uniball question

gary

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for any given uniball, is there more than one size of misalignment spacer (referring to bolt hole diameter), or is it pretty much a one to one ratio? i understand that you don't want to compromise spacer strength with a large bolt and less thickness in the spacer itself...
just wondering...
 

CRAIG_HALL

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I know for a 1" uniball (I.D.) Kartek makes both 3/4" and 5/8" in two different widths . I think 5/8" and 1/2" for the smaller one.
 

ACID_RAIN28

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They make all kinds. The duffco kits run a 1" ball and use a 9/16" reducer. I though there was only one kind till I got them and realized there are different sizes. I think they use the 9/16" because if you drill out the spindle to the next size there wont be enough meat on the spindle.
 

gary

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any web sites or phone numbers you can recommend? i tried baker precision's site, but was no help..(no time to call, maybe next week...)
 

FABRICATOR

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Metallurgy is a big part of the picture, especially if you are trying to get maximum angle and/or mounting in single shear.
 

gary

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basically, i'm looking to see if my current uniball spacers can be upped a bolt size or two to make adapting them to my new spindles easier...the old uniball bolt was the same size as the small end of the taper in the bj hole. a piece was welded to the top of the spindle with the same small size hole in it. bolt passed thru all this. (ATS front end) if possible, i'd like to go up a bolt size (or 2, not sure what's needed yet...) in the uniball, and then drill out bj hole in new spindle to same. there's lots of extra metal around the hole in the spindle.
i was hoping to find maybe a chart/parts list/catalog/??? that would list spacers available for different size uniballs...
none of it is off the truck yet, hopefully it will be in the next few days, so i can measure all the parts and figure out the plan of attack...
 

FABRICATOR

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Something I do sometimes is machine a counterbore into the top section of one or both spindle ball joint holes. Then make the ball spacer with a protrusion on both ends instead of just one. This way the spacer fits snugly into the ball and the spindle. The bolt is taken out of shear altogether. If you are modfying an OEM spindle, the original hole and bolt size is enlarged to about 75-100% of the tapered hole's major diameter. Even with a moderately sized bolt, the assembly ends up quite strong because the bolt is only used to clamp the parts together. It is especially useful for systems mounted in single shear and/or maximizing unibal angularity. It can be tricky machining the lower bolt boss of most spindles because the upper boss is in the way. The counterbore can be cut with a backward facing mill cutter or line bored.
 

curt

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Now thats a damn good idea, doing the counterbore is probably fairly cheap and it save the annoyance of constantly bending the bolts...Curt
 

hoeker

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i did this on my CORR stock truck and it worked VERY well! any time you can take a shear point out of the picture is a great idea.

my new Pro-2 has custom high misalignment spacers that use a 5/8" bolt in a 7/8" hole, this is non-typical and i was concerned about the thin wall section of the spacer, but it has prooven very dependable.

www.rosshoek.com
 

FABRICATOR

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I have not seen others use this method but would not doubt they are. If you have the room, a wall thickness of about .125” is ideal. The spacer footprint should be made as large as practical to help minimize bending of the assembly. Many combinations are possible. Again; proper design, fit, and metallurgy are important.
 
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