since thats all I had money for in school. Shocker, I couldn't finish it before I graduated. I ended up with a pretty awesome job running the family underground contracting company with my sister and thats where the snowball started. Got the itch to go racing and it was all downhill from there!

Fast Forward to 2016, had the truck going and entered my first race, Battle at Primm. Quickly realized my anemic 302 was not cutting it, had a ton on things to address on the truck so it got tore down.

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Built a hot 347 and went racing again!

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Broke a lot of things along the way but kept learning and improving. Threw a bunch of more race worthy parts at it.

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TT347Ford

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And my hot little 347 wasn't quite hot enough for me so I picked up a few of these guys!

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Made 470 wheel horsepower at 5.5psi on E85!

Long story short the valve train couldn't keep up in my garage built motor

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So I picked up this bad boy! Pro Lite Motor, 347 ford, Daily dry sump

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At the same time I decided I was in serious need of a facelift and some better running gear.

Camburg 4" housing, heat treated.

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New Dash with better electronics

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And was tired of scotch bright and rusty tubes, so it was time to sand blast and Steelit

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Now its all going back together with the goal of racing RATR this year.

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That brings us current! if you want to see something specific let me know, have a whole library of pictures. Also you can check the team out on instagram @robertsoffroadracing
 

Brice

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hey man, this post made me log in for the first time in a while to comment. It is super cool that you have had this truck for so long and brought it up through the different stages and are still charging. Keep it up. Truck looks great!
 

jon coleman

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we live through your more is better mindset, Never stop adding more!!!!, ( pics of eng.plumbing/ electrics, the nitty gritty of the garage guy engineering aspect, even a top f1 team will see somthing innovative,i get all my ideas from other race cars, trucks , bikes ect. .Glamis w- paddles this season???
 

TT347Ford

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we live through your more is better mindset, Never stop adding more!!!!, ( pics of eng.plumbing/ electrics, the nitty gritty of the garage guy engineering aspect, even a top f1 team will see somthing innovative,i get all my ideas from other race cars, trucks , bikes ect. .Glamis w- paddles this season???

You read my mind haha

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TT347Ford

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Some more deets now that Im not running around like a chicken with its head cut off

Back End touches

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Freshened Power Steering stuff, including the new style howe pump with all 300m internals

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Engine bay, still have coil packs and plumbing and wiring to run

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And flexin with the new CNC plasma, made a new radiator top cap. My breaks are a little off, but that's what they make squirt guns and grinders for!

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TT347Ford

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Its all down to the little details now. Got the exhaust reworked since the header flange is like 1/2" higher than my old motor, working on plumbing, wiring, and fine tuning. Needed all new charge pipes since I dropped everything way lower in the chassis and moved the radiator to the back

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TT347Ford

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ItS tHE SAme MoTOR iT wiLL jUSt boLT In. Fuckin idiot I am. Headers are way higher and farther forward than the old flange mounts.

Power steering lines are real close to the headers. Went with high temp silicone SS braided hoses and lots of heat wrap to mitigate.

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Had to clearance my steering box. That did not feel good cutting into by very expensive howe box. Welded a plate patch in. Preheated the f*** out of it and squirt gunned it in. It might hold up.

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Doing my best LS impression

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Cut the sealed motor tags off and got a peak inside the top secret nogrady motor. 3/8 rocker studs, machined heads for longer studs and more lifter clearance. Should be much more better.

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Brown and Miller Hoses and fittings are tight. I see what the racerboiz use them now.

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the amount of hoses and wiring on this thing now is absolutely insane. Im loosing my mind trying to package this crap into the tiny ranger chassis.

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Zac Reish

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This is a great old school race desert post. keep up the photos and story. pretty sure we've met a few times when you had your blue baja bug in lucerne and at rage. Keep your head down and grind. It will be running awesome in no time.
 

jon coleman

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looks like an old pro - truck build, i remember watching an early one being built, ' cramped' , ' tight', the eng/ steering/ front area looked like to me, & yeah!, mo- picrures!!
 

TT347Ford

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Thanks guys I appreciate the vote of confidence! Got the truck fired up last night which was a huge sigh of relief. I put a crazy timeline on myself setting the dyno appointment for this Wednesday (nov 4th). I really want to race Rage at the river in December so its going to be hectic getting it running right before then.
 

