tubing for hyme joints

boltonbros

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i am going to be building some radius arms for my friend and we are going to use 1 1/4 hyme joints. what size tubing should i get to thread the hyme joints into? what does everyone else use? thanks

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Kritter

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1.75 inch tubing 5/16 wall is what you would use to make a bung for a -16 heim. The thread is 1.25-12. Buy 1.25 bungs for the arms and they will weld into 1.75 x .120 wall tubing. Check my link below for dimensions and other indo you might find useful.

Kris
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.barneysprecision.com/fabproducts.htm> Fab Parts</A>
 

Mike_HKmtrsprts

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threading the tubing is an unsafe way to do it the right way to do it is buy a threaded bung for the heim and insert that into like a piece of 1 3/4 tubing and weld it in, also drill 2 holes one on top and one on the side and once the bung is in weld up the holes which will melt into the bung for added strength its called rosetting but i might have spelled it wrong.. here is a pic with the heim jam nut and bumg all in one..Mike



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John Bitting

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I think by threading tube to place a heim in is the way to make a bung. But I agree you should just buy a premade bung and just weld it into your arm. Camburg sells them for probably the best price but also McKenzies should have them.
 

Kritter

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Re: tubing for hyme joints *DELETED*

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Jerry Zaiden

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Re: tubing for hyme joints *DELETED*

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BRBoudreaux

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Hijack time.......

As this thread is moving along, there's a parallel thread on another site regarding TREs and tie rods and there has been some mention of trouble using weld-in bungs with TREs cause the TRE is about an 1" longer than the bung and subsequent problems. Now on here, I'm reading different regarding the use of Heims.

So here's the $25,000 question........Does the use of weld-in bungs verses threading the tube itself depend on what is going into the threads?
 

JCA

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<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>

Hijack time.......

As this thread is moving along, there's a parallel thread on another site regarding TREs and tie rods and there has been some mention of trouble using weld-in bungs with TREs cause the TRE is about an 1" longer than the bung and subsequent problems. Now on here, I'm reading different regarding the use of Heims.

So here's the $25,000 question........Does the use of weld-in bungs verses threading the tube itself depend on what is going into the threads?

<hr></blockquote>

I have the same question. Mike can you explain why cutting threads into the tube is a bad thing? With the "bungs" there is always a thin area that makes a weak point. The threads are cut into the bung and the outside is machined down making it thin. I understand you are placing another tube over the machined down area but unless the tube slides over the entire area and a little each side of the area, it would seem to be weaker IMO.

J.C. Andrews
Andrews Racing
www.andrewsracing.com
 

1992f150

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Sorry but whats a TRE?
Ive heard people call it rosette weld, but to me I just call it a plug weld.
One thing i would add is to grind a V groove into the edge of the bung and tubing and leave a small gap to get more penetration.

Azusa: shame of the foothills
 

SDranger

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still not working try taking the space out of the file name or adding a "_ "thing

97 Ranger 4x4
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CRAIG_HALL

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Most people would use a bung much easier to do. Not all bungs are machined on the OD.
Nothing wrong with tapping a tube just use a large enough tube to leave at least .120-.150 material larger than the heim. 1-1/4" heim OD of bung should be at least 1.5" I think thats whats in mike's photo 1.5" OD with a shoulder up to 1.75" to match the tube for arm. Most fancy tie rods have an even wall thickness throughout its length,so you dont give the rod a spot to break . Everybody seen the Herbsts tie rods.
 

CRAIG_HALL

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tie rod
 

boltonbros

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when i get the bungs from camburg what size tubing fits over it? i know that you said it was 1 3/4 but is that the inside of the tubing or the outside? thanks.

when in doubt throttle it out
 

ntsqd

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As I posted over there, the only way you should even consider directly tapping a tube would be if the ID is such that you have to run the correct tap drill into the tube first. Otherwise you have no control over the the thread percentage.
If you use a tube with enough wall thickness so that you can use a tap drill more than likely it will weigh more than is needed. Using a bung is a good way to get the needed cross section w/o having the cross section where you don't need it.
The problem mentioned over there was movement btwn the TRE & the tube bung. I wonder if they were using a jam nut ? Some said they prefered the longer thread engagement from threading the tube. Much over 2 times the diameter is wasted effort and 1.5 is usually enough.

TS

I used swerve around my halucinations, now I drive right thru them.
 

CRAIG_HALL

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You make a very good point with the amount thread engagement, tie rod ends are usually long to allow adjustment over a larger range. heims have much shorter studs than tie rod ends, just enough for a jam nut and 1.25-1.5 times the diameter. All the bungs I've ever bought were at least half again longer than the heim,plenty long.
 

Kritter

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Quick to call somebodies question dumb on another thread and then turn around and ask this one! Tame it down a bit on insulting newcomers...there is a wealth of knowledge on this board and there are some jsut beginning. Everybody ahs to start somewhere.

1.75 x .120 wall tube is most common for a 1.25 heim.

JC: the min thickness on either a step or a standard bung is the same. They both have to fit in the same ID and they both have the same Tap size so it has to be the same min thickness.

Kris
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.barneysprecision.com/fabproducts.htm> Fab Parts</A>
 

AZmiik

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is a 1.25 rod end really needed for a raduis arm. The stud on a stock arm can't be more than 5/8ths. Or is this just a build it way to big so it doesn't weat out kinda thing.

Mike
 
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