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TTB Chevy Build

TYLER WOOF

Well-Known Member
#1
Well I've been on RDC for a few years and decided I was finally doing something cool enough to have a thread for lol.
I just finished up putting a solid axle under my 1995 Chevy a few months ago but decided I want to throw some beams on it. I do a lot of 4wd stuff and my dad's building an ultra4 style car but I also enjoy going fast and have buddies building prerunners. That's the reasoning behind TTB.
ImageUploadedByrace-deZert1408916444.043243.jpg
First pic is the truck a few years ago.
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Second pic is when I took all the ifs stuff out.
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Third picture is how it say the other day before I decided to go TTB.
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And then how it sits as of now with the front axle out. I did a lot of research so hopefully won't take too long and any input or advice is always appreciated.


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Dezertpilot

Well-Known Member
#2
I think the SAS was cool enough cant wait to see what this looks like, good luck!
 

TYLER WOOF

Well-Known Member
#5
We build a lot of TTB projects just a few miles from you - come by some time and check them out. There isn't much about TTB's we don't know.

Here is a 10,000 lbs Ford E350 van with 12" travel:



Here is a Chevy TTB like no other - 24" travel:
http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/th...t-till-you-see-her-topless.62958/#post-789217[/
QUOTE]





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That thing is rad I will definitely have to come check your projects out. Where are you located?
 

TYLER WOOF

Well-Known Member
#8
Still have a lot of clean up work and plating I want to add to the frame but I did a little mockup yesterday after work.
ImageUploadedByrace-deZert1408993631.979042.jpg

So far I plan in having the brackets drop enough so the beams sit in a position near the stock angle. My idea behind this is to not increase the u-joint angle between the beams by cut and turning them or extending the lower balljoint.
Based off rough measurements I will extend the beams at least 4-5 inches to keep my track width similar to what it was before.


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#10
The work Ramsey and Glen did on the Blazer TTB is killer.

Are you going to swap in a Ford cross member or just do a custom cross member?
 

TYLER WOOF

Well-Known Member
#11
The work Ramsey and Glen did on the Blazer TTB is killer.

Are you going to swap in a Ford cross member or just do a custom cross member?
So far the plan is to make a custom crossmember by plating flat across the bottom of my frame rails so I have a solid flat base then building brackets off of that.


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TYLER WOOF

Well-Known Member
#12
A little progress making the crossmember and the beam pivots. Keep in mind there is gonna be a lot of reinforcing but this is the main shape.
ImageUploadedByrace-deZert1410127157.740758.jpg
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Also got reminded it is fire season and lit the bank and hedge on fire from the sparks of the grinder. I looked up and the flames were about 12' tall.
ImageUploadedByrace-deZert1410127405.656318.jpg
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Tacked the beam pivots on so I can measure for holes and see where I have room for reinforcing.
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TYLER WOOF

Well-Known Member
#13
ImageUploadedByrace-deZert1410412435.688561.jpg
trimmed the brackets down a little and drilled holes
ImageUploadedByrace-deZert1410412493.003910.jpg
got the main structure welded tight
ImageUploadedByrace-deZert1410412546.588194.jpg
they lean back because the frame rails are not parallel to the ground. I still need to box them in and add gussets where I can.
It's all 1/4" but I'm still gonna plate where the holes are and have support tubes running from the front bracket towards the front bumper and from the back bracket towards the rear of the truck.


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TYLER WOOF

Well-Known Member
#14
ImageUploadedByrace-deZert1411018006.083181.jpg
cut the bushings off the beams and set it up for the bungs so I can use heims. Set it up to extend each beam 4 inches. I was able to extend it at the pivot end since it doesn't affect up travel like if it was done on a ford frame. And I will not be hard on the drive shaft I'm using.
ImageUploadedByrace-deZert1411018132.981144.jpg
also did a little plating. Heres how they turned out so far.
ImageUploadedByrace-deZert1411018196.130885.jpg
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Next is more plating, truss, clearance the axle port and cut and extend the lower ball joints. I need more days off lol


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#15
Interesting. Wouldn't it have been stronger and easier to do a uni ball like most TTB long travel setups?
 

TYLER WOOF

Well-Known Member
#16
There's a few reasons I went with heims instead of uniballs:
1. I'm using 1.250" heims because I want it beefy and the biggest uniball usable is 1".(3/4 if you don't add material)
2. I like the adjustability of heims in case I need to fine tune length for any reason.
3. I'm using 1.250" heims in multiple areas on the truck so less spare parts to carry.
4. I'm trying not to copy everybody else's otherwise it can only be as good as what's already out there.


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TYLER WOOF

Well-Known Member
#17
When I bolted the beams up I realizedit would sit too low and I wanted more up travel so I cut and turned them yesterday.
ImageUploadedByrace-deZert1411247982.160432.jpg
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I also got more plating done on the passenger side beam.

ImageUploadedByrace-deZert1411248128.826695.jpg
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#18
Plating the front and rear is a little excessive. You should really plate the top and bottom of the P-side beam around the axle window. That is where they like to bend under hard hits. Especially after you open the window up to clear at full droop.

Hope you had the spindles bolted in when you moved out the bottom ball joint.

Also, fully weld in the top ball joint bung............
 

TYLER WOOF

Well-Known Member
#19
Partybarge_pilot I figured it was more than necessary but i drive the sh** or of it and I do a lot of 4wd stuff in the rocks, better safe than sorry, plus it tied into the lower balljoint nicely. . I am doing the top and bottom tonight.
So you mean throw a weld around the sleeve with the 2 ears on it at the top ball joint?
Thanks for the advise also, always appreciated!


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TYLER WOOF

Well-Known Member
#20
Plating the front and rear is a little excessive. You should really plate the top and bottom of the P-side beam around the axle window. That is where they like to bend under hard hits. Especially after you open the window up to clear at full droop.

Hope you had the spindles bolted in when you moved out the bottom ball joint.

Also, fully weld in the top ball joint bung............
Partybarge_pilot I figured it was more than necessary but i drive the sh** or of it and I do a lot of 4wd stuff in the rocks, better safe than sorry, plus it tied into the lower balljoint nicely. . I am doing the top and bottom tonight.
So you mean throw a weld around the sleeve with the 2 ears on it at the top ball joint?
Thanks for the advise also, always appreciated!



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