TT347Ford

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Successful and Stressful weekend. Sorry for potato quality photos, my camera screen is cracked. Long story short, got the truck fired up!

Still waiting on the correct size V belts for the steering (4th times a charm)

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Drysump plumbing is done, just gotta mount the breather

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PWM fan controller are in. Ramps the fans up and down slowly as needed to keep temps steady. Rad!

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Working on cleaning up the engine bay and throwing about 10,000 zipties at it.

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Still have to route the coolant hoses to the motor, but getting them there was a relief. I'm most likely going to replace all of this with hardline, but its good for now.

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TT347Ford

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Everything is super tight but it fits!

Belts for water pump, alt, and oil pump are cog, then its double V belt for the steering. Ill run pretty high tension on those ones.

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Water lines barely squeezed in there. I am not very happy with the the outcome. I will probably remake all of those with with 1.5 inch and mostly hardline all the way back. they are currently 1.5 and 1.75" with mostly rubber running from the back to the front. It had to stay inside the frame right here so the shocks would clear at droop. Everything is dumb tight.

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Dumb amount of very expensive fluid it takes to fill this stupid thing up. 4 gallons of engine oil, 4 gallons of trans, 4 quarts of steering, 4 gallons of gear oil. It is kinda handy that it all is in 4s though!

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New charge pipes are mounted much lower and 1 piece so less chance of blowing off!

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And finally got it running! Couldn't get the bypasses on in time because they were clocked completely wrong. And I really want to come up with a neater way to mount the reservoirs for both. I wish I could fit piggy backs but it wasn't happening. Also had a huge power steering leak in the box from what I assume is my ghetto patch, so I pulled the belts off and drained the fluid. Don't need power steering to spin some rollers.

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And then it was Dyno time! SYCH. Got the truck there and immediately noticed the alternator case had cracked. chalked it up to bad design or poor casting. I had a spare alternator that was a bigger case and higher amperage for night races where I gotta run all the lights so I threw that on.

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Proceeded to set timing and improve the idle quality with Dune Hoon. I noticed a large amount of vibration in the new alternator case. it was oscillating back and forth a good 1/4 inch on the bottom. walked around the truck to tell him to turn it off so I could double check the bolts were tight. Walked back around the truck and saw this:

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Lo and behold, the new larger case alternator did the same poop as the other one. Both brand new alternators from Jones racing, who also sold me the accessory drive. Pretty much game over at that point.

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I am under the impression they didn't give me the right case alternator to go with their mount. It pivots off the top bolt and uses a mini tie rod bolted to the timing cover and bottom eye of the alternator, so all the bending force goes to that upper pivot. It needs to be way more sturdy than what they supplied. cog belts get very little tension and i know that so it wasn't over pulling the case. I also checked the drive hub coming off the crank, and its spinning true as can be so its not that either. Borrowed a DC power alternator from Tomass for his 6100 build and it fits like a dream and is way more stout, so thats the fix for now.

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Unfortunately that doesn't leave me with enough time to make it to Rage at the River fully prepared. So we are out for that race. New plan is to get the truck running properly and fix all the little things left that bug me (mentioned above) and go beat the piss out of it in the desert and have fun. Big time bummer we are missing the race but I am happy we get to go out and just have fun with it. Plan on giving out lots of rides and stacking a good amount of hours on it this desert season.
 

TT347Ford

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Just about wrapped up before my dyno day tomorrow!

Alternator bracket fixes, its a 4130 insert into the aluminum to prevent galling/give it more strength. I didnt get any installed pictures because its buried in the engine compartment and hard to see.

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New power steering bracket to get the fittings away from the header

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I attempted to weld a scab plate on the power steering box. It didnt work that great. Took it to Howe to get reassembled and they didnt appreciate my welding skills. Threw some much better beads on it and pressure tested. Those guys are awesome, that slid me in for a 1 day turnaround!

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Did some minor wiring for more sensors and got it fired up!


Had to Install a scavenge pump since the driver side turbo was blowing out out the exhaust. The drain lines are too flat to drain properly into the drysump tank. Didnt get any pictures of that. Its noisy and annoying but works and once you fire the truck up you cant hear it at all.

Also did a bunch of nitpicky stuff like fix some zerk fittings and put fancy little plastic caps on em.

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