TTB Chevy Build

71f1hundy

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TYLER WOOF

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Not following you... what is wrong?
Sorry I didn't go into much detail, basically due to a couple reasons the pass axle didn't exactly line up with the female splines coming out of the diff. Basically, when I slide the passenger axle in it is more pointed to the front of the truck than it needs to be. He are my 3 mistakes and fixes.

Mistake #1. By extending the beams at the top I increased the distance between the diff and the pass axle window giving it more throw and not enough clearance, by using a hiem instead of a uniball I believe I changed the angle the beam sat as well because right now the end of the passenger beam appears to be angled to far back.( the axle rubs on the back edge of the beam before exiting the window.

Mistake #2. By welding the radius arms tight I made it impossibly to fix problem #1 because if I angle the hub end of the passenger beam forward the radius arm will point out the side of the truck.

Mistake #3 welding everything tight without seeing if the axles cycle.

Fix #1 On the new set of housings I am going to install them in stock form to insure my pivot brackets are in an okay spot. Then I am going to extend them how most people do by adding x amount of inches of channel to the outer portion to ensure I'm not changing the angle, just the length. This will also keep the diff and axle window close together. Also use a uniball at the top instead of a hiem.

Fix#2 I am gonna use bolt on radius arms( for now) so the if I need to change the position of the beam I can do it easily.

Fix# I am going to extend the axles first and make sure they cycle before I spend another few nights plating beams.

Sorry for the essay but I think It made sense.


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TYLER WOOF

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Been watchin ur build..heres pics of my extended ttb. 3 inches per side. 12" foa coil overs. Got 17" of travel. Welded j-beams with 1.75" dom and 4 uni-balls
Nice setup! I've watched yours too. I am gonna do what you did and extend them on the out side. And use uniballs for the beam pivots. I think that was my main problem.



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Junkie

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I just picked up an old C20 and am considering converting it to 4WD, if I do I'm strongly considering TTB. Would probably go with coilovers. Is the one you're using D44 or D50? What's a reasonable price for a complete stock TTB setup? I'd probably go with a 50 to stay 8 lug.
 

TYLER WOOF

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Took it out to glamis for Thanksgiving, did well for not being tuned and stock rear. Can't decide weather I want to redo the beams or link the rear now haha
ImageUploadedByrace-deZert1417473666.174080.jpg

First time out with the crawler as well
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TYLER WOOF

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How is it treating you? Does it do well on the street too?

It's killer, only a couple street miles but it's more stable feeling than the straight axle and even the sh@% stock a-arms. Even for not being tuned it does okay in the dirt. I took it to Glamis for thanksgiving and Superstition for New Years. Very clear that the rear suspension is long over due.
No more trips for a while. Hopefully in the next couple months I am going to start the cab cage, back half and 4 link. Starting to collect parts soon(fuel cell, rear end, coilovers) Aiming for next season.


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v8luvin

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I'm working on doing this swap also. 93' k1500. Wondering how it is going years down the road. Anything you learned or any more pictures of the setup? Looking at 20" travel. Any thing helps. Thanks

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TYLER WOOF

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I'm working on doing this swap also. 93' k1500. Wondering how it is going years down the road. Anything you learned or any more pictures of the setup? Looking at 20" travel. Any thing helps. Thanks

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Funny story... I took the truck apart to start fresh with a tube chassis and ended up recycling the entire thing. Started a new build about a year ago... I think I will make a thread soon.
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TYLER WOOF

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I wanted to re-do the front end, and had to cage it, and back half it. That's when I was going to go tube chassis. Then I decided I wanted to use a different cab so everything got scrapped.


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v8luvin

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Any advice for me. I won't be racing or anything. Just a play truck and backup daily driver.

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TYLER WOOF

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Any advice for me. I won't be racing or anything. Just a play truck and backup daily driver.

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Read everyone's comments to me on this thread. LOTS of really good info. I was young and dumb and thought I knew everything but I learned a lot doing this. Here's a few mistakes I made that come to mind... extend the beams close to the beam end, not near the pivot points like I did here. If you cut and turn them by extending the lower ball joint I wouldn't go more than like 5/8". And weld them back in with the knuckle attached. And there is no need for .188" plating, way too heavy. Also, everyone has there own opinion but I am a big fan of bolt on radius arms, not welded like I did here. It makes adjustment and installation much easier. Oh, and mount the radius arm pivots as far towards the center of the truck as possible. Keeps the tire from rubbing and makes for better geometry.


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wrightracing.net

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Bummer to hear about scraping the truck, but I know how that goes. I am scraping my 1986 Bronco Sheet metal, selling the Autofab fiberglass that is in good shape still, which is 3 out of 4 fenders are good one front corner damaged, I hit a valley wall going way to fast in the middle of the night in valley wash only slightly wider than the Bronco in a tight corner.

So I decided to go old school withe the body and transplant a 1972 Bronco Body on the 1986 Chassis. This way I get all the benefits of the TTB IFS coilovers and wider front end and 20" of travel. And 105" wheelbase, but with the cool Old School look of a 1972 Bronco. Or do I say a Full size early Bronco , because the body is getting widened 13" and stretched about 14".

I am just waiting to get all the DMV title and VIN paperwork done on the 72 and I can start cutting it up. I got lucky and found the 72 and it had been in a accident where the frame was damaged, no front clip or engine. So I got it for cheap with a clean VIN out of Pittsburgh. Just have to Title it in my name in CALIFORNIA and I will start my 50th birthday present to myself.
 

michael.gonzalez

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Bummer to hear about scraping the truck, but I know how that goes. I am scraping my 1986 Bronco Sheet metal, selling the Autofab fiberglass that is in good shape still, which is 3 out of 4 fenders are good one front corner damaged, I hit a valley wall going way to fast in the middle of the night in valley wash only slightly wider than the Bronco in a tight corner.

So I decided to go old school withe the body and transplant a 1972 Bronco Body on the 1986 Chassis. This way I get all the benefits of the TTB IFS coilovers and wider front end and 20" of travel. And 105" wheelbase, but with the cool Old School look of a 1972 Bronco. Or do I say a Full size early Bronco , because the body is getting widened 13" and stretched about 14".

I am just waiting to get all the DMV title and VIN paperwork done on the 72 and I can start cutting it up. I got lucky and found the 72 and it had been in a accident where the frame was damaged, no front clip or engine. So I got it for cheap with a clean VIN out of Pittsburgh. Just have to Title it in my name in CALIFORNIA and I will start my 50th birthday present to myself.
Solid 3+ year bump.

PS. You should see the NEW beast Tyler created.
 

michael.gonzalez

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I boxed in the beam pivot brackets and gusseted them, all material is 1/4".

View attachment 145406
View attachment 145406
View attachment 145407
The holes at the end are to get some extra weld when it sits on the bottom of the frame.

I also started the truss on the diff face until I ruined the threads on the oil fill hole so I need to re-tap that or maybe go up a plug size.View attachment 145408View attachment 145409


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WOW. It is insane how much Tyler's fab skills have progressed. His new stuff is FAR better quality.
 
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